THKSNOW
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biffdotorg said:
My battery is fine and I have a brand new Yamaha stator so I think it blows that theory...
biffdotorg
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Thanks for the quick feedback. This is all just one big process of elimination. You saved me the cost of a new battery at least.
02xtreme
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.biffdotorg said:
I agree, could easily be into $1000 and not even solve the issue. I've tried putting the CO to +5 and it didn't do anything. I might try -5 as suggested above.
WinderFab
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biffdotorg I also have a new battery and my yamaheater led light flashes the same as yours,
In my case my sled will stall every time it's idling more than a few seconds once it's warm but starts up again as soon as I turn the key,
If it was a fuel problem would it start back up that good?
What ever the problem is it's making the sled idle right down in till the rpms are so low that it will just stall out,
I also tried adjusting the idle while the sled was hot and running and the idle will not go up or down while turning the idle screw adjustment, can that be part of the problem?
I'll keep u guys posted if I come up with something...
In my case my sled will stall every time it's idling more than a few seconds once it's warm but starts up again as soon as I turn the key,
If it was a fuel problem would it start back up that good?
What ever the problem is it's making the sled idle right down in till the rpms are so low that it will just stall out,
I also tried adjusting the idle while the sled was hot and running and the idle will not go up or down while turning the idle screw adjustment, can that be part of the problem?
I'll keep u guys posted if I come up with something...
How long does it take for the idle to drop , after you re-started when warm after it stalled out
It could be a fuel delivery issue ,how much throttle to you have to give it to stay running.does it runs smooth.
Try running it on a stand and before it stalls out ,rev it up good spinning the track and see how long it takes to stall again.doing this may give it more fuel taking longer to stall?
I have never heard of anyone replacing fuel pumps,but this may be the symptoms? i have been running the Yamaha Fuel Products and hoping that it keeps all my solders and parts clean of the green and BS Ethanol in the fuel system.
This is very interesting,hope you all get a solution .
It could be a fuel delivery issue ,how much throttle to you have to give it to stay running.does it runs smooth.
Try running it on a stand and before it stalls out ,rev it up good spinning the track and see how long it takes to stall again.doing this may give it more fuel taking longer to stall?
I have never heard of anyone replacing fuel pumps,but this may be the symptoms? i have been running the Yamaha Fuel Products and hoping that it keeps all my solders and parts clean of the green and BS Ethanol in the fuel system.
This is very interesting,hope you all get a solution .
WinderFab
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tomanytoyz when my sled is cold the rpms do go up and down a bit but it stays running, it's when it's hot that it will stall,
If the sled is warm or hot it will stall with in 2-4 seconds every time I come to a stop, rpms drop fast once I come to a stop,
I've tried revving the sled on a stand once the rpms comes down and the track stops spinning it will stall out with in 2-4 seconds,
When it does stall out it restarts as soon as I turn the key, will a fuel delivery problem still make the sled start right away,
Sled runs fine besides this idle problem,
If the sled is warm or hot it will stall with in 2-4 seconds every time I come to a stop, rpms drop fast once I come to a stop,
I've tried revving the sled on a stand once the rpms comes down and the track stops spinning it will stall out with in 2-4 seconds,
When it does stall out it restarts as soon as I turn the key, will a fuel delivery problem still make the sled start right away,
Sled runs fine besides this idle problem,
You try un-hooking your coolant and oil pan heaters ? not sure how those plug in ? see what it does . maybe a vacuum leak somewhere? you would think if it was a fuel problem it would stave up top rpm and not run good? .there are a few guys having this issue right now .how many miles do you have
WinderFab
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tomanytoyz they plug in through an extension cord which I just keep wrapped up under the foot rest, I only use them when the temp really drops,
I have just over 14 000 km and it's been doing this for about the last 6000 or 7000 kms,
I could be wrong but I kind of ruled out a fuel problem because how good it will restart, if it was starving from fuel wouldn't it take longer to restart and to much fuel would also take longer to restart, it starts back up as soon as I turn the key, idles up to around 1500 rpms than with in a few seconds idles down and stalls,
Something is making the sled idle down to stall when it's warm (hot),
I have just over 14 000 km and it's been doing this for about the last 6000 or 7000 kms,
I could be wrong but I kind of ruled out a fuel problem because how good it will restart, if it was starving from fuel wouldn't it take longer to restart and to much fuel would also take longer to restart, it starts back up as soon as I turn the key, idles up to around 1500 rpms than with in a few seconds idles down and stalls,
Something is making the sled idle down to stall when it's warm (hot),
I read an old post saying that are Coolant Temp Sensor controls the red light and idle down .the colder the coolant the longer it stays idled up also the red light stays on longer.
