TopGunnSRX
Extreme
Is it any different in the manual it says 300 mi and give it all she has ive been hearing alot of people going up to like 1000 miles whats up with that?
vmaxjohn
Pro
I'd run it in the garage for a few heat cycles, like get it up to temp with a little revving fora few days before the season starts. Take it for a 50 miles ride, bring it home and change the oil and filter. next ride, hammer on it like you want it to run! The quicker those rings can seat, the more power/mpg/longevity you'll have! Don't do it slow and easy, or you'll miss out. 
TopGunnSRX
Extreme
It's been running for atleast id say 20 minutes a day Can't wait to get it on the snow or the grass so we can take it for a little ride Cant wait for snow!
Silver
Expert
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
What about running it in the garage ???
Maybe you have a new snowmobile and it's not quite winter yet, or a new bike and it's snowing...
The temptation to fire up a new vehicle in the garage just to actually
"hear" the new engine can be very strong.
This is the worst thing for a new engine, in fact, my advice is:
don't even start it up until you're ready to warm it up for the first ride.
The reason is that brand-new rings don't seat all the way around the 360 degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact shape of the cylinder and seal the combustion pressure.
Now, imagine if the engine is run in the garage. There is no load on the engine, so the rings are just going up and down "along for the ride". Only a small portion of their surface is actually contacting the cylinder wall. The ring area that does contact the cylinder wears down the roughness of the honing pattern on the cylinder walls. Once the roughness of the cylinder is gone, the rings stop wearing into the cylinder. If this happens before the entire ring has worn into the cylinder and sealed, you will have a slow engine no matter how hard it gets ridden after that point.
The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage, versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it's the difference between "zing-zing-zing" and "bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA"
During "zing-zing-zing" the rings don't get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during "bwaaaaaAAAAAA", the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode.
What about running it in the garage ???
Maybe you have a new snowmobile and it's not quite winter yet, or a new bike and it's snowing...
The temptation to fire up a new vehicle in the garage just to actually
"hear" the new engine can be very strong.
This is the worst thing for a new engine, in fact, my advice is:
don't even start it up until you're ready to warm it up for the first ride.
The reason is that brand-new rings don't seat all the way around the 360 degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact shape of the cylinder and seal the combustion pressure.
Now, imagine if the engine is run in the garage. There is no load on the engine, so the rings are just going up and down "along for the ride". Only a small portion of their surface is actually contacting the cylinder wall. The ring area that does contact the cylinder wears down the roughness of the honing pattern on the cylinder walls. Once the roughness of the cylinder is gone, the rings stop wearing into the cylinder. If this happens before the entire ring has worn into the cylinder and sealed, you will have a slow engine no matter how hard it gets ridden after that point.
The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage, versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it's the difference between "zing-zing-zing" and "bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA"
During "zing-zing-zing" the rings don't get loaded for more than a split second, whereas during "bwaaaaaAAAAAA", the engine is in 100% ring sealing mode.
TopGunnSRX
Extreme
The book recomends 15 20 minutes of idle with no load on the engine so im going with what the book says
I broke mine in by the book and too the letter and I have exactly 500miles.
I feel if there is any problem I have a better shot at help from the dealer/yamaha if it is broke in there way?????
I feel if there is any problem I have a better shot at help from the dealer/yamaha if it is broke in there way?????
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,335
- Location
- Menno, SD
- Website
- www.ulmerracing.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
do the 15-20 minute "no load" cycle 2 or 3 seperate times before the season starts and then once the first snow hits I would take it easy on it (no prolonged WO runs just vary the rpm alot) for the first 50 miles or so and then after that let it rip. Break it in in the rpm range it's going to normally operate at.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
After it has been run for 300 miles gently, you are past the zone when running the engine HARD for prolonged periods of time can cause DAMAGE.
When the engine is new, rings and cylinder are rough. This surface needs to be broken in gently. If you follow the article by "motoman", you will be overheating THE RINGS. Just because your engine isn't overheated (ie, it still runs and the temp light is NOT on), doesn't mean that the rings are cool. If your rings overheat, they will deform and wear unevenly. If that happens, you will need to rehone the cylinders and install new rings. Keep in mind that "motoman" is trying to sell his services, so it is in his best interest if your engine explodes.
Beyond 300 miles, you are no longer at risk of overheating your rings, so you can run hard. This doesn't mean that everything in the engine is perfectly smooth - if you look at your cylinders at 300 miles, it will not look smooth. Complete break-in can take thousands of miles on any engine.
