07 Attak gt High beam blue light comes on and wont start

[yamashaker]

This has never happened to me before, I was riding my sled and stopped for a few minutes to wait for riders. when I went to restart my sled nothing happened, but the dash going through its cycle, at the end the high beam light came on and stayed on. I tried to start sled but no power to the fuel injection and starter. after a few minutes it did the same thing. I tried again just clicking ignition switch and it caught and fired up. I drove another 15 minutes with no problems and then shut it off again, it wouldn't start again with high beam blue light on, after another few minutes the dash spooled up correctly and started like normal. went home without shutting it off and parked in shop. tried to start it, but it wouldn't. Left overnight and it would not start. when I turned on the ignition, blue high beam came on again, dash cycled properly with red cold start on, fuel pump didn't charged nor the starter turn over, battery fully charged. Could the problem be the ignition switch fuel pump module or something else

 

[steiner]

Sounds like you lost a ground somewhere and its backing feeding thru the high beam circuit. Have you checked for the notorious ground blocks?

 

[74Nitro]

Battery terminal bolts good and tight?

 

[yamashaker]

I haven't checked the block's as of yet, battery good and posts tight and cleaned. Where is the most likely spot to check the blocks?

 

[yamashaker]

Battery terminal bolts good and tight?

Yes

 

[steiner]

Ground blocks.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/apex-wont-crank-and-no-fuel-pump.83994/

 

[yamashaker]

Ground blocks.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/apex-wont-crank-and-no-fuel-pump.83994/

This has never happened to me before, I was riding my sled and stopped for a few minutes to wait for riders. when I went to restart my sled nothing happened, but the dash going through its cycle, at the end the high beam light came on and stayed on. I tried to start sled but no power to the fuel injection and starter. after a few minutes it did the same thing. I tried again just clicking ignition switch and it caught and fired up. I drove another 15 minutes with no problems and then shut it off again, it wouldn't start again with high beam blue light on, after another few minutes the dash spooled up correctly and started like normal. went home without shutting it off and parked in shop. tried to start it, but it wouldn't. Left overnight and it would not start. when I turned on the ignition, blue high beam came on again, dash cycled properly with red cold start on, fuel pump didn't charged nor the starter turn over, battery fully charged. Could the problem be the ignition switch fuel pump module or something else

Thanks guys for all your reply post for my Attak, the 2 ground blocks above the primary clutch were the problem the one with the black wires had slightly melted the cap and the block with the brown wire was corroded badly under the cap. I cleaned both blocks good and sealed with dialectic grease, she fired up on first crank and running great!! Thanks for all your help guys your the best.

 

[steiner]

Thanks guys for all your reply post for my Attak, the 2 ground blocks above the primary clutch were the problem the one with the black wires had slightly melted the cap and the block with the brown wire was corroded badly under the cap. I cleaned both blocks good and sealed with dialectic grease, she fired up on first crank and running great!! Thanks for all your help guys your the best.

Do yourself a huge favor and cut those ground blocks off, get rid of the dielectric grease and solder those wires together. Cover the connection with heat shrink tubing.
The dielectric is a great insulator for electrical as I have found out. Daughter's car died 30 miles from home after I just installed a new battery. I coated the terminals and clamps with dielectric grease. This prevented a good connection between the terminals and clamps. Cleaned off the dielectric grease and she was good to go. I now go back to grandpa's way and use plain old gun grease to protect electrical connections from the elements.

 

[yamashaker]

Do yourself a huge favor and cut those ground blocks off, get rid of the dielectric grease and solder those wires together. Cover the connection with heat shrink tubing.
The dielectric is a great insulator for electrical as I have found out. Daughter's car died 30 miles from home after I just installed a new battery. I coated the terminals and clamps with dielectric grease. This prevented a good connection between the terminals and clamps. Cleaned off the dielectric grease and she was good to go. I now go back to grandpa's way and use plain old gun grease to protect electrical connections from the elements.

Thanks for the tip

 

[steiner]

Thanks for the tip