akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
1st scenario 2000' elevation hard packed snow the sled rips 9000 rpm
2nd scenario 2000' elevation the same day powder 8000 max rpm.
What is eveyone's recommendation??
extrovert drivers, 20/40 gears, stock weights 14.5 mm rollers, silver secondary spring and 46 degree helix, i think the primary is a gwg.
i have beat my self up trying to get this thing where it should be and this seems to be best I have been able to get it.
thank you
2nd scenario 2000' elevation the same day powder 8000 max rpm.
What is eveyone's recommendation??
extrovert drivers, 20/40 gears, stock weights 14.5 mm rollers, silver secondary spring and 46 degree helix, i think the primary is a gwg.
i have beat my self up trying to get this thing where it should be and this seems to be best I have been able to get it.
thank you
Youngton
Veteran
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try taking a rivet out of your weights. It should not very much with elevation, especially that low.
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The weights are empty
zoomer
Extreme
Make sure to check the wheels near the rear tunnel drop bracket (the top ones). Depending on the temperatures, ice can form and lock-up the wheels after taking a break. My brother-in-law has seen this happen quite a few times after letting sled sit after riding.
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have noticed that but I am thinking I am battling a shift out that is too fast??
Turk
Tech Advisor
Stock primary weights are brutal for backshifting in deep snow. Go with aftermarket primary weights...all of em are better.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
AK Vector, I think all of our sleds will pull more RPM on the trail where there is less drag than in the deep stuff where there is much more drag.
You my friend need a $199 Shockwave adjustable helix. As your RPMs drop while climbing you take 2 minutes and just turn the adjustment ring in (decreasing your helix angle) until you see the RPMs you are looking for. The one trick some people miss is lightening your clutch weights enough so you have more ajustablity with the Shockwave.
One other area may be your gearing is a bit too high for the conditions in which you are climbing? It is pretty common to be told that if you are losing RPM while climbing your gearing is too high.
Frosty
You my friend need a $199 Shockwave adjustable helix. As your RPMs drop while climbing you take 2 minutes and just turn the adjustment ring in (decreasing your helix angle) until you see the RPMs you are looking for. The one trick some people miss is lightening your clutch weights enough so you have more ajustablity with the Shockwave.
One other area may be your gearing is a bit too high for the conditions in which you are climbing? It is pretty common to be told that if you are losing RPM while climbing your gearing is too high.
Frosty
Turk said:
I agree.I had my vectore set up with super tips at 900ft elebation and would go up to 12,000 ft and all I would change was the spring and helix and ran flawless no rpm difference between hard pack and powder at high elevation.The helix is a allittle steep for mtn riding.