You say it goes up and down a bit as its slowly warming up than it stalls. then warm or hot it stalls..
Seems like only when cold its fine or better cause the sensor is telling it to idle up. it controls the idle at a point .
Like i said before if it happens to mine i would buy one to see or pull it out of a sled that you know runs good.changing it on my truck fixed my issue ,yeah i know its a truck but..
You say it goes up and down a bit as its slowly warming up than it stalls. then warm or hot it stalls..
Seems like only when cold its fine or better cause the sensor is telling it to idle up. it controls the idle at a point .
Like i said before if it happens to mine i would buy one to see or pull it out of a sled that you know runs good.changing it on my truck fixed my issue ,yeah i know its a truck but..
Or you could take the sensor out ,leaving it plugged in to the connector _when the sled is COLD and heat it up with a lighter-telling the sensor its warm. while you have the hole plugged so the coolant doesnt leak all over and start the sled and see what it does?
Or warm it up to temp when it starts to stall again and pull out the sensor and cool it right off and start it up and see.dont put it back in just hold it out .
Or warm it up to temp when it starts to stall again and pull out the sensor and cool it right off and start it up and see.dont put it back in just hold it out .
02xtreme
Pro
Fabio said:
Exactly same as mine. Can turn the black idle adjust knob and nothing happens unless I turn it 2 or 3 turns but he hot idle will still go down. I've spent hours reading over the past year, only thing I haven't ruled out that has been mentioned is a valve adjustment. My sled has 11000km.
sx7001
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Fabio said:
I have 2 high mile 06's in the garage now, both idle around 1100rpm. One took 2 full turns on the idle screw to hit 1500rpm and the other 1.5 turns. They seem fine now. I'm thinking its something in that idle valve.....
WinderFab
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Tomanytoyz I did a parts search, they call it a thermosensor $42 or so, Its worth a try, I'll post back once I replace it,
02xtreme my idle knob is like yours, doesn't do nothing when motor is hot, that's not right, I think that's linked to the problem somehow,
02xtreme my idle knob is like yours, doesn't do nothing when motor is hot, that's not right, I think that's linked to the problem somehow,
Ok great . I always look at the non-obvious things .. You try turning the idle knob when cold to see if it reacts?
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As tomanytoyz just posted, try the idle adjustment knob first to see if that makes any change.
I have a little different thought on what may be happening here, as I've seen it a few times before.
The 4cyl motors use a coolant operated valve that controls idle thermostatically, and the red light that was mentioned here in earlier posts doesn't actually control the idle, but rather indicates when the motor has reached a safe operating temp. The ecu also limits the ignition system to prevent over-revving until it's up to a safe temp, and oil has had sufficient time to circulate.
I'm 95% sure your issue is in the valve assembly. I've seen a few of them that over time get some corrosion in them, or have something blocking the air passages.
If you have access to a simple vacuum gauge, remove the headlight pod and bracket and carefully set aside while leaving everything plugged in, including the air temp sensor. You shouldn't need to remove the airbox for this.
The manual calls for a special synchronizing hose to connect to the vacuum gauge, but for the purposes of diagnostics, a single gauge will get the job done.
Start teh sled up and let is warm up to operating temp. This is where you should make sure you have tried the main idle screw first to be sure it doesn't stall on you. You don't have to rev it up or anything, just let it idle.
Located at the base of each injector is a small vacuum cap held in place with a clamp. Remove one cap at a time and install the gauge, noting the vacuum reading as accurately as you possibly can.
