livinloud
Extreme
ok so 3 months ago i picked up a 2003 rx1 with 8200kms on it i had it sitting in the garage for a month or so i would start it up now and then and fein up on it. shortly after i bought a trailer and put in the trailer and left in in the driveway for a month, today i wanted to take it off the trailer to install some ski guides and a mat and when i would start it with the choke on it would run very rough and it would stumble. as i would try to take the choke off it would die. i looked in the gas tank and noticed that all the fuel was at the back of the tank it was very low especially since it was on a tilt from the trailer. so i went to the gas station put in 10L of 94 and tried to fire it up again. and no go it will only run with the choke open at 1/2 to 1/4 if i take the choke off it will die out right away. so i let it run for a few mins with the choke open at a 1/4 to let it warm up and then try to take the choke off still nothing it dies instantly. then for a short period of time it wouldnt fire at all then i got it to start by opening the choke half way and giving it gas. what the hell is up with this thing when i put it in the trailer a month ago it was fine it sat outside in an enclosed trailer for a month and now it wont run. what should i do please help me guys.
kinger
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You have to clean the carbs. Yamaha carbs have some of the smallest jets I have seen and they plug very easily. Do the job yourself and get used to it because you may have to do it at least once and sometimes twice a year. I like to run some seafoam in it on the tank before I know I'm not going to use it for while and it helps a lot keeping the gas treated and cleaning the carbs when you do run it a while later.
RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The carburetors are gummed up with the crap that was in the gas from sitting so long. You only started to see the symptoms of it when the fuel level got low because all the sentiment was at the bottom of the tank and as the fuel level gets low, more crap goes into the fuel line. Plus tilting it on a trailer moved some around too.
This new Ethanol based fuel has a tendency to grow algae very quickly and can clog up jets and injectors very quickly if you don't run a fuel stabilizer.
You will need to take off the carbs and clean the jets, I prefer to use carb cleaner and compressed air to clean the jets. Just make sure you put it back together correctly and the job is pretty easy. I now store my sled with no fuel in it at all.
Here's some pics of the carbs from the service manual:
Click thumbnails for larger images.
This new Ethanol based fuel has a tendency to grow algae very quickly and can clog up jets and injectors very quickly if you don't run a fuel stabilizer.
You will need to take off the carbs and clean the jets, I prefer to use carb cleaner and compressed air to clean the jets. Just make sure you put it back together correctly and the job is pretty easy. I now store my sled with no fuel in it at all.
Here's some pics of the carbs from the service manual:
Click thumbnails for larger images.
livinloud
Extreme
ok thanks guys i am going to attempt this tomorrow. i have never dealt with crbs before but i am a hands on guy and always do my own service work
livinloud
Extreme
is there a write up on here that i can follow. also i am not goign to need to tune the carb after i do this will i?
livinloud
Extreme
i have been getting mixed readings here do i have to sync the carbs after i am done or is this not nessesarry?
RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
It's not needed just because of a cleaning. It's good to do every so often whether it's yearly or even every other year but not necessary just because of cleaning the carbs. I checked mine when I first got it since it was used but it was so close to even across all four I just left it.
livinloud
Extreme
sweet thanks. so all i have to do is pull of the rack then take off the bottom piece from the carb pull of the main and pilot jets and spray carb cleaner down them?
RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Pretty much, it's been a while so I may miss something but basically you remove the airbox (rubber strap up front, 2 hose clamps under box, 4 screws on intake boot clamps on the carbs), then I took the throttle & choke linkage and the TORS switch off at the rack since the bracket comes off so I could remove the carb rack from the machine. When you remove the fuel and coolant lines, keep a few small bolts handy to put in the hose and block it.
Put the carbs on a bench, loosen the screw on the bowl to drain the fuel, turn upside down and remove float bowl. Using the diagrams above, you'll see the jets to remove (1 at a time) and clean. I use spray carb cleaner and compressed air. You have the Starter Jet, Needle Jet, Main Jet, Main Jet Holder and Pilot Jet to remove and clean. Also take the carb cleaner and compressed air (if available) and clean the various holes and passages in the carb. It's unnecessary to remove the top unless you want to make changes to the jet needle clip.
I also removed the half stripped phillips head screws and replaced them with hex-head bolts.
Put the carbs on a bench, loosen the screw on the bowl to drain the fuel, turn upside down and remove float bowl. Using the diagrams above, you'll see the jets to remove (1 at a time) and clean. I use spray carb cleaner and compressed air. You have the Starter Jet, Needle Jet, Main Jet, Main Jet Holder and Pilot Jet to remove and clean. Also take the carb cleaner and compressed air (if available) and clean the various holes and passages in the carb. It's unnecessary to remove the top unless you want to make changes to the jet needle clip.
I also removed the half stripped phillips head screws and replaced them with hex-head bolts.
Here is some info and there are a few other in the TY Tech section link on the top of every page here.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... 20pics.htm
Your pilot jets are plugged but you might as well clean them all. Be careful with the phillips screws as they can and will strip very easy if that happens just use a vise grip to take it out and replace with a stainless steel allen head bolt from a hardware store I changed all of mine. They are a 4mm X 0.7pitch X 10mm long stainless steel socket head. In my opinion this is a must do for these sleds.
To prevent this from happening again either drain all gas from bowls or fill your sled to the brim with aviation fuel in the spring and run the sled to get the Av gas in the carbs. Av gas still has lead in it and the green algae cant grow in lead. For extra insurance you could add some seafoam to the gas as well.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... 20pics.htm
Your pilot jets are plugged but you might as well clean them all. Be careful with the phillips screws as they can and will strip very easy if that happens just use a vise grip to take it out and replace with a stainless steel allen head bolt from a hardware store I changed all of mine. They are a 4mm X 0.7pitch X 10mm long stainless steel socket head. In my opinion this is a must do for these sleds.
To prevent this from happening again either drain all gas from bowls or fill your sled to the brim with aviation fuel in the spring and run the sled to get the Av gas in the carbs. Av gas still has lead in it and the green algae cant grow in lead. For extra insurance you could add some seafoam to the gas as well.
Fullback
Expert
The first couple of years with my 03 I tried storing it with stabil with no luck. I always had to clean the carbs especially the pilots. Since then I start it on the 1st of every month and run it until it comes up to temperature and the heat exchangers get nice and hot then shut it down. Since this procedure I've never had them gum up again.
livinloud
Extreme
sweet thanks for all the input guys, this is greatly appreciated. i am going to do this sometime this week and i will let you guys know how it went.
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we do the same as fullback and evry time we check, there was no point in pulling the carbs as they where spotless. the only ones we have to clean are the ones that have sat for a long time without running.
RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I also found Sta-bil not doing much with the new Ethanol enhanced fuel. I am thinking about trying their new Marine formula made for Ethanol fuel next Spring when I store it again. I don't like storing it dry and don't like starting it every month because of where it's stored.
RedRocket said:
You need to do the aviation gas thing with seafoam done end of problem.
