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07 apex rpm's very low and stalls when warm on idle


My cold starting isn't much to be desired. My other 07 Attak had a small stumble cold ( 5 deg or below 0 ) but this new one I got that had 800 miles only on it starts with much more of a stumble. today it actually stalled. I had to give it throttle to keep it going until it was warm enough to hold it's own. The sled runs like a raped ape once the light goes out . I did change the plugs just last week. Not the gas as it's done this all season. Should I try to set the injection like above? go to the minus side of 0 ? Opening the throttle to hold the idle mean's it's too rich or lean? I know opening the thottle means letting air in but also allows more fuel in as the idle picks up..kind of confusing. I wish I recorded my settings on the old Attak with 10000 miles before I sold it.
 
CaptCaper it doesn't hurt to try and lower your CO below 0,

I started this topic because of the low idle I started to get a few years back and the cold start stumble, with great help from Ty members my idle is way better now and the cold start stumble is gone,

When I adjusted my CO it was at +5, so I lowered it to 0 and it got better than I went to -5 and it fixed my idle and cold start stumble,

Last weekend I wanted to see what will happen if I raised the CO back to 0, with the CO set at -5 I started the sled in -20 and it started fine with no stumble, a few hours later I adjusted the CO back to 0 and when I started the sled the stumble was back, sled warmed up I flipped the throttle and the rpms went down again to 1100, so I went and put the CO back to -5 and all is good again, now I know for sure that the CO was causing my problem and I won't touch it again, so give it a try and see what happens,

Let us know how it goes if you decide to lower your CO,
 
Thanks.. I won't hurt to open it and record the settings then try it.
 
Fabio said:
Apex/Attak Fuel Adjustment Process
By: LeadDog



Apex C0 Fuel Adjust:
- Install a wire (or paperclip) from ground to the pale green wire in the connector on the left of the delta box. This wire has no mating wire in the male connector and only needs to be grounded to the Delta Box.




Enter Diagnostic mode:
- With the key and kill switch off, press and hold both "Select and Reset" buttons then power up the gauge by turning both the key and kill switch on.
- Wait 8 seconds and the gauge will go blank except for "DI" in the display.
- Press "Select" to toggle between "DI" and "C0", Select "C0".
- Press and hold both "Select and Reset" 3 seconds
- Gauge will display "C:01", (this is where you select which cylinder you want to adjust)
- Press and hold "Select and Reset" 3 seconds and 0 should appear in the odometer section
- Press "Select" to increase the number (richer), "Reset" to decrease the number (leaner)
- Example: (10 would be richer) (-10 would be leaner)
- Press both "Select and reset" to chose C:02 and adjust the same as above (must do this for each cylinder)

You will want to go RICHER (positive numbers). Generally up 10 will be enough to get past any hesitation or stumble you may run into.

Dumb question here but I have to ask and maybe others are wondering but to shy too, after reviewing your post on how to adjust the CO, I noticed the connector that i should be grounding (on the left side of the delta box) is under the air box, so for each time I want/need to adjust i will need to remove the air box ground the connector do the adjustment then remove the ground and put back the air box.

It seems the way guys are posting here that adjustment is a lot easier than that. Perhaps everyone would be leaving the the paper clip ground in the connector so as to not remove and reassemble the air box for every time there is an adjustment made/needed. If that's the case would it be safe to leave that paper clip grounding the connector there on a full time basis?

Sorry guys have to ask.
 
I was just about to do my '07 GT and read this last post. On my sled, this wiring harness is just above the clutch guard. So I am only removing the side cover to do this. Am i looking at the wrong one, or is the previous poster looking at the wrong one.

Or, did they relocated it after 2007?

I'm doing it, as mine looks exactly the same as the one in the pic. If it goes into diag mode, then I guess I have the right one. Can't go any further if it was wrong.

Wish me luck!

Thank you!
 
Well, I just got done with my CO adjustment.

My Apex had the connector exposed above the belt guard, so I had it easy. I took all four down to -12. Fired it up and immediately sounded better!! I can't wait till next season to play with the adjustment and see how it runs. So far so good!

Thanks for this great write-up.
 
Doing the CO adjustment soon as well. Question...according the the previous instructions quoted below I would need 3 hands ??? wouldn't it be easier to just leave the kill switch alone and just turn the key to power up while holding the "Select and Reset" buttons ?
"Enter Diagnostic mode:
- With the key and kill switch off, press and hold both "Select and Reset" buttons then power up the gauge by turning both the key and kill switch on. "
 
You can do it by either leving the key or the kill switch in the "on" position, and using two fingers to hold the select and reset buttons, then flip the remaining power switch to "on". It isn't that difficult. I'd leave the kill switch on and just use the key, but either will work.
 
Good reading. I bought an 06 late last season and it's doing the same thing. Only got to ride it once and didn't have a chance to look into it. I'll be checking the co when I do my preseason maintenance
 
I read in these posts a number of comments about cold start stumbles and roughness. I was told by my shop that the cold start idle is controlled by the knurled black knob on the end of a small manifold on top of the motor. I was told the knob only controls the cold idle. When the machine is warm and the idle drops, hopefully to normal, the cold idle circuit is no longer used. When I read comments about cold idle roughness, it makes me think the adjustment of the black knob is what should be changed. Once the machine is warm, it sounds like the low idle issue is probably due to the co settings. Two separate issues i'm guessing.
 
I read in these posts a number of comments about cold start stumbles and roughness. I was told by my shop that the cold start idle is controlled by the knurled black knob on the end of a small manifold on top of the motor. I was told the knob only controls the cold idle. When the machine is warm and the idle drops, hopefully to normal, the cold idle circuit is no longer used. When I read comments about cold idle roughness, it makes me think the adjustment of the black knob is what should be changed. Once the machine is warm, it sounds like the low idle issue is probably due to the co settings. Two separate issues i'm guessing.
From what you describe I think is the idle adjustment as it is shown in my manual??
 


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