did some testing today!

[POWERPACK]

Thats good to know. I'm heading to a lake next weekend that they race about 2000 feet, in pretty much loose snow, or at least it turns to that in a short time of raceing.[/quote]

remember i tested on hardpacked snow! and if you want to change to 22, youll need a 68 chain.. good luck racing!

 

[1xr]

Thats good to know. I'm heading to a lake next weekend that they race about 2000 feet, in pretty much loose snow, or at least it turns to that in a short time of raceing.

remember i tested on hardpacked snow! and if you want to change to 22, youll need a 68 chain.. good luck racing![/quote]

I have all kinds of gears and chains a 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 and a 41. I have the 22 in now. The 23 seems to be worn more than I like, so I had to change it. I bought all the gears except the 24 from Wahl bros, it seems the 21 22 23 are made very soft and wear quickly.

 

[hondo]

Recently put a 22 gear, shorter chain, with an over drive clutch in my brothers 06 Attak.

Also use a Dayco belt for the lake. They are a softer compound than the Yamaha belts. The Dayco belts if run too much, can get too hot. You need to space your runs.

We ran out of room in the area of the lake we were running, but saw 125 on the speedo which is actually 111 -112 actual mph.

We are anticipating 4 to 5 mph more in good conditions next year.

I realize there is a difference between Apex 121" and Attak 136".

The 22 hooks, and pulls all the way through. The key is the overdrive clutch.

For what it's worth. The 22 with the combination works real well.

 

[kviper]

1xr the smaller gear's will wear quicker because you are wraping the chain much tighter on the smaller gear and they need to run more rev to do the same job. you will put more hp to the groung with a 23/40 (1.73) than 22/38 (1.72) A 22/38 not only has to make a tighter curve around the gear but also has more curve around the tensioner. A 23/40 run's all together straighter, Less heat, Less resistance. I know the 40 bottom gear is not cheap but these chain cases get very hot when running high speed's for long distances. Also if you run out of gear these motor's will pull to the rev limiter (11,200) if cond's permit it. I am runing the 23/38 but have thought about going 23/40 many times. 99% of the cond's we ride in i would not use all of the 23/40 so i may as well have more mid range and top end in those condition's. kviper

 

[black700]

has anyone used a 22top gear in an attak without an over drive clutch

 

[snowbeast]

from useing the chart for speeds with gears. A 22 gear will go 107.88 mph, without a cut clutch at 10700. 190 kms is 118.75, and the spedos are 12% high. So 190 kms is about 106 real mph. Very close to useing up the gear.

Did you guys not read the post mach69 and myself posted about gps speeds with the stock 22 top gear that came on our 07 rtxer sleds? we have both ran 112-113 gps speeds,and you two are trying to say,they wont run any faster than what the charts say at 1:1 ratio,so that throws the ratio chart out the window,dont you think!! And the other day we ran 110 gps on crappy warm wet plus some crusty snow conditions,this gear with the 38 bottom just plain works on this 07 rtx,only differance is i put my supertips back in and got the rpms down to 10,800 instead of the stock weights,that had it reving to 11,200 rpms,to much IMO!! Now has anyone tried the new wider ultimax carlisie belts maybe the xs802???

 

[hondo]

Pete,

This is what my brother is using.

Formerly Dayco, the company is now Carlisle:

Ultimax-3

The belt number is 1384432U3.

Danny up at Roger's machined both sides of the primary and secondary to provide a slight overdrive (shift ratio). My brothers sled now pulls hard all the way through. Right now got 111ish, 112 mph.

Looking at between 10,500 - 10,800 rpms.

We haven't been able to test in good conditions but forecast 115-117 mph.

Can someone explain to me why no one likes the better shift ratio the overdrive provides???

Hope this helps,

 

[The Tweaker]

Might be because of what Mike Knapp posted about that on another thread...

 

[fourload]

You loose efficiency anytime you go into overdrive. To get the the highest top end you need as much hp to the track as possible. Overdrive could cut your efficiency down by at least 3percent. On a machine like the Apex that can track dyno near 80hp that would be a 2.4 hp loss or more. The contact patch for the belt on the secondary becomes smaller in overdrive and the secondary,jackshaft and rotor also spin faster in overdrive. If we have 10 percent overdrive and the clutches spin at 8500 when we are at 1 to 1 we will now have a secondary clutch and all the other heavy hardware spinning at 9350. It takes power away to do this.

