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09 handwarmer resistance


Good job Blueballer. Glad your theory worked out for you. How do those Hot Grips fit and work around your hooked bars? I think your Nytro has them don't they. Are they too short or do they sell something I missed on their site. Mine measure around 7 3/4".
First I have heard about the heaters being left on during start up causing FI problems. I don't think I have ever turned mine off after riding and have not noticed any problems.
By the way what wattage were the power resistors you used? I think I remember your last calculations to be at 1 ohm resistors. Were they the ones that Hot Grips sells at 10 watts?
 
Timeline said:
Good job Blueballer. Glad your theory worked out for you. How do those Hot Grips fit and work around your hooked bars? I think your Nytro has them don't they. Are they too short or do they sell something I missed on their site. Mine measure around 7 3/4".
First I have heard about the heaters being left on during start up causing FI problems. I don't think I have ever turned mine off after riding and have not noticed any problems.
By the way what wattage were the power resistors you used? I think I remember your last calculations to be at 1 ohm resistors. Were they the ones that Hot Grips sells at 10 watts?
Click to expand...

I had to cut off the hooked portion of my bars. I bought curved bar ends from yammy that were "supposed" to work with 7/8" bars. Well.....mine didn't fit worth beans. way too tight. had to take them to the bench grinder so they would fit inside the stock bars.

I ordered the longer version of hotgrips for yammy sleds. model #601-854. I ordered them with open ends so I could install the bar ends. But, my only complaint was they left the raised bump on the end of the hotgrips, rather than have a smooth transition to the hooked bar ends. So, out came the utility knife. kinda butch, but I didn't like the feel of that ridge in my palm.

I bought a 2 pack of 1 ohm, 10 watt power resistors at Radio Shack. only $2. they actually measure 1.4 ohms, so take that into consideration.

The hotgrip kit only came with one resistor - it was a 2.4 ohm I believe.

The nice thing about the hotgrips is the nylon insulator on the inside. It will really aid in insulating the heating elements from the handlebars. The hotgrips on mine overhang the handlebars by 1". But with the rigid nylon insert, there is zero flexing. Slam in the hooked bar ends and you're off to the races.
 
Here are some pics. I mounted the power resistors to the radiator air intake shroud. Couple of zip ties and she ain't going anywhere. I also placed a strip of adhesive backed aluminum between the shroud & resistor - just in case she gets a little too warm. lol
 

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Blueballer.....Thankyou....

What you have done here is awsome. I am still going to hold out for a couple months for a fix that can use the stock grips, but let me tell you: If the going gets tough....I will be using your fix for sure if that's what it will take. Great job.
 
I've ordered the RSI heaters. Plan A is to mount them on top of the existing grip and cover them with a wrap and/or HD shrink tube. Plan B is hack off the hooks and go with Hot Grips. Plan C is to ride with my hands in my pockets.

Thanks to everyone for their input on this problem. I just hope the next collaboration won't be on "how do I replace an ECU"
 

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I don't plan on stopping yet Eagle 1, we have 30 pages or so to go, LOL.

arteeex, I'm thinking the same if my plan A doesn't work. Possibly the RSI heaters on top of the bars and then stock factory grips on top. Your plan C is funny. The ECU deal does make me a little nervous.

Blueballer, again nice job. They look good. I was still hoping to keep the factory looking hooks. I was a little hesitant on cutting the bars but you showed that it can be made to look ok. On a previous post I mentioned my ZRT heaters with the ceramic elements but thinking about it after looking at the curve of the bars they probably won't fit in there. It was a few years ago that I changed my bars on the ZRT and don't really remember how big they were. Your approach may solve this.

Still thinking about this. I'll try that PWM controller. Another thought is leaving the factory set up but using supplement heat. Ceramic heaters in the bars with the PWM controller wired to battery voltage. Just turn up the dial for those really cold days and let them both work.

Need to find some time for all this, still working on other mods like my temp. gauge anti rub kit, soon to be ordered sway bar, rear cooler and skid wheels.
I hate it when work and other things get in the way of my hobbies.
There is still time for this but man, I need snow.
 
rupprider said:
Mental image; LJ 452, with head and handlebars in freezer while the sirloins melt! LOL All in the name of science ;)!
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HAAA! I know, it's a little crude but it's as close a I could get. Hey I still have a snow ball in here from Paradise last year!

I can only hope it thaws out some beef. That would mean it works. ;)! I like my steaks rare anyways. Well, back to testing!
 
All this fear of frying the ECU has led me to dig deeper. By looking at the schematic, it seems as though the highest current flow through the ECU is just shy of 12 amps.

I'd say I'm safe with the 2 extra amps I'm passing through it. All the EE's, take a look at the schematic and see if you can figure it out.

That may be what my dealer was talking about, robbing "juice" from the system if there is only 460 total watts available. If you rob too much, you may not have enough to properly fire your injectors.

There, I gave you guys a hint.

lol

Man - isn't knowledge grand
 
More food for thought. Ever wonder why the MTX's were the only ones with an auxiliary DC outlet?

Could it be that mountain riders don't typically run a heated shield?

What other explanation could there possibly be?

Factor in a heated visor that will typically draw 1.25 amps. The power consumed by the visor would be in the range of 17.5 watts.

Now the MTX's have a DC outlet with a fuse rated at 3 amps. That leaves you able to run a resistive load of approx. 4.67 ohms, with a power rating of approx. 42 watts.

If you're still following along, that means that I have approx. 42 watts available(maybe more) with the stock 460 Watt magneto.

The circuit I've added is 86 Watts total. The old heating elements are rated at 64 watts for both.

That means 86 watts - 64 watts = 22 watts over original specs.

Now factor in the MTX DC capabilites of 42 watts minus the 22 watts that I just added and I still have 20 watts "reserve".

If on a cold day I'm running my heated shield, I'll have 20 watts - 17.5 watts = 2.5 watts left over!!

Again - this is pure speculation as I have nothing to back my claim against, but I thought I'd throw my THEORY out there for those that like to ponder.

I'm running my HOTGRIPS with 10 full bars showing and I'm not even going to think twice about it.

Have fun boys - I'm done with this thread - time to move on to the next task at hand - the dreaded '08 FRONT END!!
:o|
 
Has anyone received a set of RSI warmers yet? If so can you measure the resistance? Before I order a set, I want to be sure they measure what was claimed in an earlier post.
 
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