When the engine is new, rings and cylinder are rough. This surface needs to be broken in gently. If you follow the article by "motoman", you will be overheating THE RINGS. Just because your engine isn't overheated (ie, it still runs and the temp light is NOT on), doesn't mean that the rings are cool. If your rings overheat, they will deform and wear unevenly. If that happens, you will need to rehone the cylinders and install new rings. Keep in mind that "motoman" is trying to sell his services, so it is in his best interest if your engine explodes.
Beyond 300 miles, you are no longer at risk of overheating your rings, so you can run hard. This doesn't mean that everything in the engine is perfectly smooth - if you look at your cylinders at 300 miles, it will not look smooth. Complete break-in can take thousands of miles on any engine.
monker
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I plan on breaking mine in by the book (or at least as close as I can) 8) . Who are you going to trust? A guy with a website who says he has credentials and that he knows what he's talking about? (I could make a website telling you what you want to hear and have it up by tomorrow) He may be right for all I know, but I'll stick by the company that built the engine I'm using. I'm sure yamaha errors on the safe side, but 300 miles isn't that far at all. Maybe 1-2 weekends for me.
TopGunnSRX
Extreme
agree with you monker 300 miles will take about aday because its a new sled and everyone will want to ride it and the next day we can rag on it a little bit more
itsallgood
Newbie
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2003
- Messages
- 1
I broke '03 in by the book and have had no issues. I gotta go with the manufacturer on this one. My motor got stronger as the season went longer - you're really gonna love that four stroke torque band! Happy trails.
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
Break In
LB, at what mileage would you change to Amsoil? I was told by my mechanic that he would not even think of putting in Synthetic util 5K. But I could twist his arm and go at 1K. What are your thoughts?
LB, at what mileage would you change to Amsoil? I was told by my mechanic that he would not even think of putting in Synthetic util 5K. But I could twist his arm and go at 1K. What are your thoughts?
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
well i dont know about you guys but i broke mine in on asphalt
it has zerro kms on it i did my 1st runs WOT and i had the best times at that.. and now it has 36kms on it and still kicks #*$&@ , im getting faster and faster as it gose ...
remeber its a 4 stroke so is your car... so do you drive your car like a pussy ?
or did you drive your 4x4 like a pansy ?
just drive it like you would anything elss
some of you must have street bikes or 4wheelers well its the same thing.
its all in how you want your sled to run
my srx's i would break them in on grass hold it to the bar till the red light came on and shut it down . did that 10 times
and my srx's to this day is still going strong and never did a motor job on them
just like driving a cr 500 or 250
you jump on it and go dont you ?
well same thing that is why we have warenty if somthing is going to break it will mostlikely be in the 1st 500 miles you drive , im not talking wearring out im talking brake like broken ...
so just drive it the way you will always drive it . if you drive like a pussy then drive it like one ... if you drive like i do then drive it like that ..
no sence in driving somthing for 150 miles the way others want you too . then your seld will never run the way you want it too
i bet 78% of you will break it in like the book says, and then this winter we will see post as well my seld is not as fast as hes or my seld is burning oil or my sled is not running right it dose this?
thats my 2 cents
take it for what is worth
it has zerro kms on it i did my 1st runs WOT and i had the best times at that.. and now it has 36kms on it and still kicks #*$&@ , im getting faster and faster as it gose ...
remeber its a 4 stroke so is your car... so do you drive your car like a pussy ?
or did you drive your 4x4 like a pansy ?
just drive it like you would anything elss
some of you must have street bikes or 4wheelers well its the same thing.
its all in how you want your sled to run
my srx's i would break them in on grass hold it to the bar till the red light came on and shut it down . did that 10 times
and my srx's to this day is still going strong and never did a motor job on them
just like driving a cr 500 or 250
you jump on it and go dont you ?
well same thing that is why we have warenty if somthing is going to break it will mostlikely be in the 1st 500 miles you drive , im not talking wearring out im talking brake like broken ...
so just drive it the way you will always drive it . if you drive like a pussy then drive it like one ... if you drive like i do then drive it like that ..
no sence in driving somthing for 150 miles the way others want you too . then your seld will never run the way you want it too
i bet 78% of you will break it in like the book says, and then this winter we will see post as well my seld is not as fast as hes or my seld is burning oil or my sled is not running right it dose this?
thats my 2 cents
take it for what is worth
kmer
Expert
SrXxTrEeM said:
Hey, how DID you arrive at 78%?
