mr.pitstop
Expert
I have been reading all the posts on common issues with the apexs. Mine has 3200 miles on it now and Im wondering what I should do over summer to make sure its set for next season.
I have sent my suspension to half baked for the beef up kit and powder coat so thats taken care of. I picked up a new set of exhaust donuts to install sometime over summer so I don't have to worry about them going on me next season. I have greased the clutch side jackshaft and driveshaft bearings. I've installed a yamaheater. Ive greased all the zerks I could find and I will change the motor and chain case oil soon. What else should I be doing over summer to make sure the sled is in tip top shape for next season?? Thanks...
I have sent my suspension to half baked for the beef up kit and powder coat so thats taken care of. I picked up a new set of exhaust donuts to install sometime over summer so I don't have to worry about them going on me next season. I have greased the clutch side jackshaft and driveshaft bearings. I've installed a yamaheater. Ive greased all the zerks I could find and I will change the motor and chain case oil soon. What else should I be doing over summer to make sure the sled is in tip top shape for next season?? Thanks...
APEX 06
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Put new bushings in the A-Arms, rebuild your clutch, check all rivets.
Nick1945
TY 4 Stroke Master
Check all your wheels and bearings in the skid.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
Nick1945 said:
X2, my Vector only has 3,400 km's(2100 miles) and I need to replace 9 of the wheels as the bearings are shot.
At this point I am not sure what way to go? Get the new(er) Yamaha wheels with replacable bearings or go to aftermarket ones like in Rocker Dan's wheel replacement post?
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
APEX 06 said:
Rebuild the clutch at 3200 miles? I didn't have mine rebuilt until 12,000 miles. Granted, I should have got it done at 10,000 as the shoe ramps were shot but 3200 seems a little too soon to me...but just my opinion...
As far as the stock idler wheels, I've had good luck with taking the seals off, cleaning out the crap in there and then regreasing. 3 of mine have over 14,000 miles on them. I am slowly replacing them with the Yamaha ones with replaceable bearings.
Swamp Monster
Newbie
The stock wheels in '06 had a lot to be desired. The rubber seperated from the wheel easily, and the bearings didn't last that long. I found out the hard way (sliced track), but the new ones at least have replaceable bearings. On my '06 RTX, I went with the Vector style wheels, and they look good (p/n SMA-8FP38-01-??, and SMA-8FP38-02-??). The bearings on top of the skid are already replaceable (6205), as well as the inside wheel on the rear axle (6004). With 3,200 miles on it, I wouldn't risk it another season.
Irv
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Budweiser said:
Didn't realize you could do this with the stock wheels, didn't even think it was possible with the non-replaceable bearing wheels?
nytroD
Pro
you should clean/inspect the clutches. they wont need rebuilding at 3200miles.
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Didn't realize you could do this with the stock wheels, didn't even think it was possible with the non-replaceable bearing wheels?
You can do this to all bearings that have a rubber type seal... the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings are the same... I've drilled the seals with a very small bit to allow a "needle" tip on the grease gun to get in there so i can routinely grease without taking anything apart...
You can do this to all bearings that have a rubber type seal... the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings are the same... I've drilled the seals with a very small bit to allow a "needle" tip on the grease gun to get in there so i can routinely grease without taking anything apart...
APEX 06
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nytroD said:
Sorry my bad I'm not talking a full rebuild but bushing, springs and so on.
Irv
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sherlock29 said:
Never heard of that one before?
Would drilling a small hole not defeat the seals purpose? Ever find any water/grit in there?
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
have found lots of water/bad grease... but "not" from the pin hole in the seal... you drill the inside of the seal. ie; behind secondary and i put a small hole right on the edge of the metal retaining collar than holds driveshaft bearing...Irv said:
this is more common than you think... the back (or outer) side of the bearing is subjected to snow/water/ice... and no matter how good your seal is stuff still gets in... so why not make it so that you can put grease in??!!! there are a few posts on here where people have done this... Personally i'd like to see a bearing retainer that has a zerk fitting on it so you can actually grease these bearings... but... no luck... so until they come out with one, my seals will be drilled and greased routinely without having to pull seals out and take things apart.
and to clarify... this should only be done with driveshaft/jackshaft... i've gone with doo wheels, so when idlers go back i just chuck the bearing and replace..
Irv
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I've done the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings, thought you were referring to the idlers like I was talking about?sherlock29 said:
I found the seals came out easy on those 2 locations but not so much with the idlers.
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Sorry my bad... not the idlers.... for them its not even worth it.. when you can get bulk bearings for cheep, its just a yearly routine to change them out.
Yes the jack/driveshaft seals do come out easy.. but its even easier when they dont have to come out at all. ;-)
Yes the jack/driveshaft seals do come out easy.. but its even easier when they dont have to come out at all. ;-)
mr.pitstop
Expert
Ok I got some new wheels for the suspension. The smaller idler wheels that I got for the 4 front outside are different looking than the originals but were much cheaper. I paid $25 each for the 4 of them, I had to remove a plastic bushing that was inside the bearing so it would fit but once that plastic bushing was out the wheels bolted right on perfect and appear to be the same diameter. They also have replaceable bearings. These are yamaha wheels but look somewhat different than what I had.. Should they be ok??
Also, I told them I didn't need the specific yamaha wheels with the design on them for the back. They sent me wheels that are yamaha wheels but are all black, when I got the suspension out and started to compare, they are the same wheel that is used on the top. Again its the same diameter as the original rear wheels and has a replaceable bearing. It bolts right up on the rear axle, I cant think of any reason it wouldn't be ok, it just dosn't have the gray design on the outside and the bearings are replaceable.
Also, I told them I didn't need the specific yamaha wheels with the design on them for the back. They sent me wheels that are yamaha wheels but are all black, when I got the suspension out and started to compare, they are the same wheel that is used on the top. Again its the same diameter as the original rear wheels and has a replaceable bearing. It bolts right up on the rear axle, I cant think of any reason it wouldn't be ok, it just dosn't have the gray design on the outside and the bearings are replaceable.
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