 

[Doug]

Maybe it's already been mentioned, but also in OD, the belt speed in feet per minute, or whatever units you want to use, goes wayup. This also robs hp.

 

[hondo]

Thanks for the reply's.

I need to go back to my mechanic, and find out why it's working not only on my brother's Attak, but other's in Northern Maine that have had this work done.

Yamaha's that have had this work done, pull like a freight train.

 

[ReX]

I too am 100% happy with the 22/38 gearing in my RTX.

For almost all trail conditions and all typical riding IMO its better than the 24/38 the regular Apex came with.

Some of the advantages are:

- Very snappy throttle response due to the easier back shifting/lower gears.

- Increased rpms during shift out, getting the stock clutching closer to ideal than the 24/38 does (although at high speeds the rpms are too high - 11,000+)

- Better acceleration (stock clutching) all the way to high speeds (100 mph on the speedo at least).

- Easier on the belt when starting from a stop and when driving slowly.

- Easier to manipulate the sled very slowly (such as when loading on a trailer or parking it in my garage).

- Easier to get the sled moving when the skis are grabbing a lot (like the muddy edge of a road crossing).

- Overall this makes the sled feel more peppy and fun to ride with incredible corner to corner zip.

Top speed in absolutely ideal ice conditions is down I'm sure, but who rides in these conditions (unless you're a dedicated lake racer)? I had mine up to 124-125mph on the speedometer a couple of times and thats more than fast enough for me. Note my drivetrain is absolutely 100% stock so there is only the stock overdrive (probably 5% range). Even at 125mph if I eased off very slightly on the throttle the rpms would immediately drop so there was still more overdrive that wasn't being used. Also if the ground was a little bumpier, the rpms would also come down at that speed due to the stick slip causing the clutching to shift up further.

My sled did have a little more chaincase noise when decelerating or braking than the Apex ER and 06 RTX, but this is the only negative I noticed (I also don't know if this is actually because of the 22/38 gearing or not). Everything else is a bonus for all trail riders and all aggressive riders.

 

[snowbeast]

Thanks for the reply's.

I need to go back to my mechanic, and find out why it's working not only on my brother's Attak, but other's in Northern Maine that have had this work done.

Yamaha's that have had this work done, pull like a freight train.

Bob have your brother try the ultimax xs811 its a cat belt,a little longer and wider,when i get one and have some test time i will share it,as i have two primary clutches to test with on back to back runs,one overdriven and one stock,and of course my secondary has been modified for more shift,my 03 rx1 had O.D. clutching with team secondary clutching and it would run 117 gps alot of times,not just once... I agree sometimes OD works and other times it just does not work,i do find that on pure ice say 2500-3000 ft runs the OD works better,in the woods driving hard thru lots od soft snow,i dont use it,as it is harder on belts.

 

[hondo]

Thanks Pete,

I'm going to call him tonight.

My brother is going to Willard Mountain, NY tomorrow night. They are having 660' drags under the lights.

The first 100 feet is flat, and then you transition uphill, on a groomed surface.

He loves this set up. For him it works. I'll tell him about the xs811 belt.

Thought you were going to Patten? Ha, maybe you are there!

Thanks again,

 

[BlueByYou2000]

1xr the smaller gear's will wear quicker because you are wraping the chain much tighter on the smaller gear and they need to run more rev to do the same job. you will put more hp to the groung with a 23/40 (1.73) than 22/38 (1.72) A 22/38 not only has to make a tighter curve around the gear but also has more curve around the tensioner. A 23/40 run's all together straighter, Less heat, Less resistance. I know the 40 bottom gear is not cheap but these chain cases get very hot when running high speed's for long distances. Also if you run out of gear these motor's will pull to the rev limiter (11,200) if cond's permit it. I am runing the 23/38 but have thought about going 23/40 many times. 99% of the cond's we ride in i would not use all of the 23/40 so i may as well have more mid range and top end in those condition's. kviper

I would agree with this. Plus the stock chain should work (70L)