06 apex getting attaked

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satan660

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ok i have 06 apex... running 24-38 gears, dalton 51-43 helix with white yamaha spring on 3-2... the thing pulls like mad for 1500 feet then falls right on its face i am running against stock attaks.. 3 of my buddies have them i pull the attaks off the line 3-4 length and hold it for 1000- 1500 then they pull by and some times they get me by 3-4 length in 2000 feet :o| i thought the attak would get me off the line and my apex would run it down on the top :o| any info would be realy helpful thanks
 
What do you want to know? That is the way they seem to be. I've been telling everyone all along the Attak has it all over the Apex. They must be letting you take off first if your getting the jump on them. The Attak will drive right around a Apex. It has to be a traction and gearing thing. Gear your Apex down to a 23 top and then give it a go. Report back with your findings.
 
attack

well i did try23-38 but i had 144 studs, down the middle it seamed worse
so i pulled out the studs thinking the studs where slowing me down... then it went in for new chain case cover... and i got the dealer to gear it back to stock 24-38... maybe i should try it, without the studs and. 23-38 gears it just dont make sense to me
 
23/38 is what works...its been proven by many on here time and time again...YES you need traction...

If you want to DRAG race attacks,you sure had better have enough studs....if you want the best traction use chisels.

not sure why you bought a Dalton 51/43,as that is same as STOCK helix angle...also,not sure why you would wrap it to 50 degrees,this is NOT enough.Stock is 60 and I wrap mine to 70 with a Dalton RED spring....so I would at least wrap it to 60.

You may very well be spinning the belt with such low backpressure at 50.

the Gearing seems to be the real thing here...and for drags you dont even need to worry about machining.

Dan
 
no way in hell are u holeshottin an attack if your not studded,they must be givin u a head start.my rtx is geared to 23 top and thats all i have done,no clutching and no studds....i race my bro's attack which is studded and clucthed and u are not holeshottin it..period!!!!........being so late in the year i changed the gear but have done nothing else...
 
23/38

machzed said:
23/38 is what works...its been proven by many on here time and time again...YES you need traction...

If you want to DRAG race attacks,you sure had better have enough studs....if you want the best traction use chisels.

not sure why you bought a Dalton 51/43,as that is same as STOCK helix angle...also,not sure why you would wrap it to 50 degrees,this is NOT enough.Stock is 60 and I wrap mine to 70 with a Dalton RED spring....so I would at least wrap it to 60.

You may very well be spinning the belt with such low backpressure at 50.

the Gearing seems to be the real thing here...and for drags you dont even need to worry about machining.

Dan
Click to expand...
well traction does not seem to be a problem my hole shot is good i pull away off the line... its in the top end it just stops pulling... the reason i am wrapping it at 50 degrees, it is worse at 60... trying to get rpm down... do not think clutches are spinning the belt their not hot at all... and the dalton helix well i had it so i thought i should run it... it seems to me that it pulls hard at 10,000 rpm to 10,500 any more then that it stops pulling not sure how to keep the rpm down maybe lower primary spring? thanks
 
RED800 said:
no way in hell are u holeshottin an attack if your not studded,they must be givin u a head start.my rtx is geared to 23 top and thats all i have done,no clutching and no studds....i race my bro's attack which is studded and clucthed and u are not holeshottin it..period!!!!........being so late in the year i changed the gear but have done nothing else...
Click to expand...
these attacks are stock, and if i don,t get it off the line... in the first 100 to 200 feet i can pass it but then they get me on top this is no bull!!!!
 
i will admit that satan pulls good off the line. i would say that my attack seems to be the quicker of the three. he comes out of the hole with me to about 660 most of the times. sometimes further and sometimes shorter just seems the attack has a stronger upper mid.
 
