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07 apex rpm's very low and stalls when warm on idle

The throttle position sensor does not "crack" the throttle open at cold idle. Its simply a sensor that sends a 0-5 volt signal to the ecu for it to reference fuel and spark tables. That's it. There's no mechanical or electrical device in there that moves the blades. It only tells the computer where it is.
Why are you so aggravated with ethanol fuel? I live in the central US, and you can't hardly get gas without it having some percentage of it, and I haven't heard anyone complain about ethanol in many years? (and I'm a mechanic by trade...)
Its not fuel related- period. End of story. I will bet any amount of money that makes you nervous on it.. Lol Any vehicle made within the last 10-15 years or so won't have any materials in it that are affected by it.
The alcohol content in it could be corrosive to certain things, mainly some older rubber fuel lines and cork gaskets, but its not like you're running alcohol like a race car woud be. Its normally only 10% +/-.
An Apex with idle issues is and can only be (assuming no neglect issues) the idle control valve. If you think of the environment that it lives in, you'll see why a nearly 8 year old sled might have some issues.
Its ran in bitter cold intake temps with intermittent engine heat warming things up, and add in there a few crank case vapors from the vent tubes, then possibly trailering with wet, crappy road conditions (even enclosed is sill a wet environment) then store it all summer through the humid, rainy and hot months.
If you were a passage way that was the size of an ink tube from a ball point pen breathing through most of those conditions, I'd bet that eventually some dust mixed with a little humidity might get in there and cause some corrosion, huh?
The valve is operated via coolant temp, so there's antifreeze on one side of the valve and air on the other, and most of us know that antifreeze isn't foolproof against corrosion, so.....
A far as your comment about it "spitting back"and causing corrosion, I could go on for days.. Yes, there is a small portion of the fuel that could make its way to the back of the throttle blades and maybe dampen them a little. Its a low-pressure, low-airflow situation. However- keep in mind that it idles through tubes that are tiny, so how much fuel is actually delivered during idle? Its minuscule.. Not top mention, unless the engine back-fires, the airflow is only one way into the engine. Even when not at idle, there's still some air moving through the idle circuit.
So no, Grunter, Im sorry but it doesn't make sense. Its not how it works, and your tps doesn't get "sticky". It either reads or it doesn't. If you changed one and it fixed your problem, it was sending the wrong signal. Its simply a rheostat.
You might want to embrace the ethanol deal and study it some. No reason be so aggravated. Its not going away any time soon and will likely only get more and more available as time goes by.
 

Well reading these topics because the idle speed floats in my '08 Nytro, and trying to understand why. I have no fault codes, changed spark plugs, measured idle speed control etc. When engine is cold no problem idle stays around 1500 rpm, but when warm typically coming back from trail and leaving engine running for a moment idle speed drops to around 1320 rpm for a say two second and goes back to 1500 rpm and again drops after say 15 seconds to around 1300 rpm. What to do next? Change ISC despite pocket tester gives right resistance?
 
ok ,so i played with the Co settings today as per the TY Tec section and others have mentioned above

I adjusted the Co to -10 on all for holes from cold before i even started it
It was about -10C temp when doing. i started it and it sill had a little cold start rumbble
but not as bad as usual.
Warmed it up and blipped, slapped whacked the throttles 100 times and all i could get it to do was drop to about 1300rpm but it would quickly find its way back to 1500rpm.(used to drop to 900-1000rpm)
Rode it around the back forty for half an hour and i couldn't get the idle to drop like
it normally dose. it always comes back to 1500rpm.(it was kind of weird as i've had this idle problem for almost 20,000km Theres 29,000km on it now)
so i bumped the Co settings to -12 on all 4 holes and that raised the idle to 1600-1800rpm
put 100km on it making many many stops wacking the throttle trying to get it to drop.
It was like it was 20,000km ago.Very solid, even taking it up a steep hill real slow and honking on it and letting off at top,like when you load it into a truck or trailer, and it was solid.
Also now when turning the IAC nob on the side of the IAC the idle actually went up and down like its suppose to.
I think my fuel milage may be a little down but i would expect since i technically rich end the fuel.
question is as these get more k on them is this the fix or are we covering something else up.
I'm pretty happy with results i got today, like its the way it was back before it started.
I am going to bump it back down to -10 next ride and run it good just to see what i can get for a consistant idle then do the same thing at -8 setting as well as playing with the IAC adjuster.
I will report back on any other findings
also report on milage

cheers
hi...finaly found a fix.. mine is doing the same thing nows o i will set the co. is that something i can set with my powercomander progam or is it just as easy doing it on my cluster? could you explain how to set it please... glad to find a fix!!
 
