stevewithOCD
Yamaha, Make me Come Back
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stevewithOCD
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stevewithOCD
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stevewithOCD
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Since this is an ongoing thing, i would check all of these.
Don't forget to check those settings in the dash.
Don't forget to check those settings in the dash.
RobX-1
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Thanks Steve for posting those pages as I now see where this process is documented in the service manual I have. The one I have has sections for different models and it wasn't until the last section for RX10RTL/RL/RTRL/GTL/ML, RXW10L that documented the sync process using the air bypass screws; the preceding sections documented the sync process as using the screws in between the carbs.
Am still curious where 74Nitro obtained his pages from as I don't see anything like that in the service manual I have.
Am still curious where 74Nitro obtained his pages from as I don't see anything like that in the service manual I have.
seabeeman
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Thank you for all the help so far...I'm still not out of the woods on this one.
I've got a series of issues I'm chasing around but I'll wait until I get a new set of plugs in it this week and check the dash settings before I really start chasing my tail. I synced the throttle bodies and ended up turning the other screws in a fair amount to match 1.
The sled is backfiring out the intake occasionally now. I'm not real familiar with the idle air circuit on these, but that would normally make me think that I put the screws in too far (even if it did sync them) and now I'm running lean.
Is there a proper adjustment for the throttle linkage stop that is between 3 and 4 under the throttle bodies? My brain was in carburetor mode and I adjusted that to open the butterflies a bit, thinking that was how you increased the idle. I can't find this thing mentioned anywhere and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment for it.
I've got a series of issues I'm chasing around but I'll wait until I get a new set of plugs in it this week and check the dash settings before I really start chasing my tail. I synced the throttle bodies and ended up turning the other screws in a fair amount to match 1.
The sled is backfiring out the intake occasionally now. I'm not real familiar with the idle air circuit on these, but that would normally make me think that I put the screws in too far (even if it did sync them) and now I'm running lean.
Is there a proper adjustment for the throttle linkage stop that is between 3 and 4 under the throttle bodies? My brain was in carburetor mode and I adjusted that to open the butterflies a bit, thinking that was how you increased the idle. I can't find this thing mentioned anywhere and there doesn't seem to be any adjustment for it.
Last edited:
seabeeman
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Also, is there an starting point for the idle adjusting screw on the left side? I'm sure I have something off in the process before I need to mess with this, but I went from all the way in to all the way out to no effect.
CaptCaper
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- 2016 RS Vector XTX 1.25 Lug wifes..2013 RS Vector LTX.. 2003 600 VMax Past Machines 3-2007 Attaks 1-2010 Vector LTX.. sorry no Stinkdoos or poo's cats.
I hope your valves are't bad or something more serious then adjustments.
seabeeman
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I ended up getting it pretty much dialed in:
- I set the throttle linkage stop between the throttle bodies. Spec in the manual via the DI diagnostics (this is the first reading) had it at 15-19, I believe for closed. I ended up having it set right at the high end of 18. Anything less and it would idle down to less than 800 and die. Anything more and it would throttle up. It's a VERY sensitive adjustment but have the DI screen up helped.
- New plugs. I don't think it needed them but it's cheap insurance. There were some dual prong iridium type in there, now it is just the stock NGK coppers.
- New battery. Went with a 20 series AGM from O'reilly and it fit perfectly without the foam spacer.
- I spent several hours fiddling with the C0 adjustments, and ended up at -50!
- The black idle adjustment knob still doesn't do anything.
The idle RPM's are up where they should be. Anything leaner and it idled too high, especially when cold. Anything richer (less negative) and it really struggled to stay running at idle when warm. Anything richer than -15 resulted in popping out the intake on quick throttle blips. We've had it out for a few rides since and it runs great, hasn't died coming up to a single stop, and hasn't quit idling on us yet.
Keep in mind that when I balanced the throttle bodies, all 3 screws had to go in significantly, which I'm assuming restricts airflow. Since I pulled a bunch of air out of the idle circuit, it would make sense that I had to lean the mix out to compensate...unless I am not understanding part of the system properly.
- I set the throttle linkage stop between the throttle bodies. Spec in the manual via the DI diagnostics (this is the first reading) had it at 15-19, I believe for closed. I ended up having it set right at the high end of 18. Anything less and it would idle down to less than 800 and die. Anything more and it would throttle up. It's a VERY sensitive adjustment but have the DI screen up helped.
- New plugs. I don't think it needed them but it's cheap insurance. There were some dual prong iridium type in there, now it is just the stock NGK coppers.
- New battery. Went with a 20 series AGM from O'reilly and it fit perfectly without the foam spacer.
- I spent several hours fiddling with the C0 adjustments, and ended up at -50!
- The black idle adjustment knob still doesn't do anything.
The idle RPM's are up where they should be. Anything leaner and it idled too high, especially when cold. Anything richer (less negative) and it really struggled to stay running at idle when warm. Anything richer than -15 resulted in popping out the intake on quick throttle blips. We've had it out for a few rides since and it runs great, hasn't died coming up to a single stop, and hasn't quit idling on us yet.
Keep in mind that when I balanced the throttle bodies, all 3 screws had to go in significantly, which I'm assuming restricts airflow. Since I pulled a bunch of air out of the idle circuit, it would make sense that I had to lean the mix out to compensate...unless I am not understanding part of the system properly.
nhsrx701
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Hi, I just logged in to reply to this... I can't even remember the last time I logged in. Your exhaust valve are too tight. I own two 2006 Attaks with high miles and what would be a long story about exhaust valves. Trust me Trust me Trust me.. I have been down this road. It is the exhaust valves. The 25k the book says for service is #*$&@. It should have said 8 to 10k Maybe the 2006 were put together too tight.. I don't know. The stalling and bad idle...= exhaust valve lash problems... Your attempts are same attempts I made. I refused to believe it.. in the end they were too tight. Pull the valve cover and check... they are going to be tight. My sleds started with the same symptoms at the same mileage.
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seabeeman
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Hi, I just logged in to reply to this... I can't even remember the last time I logged in. Your exhaust valve are too tight. I own two 2006 Attaks with high miles and what would be a long story about exhaust valves. Trust me Trust me Trust me.. I have been down this road. It is the exhaust valves. The 25k the book says for service is #*$&@. It should have said 8 to 10k Maybe the 2006 were put together too tight.. I don't know. The stalling and bad idle...= exhaust valve lash problems... Your attempts are same attempts I made. I refused to believe it.. in the end they were too tight. Pull the valve cover and check... they are going to be tight. My sleds started with the same symptoms at the same mileage.
Thank you for the input, I suspect that is the issue and your experience with that confirms my suspicion. I'll be leaving the sled out of the trailer this spring and that will be an off season project. I also have an 08 but it seems the issue is worse in the 06's than other years.
I have the shop manual but is there anything to watch out for when doing this, or any tutorials you found particularly helpful?
stevewithOCD
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ULMER will sell you shim pieces so you don't have to buy whole Shim Kit
nhsrx701
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TTT To The Top.. just incase someone has a stalling /hard starting Yamaha apex. Check the valve clearance.... this also goes for the 3 bangers vector and vipers.... I would check those at 12 - 14k. Keep in mind.. the type of mileage is going to be relevant to when you need to check them. Hard mileage (high rpm mileage) is going to need service earlier..
stevewithOCD
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Some guys just won't give in to this.
They will try everything else in the book when 12,000 miles or so JUST DO IT!!!!
They will try everything else in the book when 12,000 miles or so JUST DO IT!!!!
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