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'07 APEX FINALY LET ME DOWN...broke my driveshaft! pics !

That is the same spot they all breaking, according to the postings. I have extrovert drivers on my Attak, I wonder if that may help by moving the highly stressed drive area that keeps breaking right next to that driver inboard. Has anyone with extrovert drivers broken a shaft?
 

that is exactly were Familymans broke a week and a half ago. He went to extros too to try and help it. Maxdlx
 
steering

Will your there if your steering is loose you could shim the steering block plastic bushing.
 
Does changing the secondary bearing prevent this, or when it goes it goes?
 
That's exactly where mine broke.

My bearing are regreased every season and have been replaced (even though after cleaning they spin easily). Driveshaft still broke.
 
Re: shaft

helmic said:
If you change the secondary side drive bearing every 4000miles you wont have any problem with the shaft. My buddy has 20000miles on his 05 RX1 turbo and never chance the shaft or the drive chain.

I disagree. Isn't the cause of a drive shaft failure 90% of the time. But good maintenance procedure thats for sure.

My broken shaft had signs of failure from factory, blacken steel where it broke at 3300 miles.

Update your shaft to antiratchets, if you dont have all windows open, drill or cut them out and run them. This way you can run your track a little looser after its broke in. Replace the bearing on the speedo sign atleast. Look over all washers in the chain case. Check chain case for cracks. Keep in mind if you over tighten your track to keep it from ratcheting puts alot of stress on that shaft, making it flex and will snap them.

Helpful reminder, remove the rear portion of the chain case, this will make taking the shaft out easier along with putting it back in. Never overtighten your chain, always torque bolts per spec. Good Luck.
 
Seems to happen mostly on long tracks, all seem to break in the exact same place and around 10,000 miles. I changed mine out at 6000 miles but 2 guys lost theirs already in our group. If you're down there do yourself a favour and change ALL your bearings.

PS. If you're being towed with a broken driveshaft...YOU HAVE NO BRAKES! One guy found that out the hard way.... :o|
 
maxdlx said:
How tight was your track

Thats exactly what I question as well. Also wonder if studs play a roll such as being on the throttle in air and landing jumps on hardpacked. I have around 20,000 kms on mine and not babied. I'm still on my stock drive axle, but always try to keep my track on the loose side. I even landed a bad jump a couple weekends ago and my axle bearing burped out on me first when I landed. Just went through another hard weekend of riding and have issues on my chaincase side now, but the drive axle just doesn't seem to want to break. I might just change it out to be on the safe side.
I'm sure the forth rear wheel kit helps keep equal pressure across the drivers as well.

Dan
 
I ride fairly hard. Running a fourth wheel, studs, 136" track.

Just recently tighten the track a little more because of the ratcheting in deep powder.

Hit some groomed trails, hard on the throttle and BAM.

The blackening on the shaft where it broke definately was faulty, there was even a rust line from a crack. But the track tension flexing the shaft made it go over the deep end. Along with the colar right next to the wheel, causes rust and a breaking point...IMO.
 
well my track was waaaaay looser than spec. I find that running a loose track i get much longer hyfax wear.
I honestly believe that this driveshaft has been cracked for a while, judging by the rust and wear against the fresh tear.
Funny thing was i realy wasn't on it like i have been before, more of a rolling power on.
 
I worry about my shaft snapping after I hit the gas coming out of a corner going into another one and the boost builds SNAP and me going into a corner with no brakes!

I may just change it out for the micro bel mont one for more protection.
 


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