07 apex rtx shock removal q's

[donkickit]

You can remove both shocks without removing the rear skid. Take a look at this post for info on how to remove the center shock. I'm sending myne
to Pioneer Performance.

 

[ahicks]

I agee both can be done without removal, but would ask why somebody would do that to have the shocks sent out for service? Pretty safe bet that if the shocks are due, the suspension itself is very likely due for a good inspection as well? I mean, you're sending the shocks out to achieve top performance, may be a good idea to carry through on that idea by pulling the suspension and giving it a good going over as part of that program?

If you're looking at the time/stress involved pulling the shocks without pulling the suspension vs. pulling the suspension, there little if any difference either way....

 

[donkickit]

I only have 1400 miles on the sled. Unhappy with performance of suspension since new. I'm hoping the re-valve will pay off. If you read all the posts about the rtx shocks being too soft I think u will agree. I bottom all the time with the current setup.

 

[Terminator]

So I too have decided to have both of my shocks revalved by Pioneer Performance. I also have an 07 rtx. I'm trying to figure out the best way to remove them w/o removing the skid. I'm going to losen the track to start with then I Read you need to remove the bolts at the end of the transfer rods to remove preload. Worried that I will have trouble putting them back in. Any suggestions? Then limiter straps.

Anybody got a step by step procedure?

Thanks for any input.

 

[donkickit]

Here were my steps:

1.) put sled on stand and jack up rear high.
2.) spray your shock bolts/nuts with penetration oil.
3.) remove limiter straps in front. 10 mm wrench/socket
4.) remove rear shock 1 bolt on top, 1 on bottom.
5.) remove center shock after cutting hold in idler
to slide bolt out. 14 mm wrench / socket, step bit.

Oh, and break your knuckles trying to free the bolts,
no space to work. Took me a few hours, was my first time.

 

[Terminator]

Here were my steps:

1.) put sled on stand and jack up rear high.
2.) spray your shock bolts/nuts with penetration oil.
3.) remove limiter straps in front. 10 mm wrench/socket
4.) remove rear shock 1 bolt on top, 1 on bottom.
5.) remove center shock after cutting hold in idler
to slide bolt out. 14 mm wrench / socket, step bit.

Oh, and break your knuckles trying to free the bolts,
no space to work. Took me a few hours, was my first time.

Thanks donkickit, I'll give it a try, not looking forward to the center shock though.

 

[ahicks]

<<<Oh, and break your knuckles trying to free the bolts, no space to work. Took me a few hours, was my first time.>>>

This is the biggest reason to just remove the entire skid to do this job. At the very least, consider releasing the torsion springs, then remove just the rear suspension bolts (at the tunnel) and let the back of the suspension come down. This'll let you see what you're doing much easier, allow better access to what you need, and be a no hassle reinstall when you're ready. All you'll need to do is lower the sled to line the bolts back up and reinstall the torsion springs. You're talking 10 minutes tops, easily handled by one man, and it can save you a ton of time and trouble on the shock job.

 

[Terminator]

<<<Oh, and break your knuckles trying to free the bolts, no space to work. Took me a few hours, was my first time.>>>

This is the biggest reason to just remove the entire skid to do this job. At the very least, consider releasing the torsion springs, then remove just the rear suspension bolts (at the tunnel) and let the back of the suspension come down. This'll let you see what you're doing much easier, allow better access to what you need, and be a no hassle reinstall when you're ready. All you'll need to do is lower the sled to line the bolts back up and reinstall the torsion springs. You're talking 10 minutes tops, easily handled by one man, and it can save you a ton of time and trouble on the shock job.

OK ahicks, maybe worth considering, so how do you "release" the torsion springs?

Thanks

 

[ahicks]

<<<Oh, and break your knuckles trying to free the bolts, no space to work. Took me a few hours, was my first time.>>>

This is the biggest reason to just remove the entire skid to do this job. At the very least, consider releasing the torsion springs, then remove just the rear suspension bolts (at the tunnel) and let the back of the suspension come down. This'll let you see what you're doing much easier, allow better access to what you need, and be a no hassle reinstall when you're ready. All you'll need to do is lower the sled to line the bolts back up and reinstall the torsion springs. You're talking 10 minutes tops, easily handled by one man, and it can save you a ton of time and trouble on the shock job.

OK ahicks, maybe worth considering, so how do you "release" the torsion springs?

Thanks

In a word? Carefully.....

Turn the cams down to low to minimize the preload. With the sled's back end well supported so there's maybe a foot of air under the rear of the track, you can begin by carefully turning the black sliders forward so the spring will clear them. Yes they're free to turn. That'll dump a little more preload. You could then remove the wheels, but that's optional. Now, you can slide a large/long box end wrench (or similar- to allow you to get both hand on it) over the long end of the spring, lift it up over the wheel if it's still there, then let it down slowly as you pull it toward you to clear the track. Sounds harder than it is really. Whole operation only takes a minute.

 

[donkickit]

shock re-install

Received both shocks back from pioneer, within 10 days.

(he put in a heavier duty spring in the center shock and
re-valved both) $250

Re-installation of shocks:

Left track jacked up in rear. Inserted center shock
and jacked up center of track to align.

The rear-shock a bit harder. I used a piece of bailing twine
and compressed the shock all the way down.

Then inserted bottom of shock, put nut/screw thru, and cut
the bailing twine. Shock went right in place.

Don't forget the shock shims. I'm going to lock tight the nuts.

 

[Terminator]

After a short attempt to remove my rear shocks I have a new procedure for you guys who like to spin wrenches, scrape knuckles and like pain in general.

1) Load sled on trailer
2) Get in truck, drive to local dealer
3) Unload sled
4) Ask service department to remove shocks, send to Pioneer Performance, then reinstall!
5) Drive home, grab a cold one, grab remote, watch football

 

[happy1426]

i like your idea i think ill do that then while everything is out get it replaced or fixed!!

 

[donkickit]

Great idea, if u like giving the dealer all your moooney.
I'm sure that would run $250-$300 bucks alone. Then hope & prey
they put it back together correctly. I trust my work more. We have some
money hungry dealers in upstate NY to say the least.

 

[Terminator]

Great idea, if u like giving the dealer all your moooney.
I'm sure that would run $250-$300 bucks alone. Then hope & prey
they put it back together correctly. I trust my work more. We have some
money hungry dealers in upstate NY to say the least.

Fortunately I have a pretty resonable dealer, I have given him plenty of business over the years so he at least uses vasoline, lol. 3/4 hr to take out and 3/4 to put in, about $120. I like to do what I can as well to save a $ but in this instance its money well spent.

Honey grab me another cold one!