*You'll be looking for each cyl to have just over 8in Hg, or 8.0709in Hg to be exact*
There are 4 small slotted screws on the top of the valve assy that are numbered 2,3,4,5. Cyl 1 is #2, cyl 2 is #3, and so on. Start with cyl 1 ist and use that as your standard. If you see any of them that are more than .4in Hg different from your #1 cyl, slowly adjust that cyl to bring it within spec, and then rev the engine two or three times for less than a second each, and re-check the reading at idle.
My suspicion is that you may have something plugging one or more of the lines, causing it to starve for air at idle. You can also remove the individual larger air lines to each cyl and gently blow them out and check for any corrosion in the fitting. Most of these issues are caused by humidity in the off season during storage, and can usually be fixed with a little cleaning.
If that doesn't solve the problem, I would look further into the valve assembly itself, as corrosion on the coolant side could be causing the valve to stick one way or the other. It operates just like the normal thermostat, only it opens the air bleed circuit when its cold and slowly closes as it warms up. The ecu controlls the fuel proportionately to temp as well, so if the two aren't operating at the same pace/level, it'll cause issues as well.
Sorry for the long read, but The idle valve is subject to wear/age/deterioration just like a normal thermostat, and on sleds that are starting to get a bit older, should be considered when diagnosing issues like these.
Pm me if you need any further help, or if all the suggestions here aren't working for you. I have the manual on my computer at my shop where I usually post from, and am glad to help you through whatever you need.
I have a little different thought on what may be happening here, as I've seen it a few times before.
The 4cyl motors use a coolant operated valve that controls idle thermostatically, and the red light that was mentioned here in earlier posts doesn't actually control the idle, but rather indicates when the motor has reached a safe operating temp. The ecu also limits the ignition system to prevent over-revving until it's up to a safe temp, and oil has had sufficient time to circulate.
I'm 95% sure your issue is in the valve assembly. I've seen a few of them that over time get some corrosion in them, or have something blocking the air passages.
If you have access to a simple vacuum gauge, remove the headlight pod and bracket and carefully set aside while leaving everything plugged in, including the air temp sensor. You shouldn't need to remove the airbox for this.
The manual calls for a special synchronizing hose to connect to the vacuum gauge, but for the purposes of diagnostics, a single gauge will get the job done.
Start teh sled up and let is warm up to operating temp. This is where you should make sure you have tried the main idle screw first to be sure it doesn't stall on you. You don't have to rev it up or anything, just let it idle.
Located at the base of each injector is a small vacuum cap held in place with a clamp. Remove one cap at a time and install the gauge, noting the vacuum reading as accurately as you possibly can.
*You'll be looking for each cyl to have just over 8in Hg, or 8.0709in Hg to be exact*
There are 4 small slotted screws on the top of the valve assy that are numbered 2,3,4,5. Cyl 1 is #2, cyl 2 is #3, and so on. Start with cyl 1 ist and use that as your standard. If you see any of them that are more than .4in Hg different from your #1 cyl, slowly adjust that cyl to bring it within spec, and then rev the engine two or three times for less than a second each, and re-check the reading at idle.
My suspicion is that you may have something plugging one or more of the lines, causing it to starve for air at idle. You can also remove the individual larger air lines to each cyl and gently blow them out and check for any corrosion in the fitting. Most of these issues are caused by humidity in the off season during storage, and can usually be fixed with a little cleaning.
If that doesn't solve the problem, I would look further into the valve assembly itself, as corrosion on the coolant side could be causing the valve to stick one way or the other. It operates just like the normal thermostat, only it opens the air bleed circuit when its cold and slowly closes as it warms up. The ecu controlls the fuel proportionately to temp as well, so if the two aren't operating at the same pace/level, it'll cause issues as well.
Sorry for the long read, but The idle valve is subject to wear/age/deterioration just like a normal thermostat, and on sleds that are starting to get a bit older, should be considered when diagnosing issues like these.
Pm me if you need any further help, or if all the suggestions here aren't working for you. I have the manual on my computer at my shop where I usually post from, and am glad to help you through whatever you need.
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