ELIMINAT0R
Newbie
I read in the tech section about changing the jackshaft bearing. They show the tapered locking collar threaded with a lock / jam nut. My sled only has a tapered collar without the threaded part or nut like shown. Should my collar be changed to this newer style, or left alone? Thanks Ron
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bluecanuck
Extreme
I just got the stuff to do this change as well. Someone else may have the specific explanation of what goes wrong without the collar update but I am guessing it moves around bad things happen and that is why the lock nut. The one I took out had 6300kms on it and looked fine. Good excuse to clean your chaincase up as well. I changed all my bearings while I was at it.
Parts:
993306-20650 bearing (not cheap 6206 with a special Yamaha taper 30.1mm/31.1mm)
8FA-17645-10 collar
8FA-17-642-00 nut
Two pieces the 03 did not have behind the secondary:
90201-25289 washer, plate
90209-25012 washer/spacer
(03 had two 90201-25526-00 washers instead)
Here is a diagram:
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... A=303&B=17
And here is a step by step:
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... change.htm
Parts:
993306-20650 bearing (not cheap 6206 with a special Yamaha taper 30.1mm/31.1mm)
8FA-17645-10 collar
8FA-17-642-00 nut
Two pieces the 03 did not have behind the secondary:
90201-25289 washer, plate
90209-25012 washer/spacer
(03 had two 90201-25526-00 washers instead)
Here is a diagram:
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... A=303&B=17
And here is a step by step:
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... change.htm
ELIMINAT0R
Newbie
Thanks for the info. Ron
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
The '03s did not have the locking collar. The '03s had several problems with it. In '04 they went to a locking collar. I would recommend making the upgrade.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
If the collar backs out, it usually ends in breaking the shaft - friction makes heat, heat weakens the shaft, and the secondary clutch falls off. There were a few of these reported back in the winter of 03.
Note: The washer change is redundant. The same 03 washers can be reused since the overall thickness is the same. In 03 they had 2 washers of the same thickness, on 04+ they had two washers of different thickness (one thicker, one thinner), but they added up to the same = no reason to change.
Note: The washer change is redundant. The same 03 washers can be reused since the overall thickness is the same. In 03 they had 2 washers of the same thickness, on 04+ they had two washers of different thickness (one thicker, one thinner), but they added up to the same = no reason to change.
KEITHFD
Extreme
Any idea how much the parts cost for this update? My collar came out yesterday. 
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Its something like $50.
KEITHFD
Extreme
I've been looking up parts online and so far I'm up around $150+!
KEITHFD
Extreme
I can't seem to find all the parts at one place online. Does anyone know of a good place to purchase OEM parts online??
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You need ONLY the collar and the nut.
Unless you want to replace the bearing at the same time, but the bearing is identical.
Unless you want to replace the bearing at the same time, but the bearing is identical.
KEITHFD
Extreme
I'm just going by the list above;
Parts:
993306-20650 bearing (not cheap 6206 with a special Yamaha taper 30.1mm/31.1mm)
8FA-17645-10 collar
8FA-17-642-00 nut
Two pieces the 03 did not have behind the secondary:
90201-25289 washer, plate
90209-25012 washer/spacer
I'm definately doing the bearing as well as the bearing on the other side too. That's over $200 not counting the belt! Should have been a recall!
Parts:
993306-20650 bearing (not cheap 6206 with a special Yamaha taper 30.1mm/31.1mm)
8FA-17645-10 collar
8FA-17-642-00 nut
Two pieces the 03 did not have behind the secondary:
90201-25289 washer, plate
90209-25012 washer/spacer
I'm definately doing the bearing as well as the bearing on the other side too. That's over $200 not counting the belt! Should have been a recall!
rxscot
Newbie
Not OEM, but there are complete Jackshaft and chaincase bearing kits available. I ordered from Royal Distributing. I think it was about 55$ for all the bearings and seals. The collar update is OEM only though.
Good luck.
Good luck.
yamahamaniac
Expert
Would I need to say, take the chaincase and everything apart to put this new collar into place? I had everything replaced new last year because one bearing blew to pieces and all the other were bad but I didn't update the collar. What I'm saying is can I just take off the secondary and replace the collar there or would I need to take the entire shaft out?
The collar/wedge slides on from the sec clutch end. The lock nut comes from the inside, so the shaft or the brg will have to be out.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
To get the collar's locking nut on the jackshaft, the bearing has to come out or the Jackshaft has to be removed from the Chaincase. The collar is put in from the PTO end of the jackshaft.
When you diagnose the PTO side Jackshaft Bearing problem:
If the collar failed to stay in place, the majority of the stress was put on the jackshaft and the two bearings in the chaincase. That is why we recommend inspecting the bearings in the chaincase and the jackshaft. If the PTO side collar did not fail and you are just updating it, then I would not go into the chaincase, for this repair.
If the PTO side Jackshaft bearing failed, the heat involved could have damaged the jackshaft. If the bearing failed, then we recommend taking the Jackshaft out for a visual inspection and TIR measurements. If the bearing failed, you are most-likely going to have to remove the jackshaft anyway to get the collar pressed or cut it off the jackshaft. Once the collar is off, you can get a good inspection. If you do TIR on the jackshaft before removing the collar, you may just be able to save some work in that if the jackshaft is out more than .002" TIR, then you are going to want a new jackshaft just to keep the vibrations down.
When you diagnose the PTO side Jackshaft Bearing problem:
If the collar failed to stay in place, the majority of the stress was put on the jackshaft and the two bearings in the chaincase. That is why we recommend inspecting the bearings in the chaincase and the jackshaft. If the PTO side collar did not fail and you are just updating it, then I would not go into the chaincase, for this repair.
If the PTO side Jackshaft bearing failed, the heat involved could have damaged the jackshaft. If the bearing failed, then we recommend taking the Jackshaft out for a visual inspection and TIR measurements. If the bearing failed, you are most-likely going to have to remove the jackshaft anyway to get the collar pressed or cut it off the jackshaft. Once the collar is off, you can get a good inspection. If you do TIR on the jackshaft before removing the collar, you may just be able to save some work in that if the jackshaft is out more than .002" TIR, then you are going to want a new jackshaft just to keep the vibrations down.
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