Ride heights are the same between the two. The clutching and gearing are only slightly different. They both make the same power. It goes against all principals but the long track accelerates faster and will not give up any MPH. I have seen it in all cases I have run up against. Does not appear to be an isolated thing. Long track will just plain out run the short track by 6-7 lengths. I don't know what else to say. I run all long tracks now. Especially with the turbos. Mike Knapp#17
 
Re: 23/38

satan660 said:
way off the line... its in the top end it just stops pulling... the reason i am wrapping it at 50 degrees, it is worse at 60... trying to get rpm down... do not think clutches are spinning the belt their not hot at all... and the dalton helix well i had it so i thought i should run it... it seems to me that it pulls hard at 10,000 rpm to 10,500 any more then that it stops pulling not sure how to keep the rpm down maybe lower primary spring? thanks
Click to expand...

you are way off on the rpms...everytime ive done testing its proved to me that you need to get it to rpm to at least 10,500 initially and climb to 10,700 to 11...depending on your exact setup....

the STOCK weights and secondary spring are setup to hit about 10,200 to 10,400ish(depending on your sled) then creep upward on long hauls on harpack...most clutch kits will change this to where it hits hard right outa the hole...this is why i personally think the stock setups are slow in bottom and mid.

you NEVER want to try to adjust RPMS with your secondary pressure(wind)...you want to adjust peak rpms with your rivet weights.

i have no problems running anything here locally...the way your sled is revving i can see why its getting beatup...YES the attacks sure seem to have it all over the shortys...but the ONLY reason that makes any sense is the 23 gearing..

If you want her to run..install the 23 gear,we KNOW this works well...you NEED studs if you want to drag race ANYONE...96 studs will not hurt you ontop end...

you are coming out of the hole good ONLY due to the better transfer of the shorty...but you quickly get passed,cause youre not revving right...if you are even off by 100 rpms,that can be the difference between winning or losing a drag by several lengths.

is all else stock parts?..how many miles on sled?...they need at least 250 before they start to rpm properly...

try this...

-install the STOCK helix(to test if it is different then dalton)
-wind the white spring to 60 at least,or 70
-install the 23 gear

then see what RPMS do from start to top end...

Dan
 
ATTAKED

WELL WENT OUT TONIGHT PUT 23GEAR IN... DALTON HELIX 51/43 WHITE YAMAHA SECONDARY SPRING 3-3 WITH BLUE WHITE BLUE PRIMARY SPRING
OFF THE LINE RPM AT 10200 AND AT THE END OF 2000 FEET ITS AT 10900 AND THE ATTAK IS ABOUT 4-5 LENGTH AHEAD OF ME :o|
I GUESS ITS NOT RUNNING THAT BAD IT PULLS HARD JUST NOT HARD ENOUGH FOR ME
 
You have to realize that there are other things to consider. Make sure that your clutches are aligned properly, track not too tight, etc. There are a LOT of places where you can lose a LOT of speed. Ski alignment? It the skis are way out of whack, then when they come back down on the snow, they will create a lot of drag.
 
LazyBastard said:
You have to realize that there are other things to consider. Make sure that your clutches are aligned properly, track not too tight, etc. There are a LOT of places where you can lose a LOT of speed. Ski alignment? It the skis are way out of whack, then when they come back down on the snow, they will create a lot of drag.
Click to expand...

LB is right on the money.
 
Re: ATTAKED

satan660 said:
WELL WENT OUT TONIGHT PUT 23GEAR IN... DALTON HELIX 51/43 WHITE YAMAHA SECONDARY SPRING 3-3 WITH BLUE WHITE BLUE PRIMARY SPRING
OFF THE LINE RPM AT 10200 AND AT THE END OF 2000 FEET ITS AT 10900 AND THE ATTAK IS ABOUT 4-5 LENGTH AHEAD OF ME :o|
I GUESS ITS NOT RUNNING THAT BAD IT PULLS HARD JUST NOT HARD ENOUGH FOR ME
Click to expand...

this is the classic RPMS pattern for stock flyweights...they hit low then rpm upward at top end....yammie designed them this way..

IMO those stock weights will never be real fast in bottom and mid....I know it doesnt answer the question about attack beating you though.

this is why i like the dalton DPYRs...they hit hard at 10,600 or so,then head up near 10,900 or so ontop..the difference in midrange is incredible...hard to beat a sled with those.

I know no attack or mach for that matter can get by me here....and Im pretty sure machs are alot faster then most attacks...at least here they are..

Dale at Dalton spent alot of time engineering the DPYRs..very hard to beat these weights...

Dan
 
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