ok ,so i played with the Co settings today as per the TY Tec section and others have mentioned above

I adjusted the Co to -10 on all for holes from cold before i even started it
It was about -10C temp when doing. i started it and it sill had a little cold start rumbble
but not as bad as usual.
Warmed it up and blipped, slapped whacked the throttles 100 times and all i could get it to do was drop to about 1300rpm but it would quickly find its way back to 1500rpm.(used to drop to 900-1000rpm)
Rode it around the back forty for half an hour and i couldn't get the idle to drop like
it normally dose. it always comes back to 1500rpm.(it was kind of weird as i've had this idle problem for almost 20,000km Theres 29,000km on it now)
so i bumped the Co settings to -12 on all 4 holes and that raised the idle to 1600-1800rpm
put 100km on it making many many stops wacking the throttle trying to get it to drop.
It was like it was 20,000km ago.Very solid, even taking it up a steep hill real slow and honking on it and letting off at top,like when you load it into a truck or trailer, and it was solid.
Also now when turning the IAC nob on the side of the IAC the idle actually went up and down like its suppose to.
I think my fuel milage may be a little down but i would expect since i technically rich end the fuel.
question is as these get more k on them is this the fix or are we covering something else up.
I'm pretty happy with results i got today, like its the way it was back before it started.
I am going to bump it back down to -10 next ride and run it good just to see what i can get for a consistant idle then do the same thing at -8 setting as well as playing with the IAC adjuster.
I will report back on any other findings
also report on milage

cheers
so if i understand correctly..adjusting the CO from lets say 0 to -10 actually reduces the fuel amount at idle? or the opposite ?
 
Go back to page 8 on this thread there are instructions on how to set the CO...

Yes reduces the fuel...
 
Go back to page 8 on this thread there are instructions on how to set the CO...

Yes reduces the fuel...
Fabio, ,, Does this procedure(adjusting CO) only for my idle and bottom end? Or does it adjust the top and mid range fuel settings also? And will this adjustement interfere with my power comander mapping?I love learning more about this stuff lots to it.. thank you for the help.
 
Yes Justin, only for idle/bottom end, it usually clears up any idle issues you may have...

I wouldn’t think it would interfere with your power commander but I can’t say for sure ...
 
Yes Justin, only for idle/bottom end, it usually clears up any idle issues you may have...

I wouldn’t think it would interfere with your power commander but I can’t say for sure ...
Sounds good. Mine is doing the stalling thing and also is a little slow on snap from idle. You think it's to lean or to ditch? Keep in mind I have a mod air box (ram air) tho k I will try -10 like you did ..and see from there
 
Fabio, ,, Does this procedure(adjusting CO) only for my idle and bottom end? Or does it adjust the top and mid range fuel settings also? And will this adjustement interfere with my power comander mapping?I love learning more about this stuff lots to it.. thank you for the help.
Adjusting the CO settings will only affect the idle areas below clutch engagement speeds. The rest of your adjustments should be made with your Power Commander
 
Just did mine and it fix the stalling /bad idle and snap response. -10 did the trick for mine. Thanks
 
Well this is a very interesting thread! Not something I've experienced, but i haven't ridden the sled yet in the winter, so we will see. Certainly curious what my current CO settings are, but I assume stock is 0. I might take a look and see what they are.
 
I guess I will have to try it on the trails.. I will keep you up to date..might be a while yet before we get snow tho lol
 
I know I was able to enter diag mode without jumping the pin to ground on the electrical connector. I was just checking my TORS values. Was I only in a read only mode or something, or a different part of the diag system? Do you have to jump the pin to ground to change these settings? Just curious.
 
Yes it does. You must ground the pale green wire to ground
 


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