09 handwarmer resistance

[Timeline]

Yep. These are better. Do they come in Blue?

Yes they come in Blue.

 

[r0tax]

FWIW, I got my sled running tonight. And even at 1-2 mins of idle at ~1500-1800 RPM, the grips started to warm up at setting 3.
Using the RSIs, no resistors.

So they DO work sub 4500 RPM...which I think has already been proved by science in previous pages.

But now its been proven by much simpler means!

 

[PS2003]

hey everyone....interesting thread. I checked my 09 XTX today and both grips had a resistance of 7.5 when I checked them cold(62F) in my shop.

Not sure what this means given all of the previous info but I think you were looking for these numbers. Am I destine for cold hands?

 

[BLUEBALLER]

hey everyone....interesting thread. I checked my 09 XTX today and both grips had a resistance of 7.5 when I checked them cold(62F) in my shop.

Not sure what this means given all of the previous info but I think you were looking for these numbers. Am I destine for cold hands?

Thanks for the info. I've been waiting patiently for those numbers - I was optimistic that yammy corrected the issue for 09, but apparently I was dead wrong.

Unfortunately, you're destined to have frozen sausages like the rest of us.

There are a few options for you in this thread when you feel the time is right to upgrade your pathetic handwarmers.

Good luck.

 

[Doug]

Hmmm........ Just a thought here after reading the entire thread. I really, really want warmer hands, but am really concerned about overloading the ECU.

How about using the RSI dual-element heaters, with one element wired throught the stock ECM, and the other wired to a switched circuit from the battery?

This would allow a wide range of adjustability, prevent any error codes from the ECU not reading the proper resistance, and also not overload the ECU.

I would also power the switch with a relay triggered by the key, to eliminate the possibilty of draining the battery.

Thoughts?

 

[happyjonn]

hot hands

i like that idea

 

[arteeex]

The RSI heaters do not contain discrete circuits for high and low output. The system uses a long resistive element on the heater base material. To get the high/low feature there are two taps into this resistive element - one at the end for the low output and one in the middle for the high output. You would only get HIGH and varying degrees of low (or vice versa) from of the arrangement suggested above. The middle values would not be available.

Good try though.

 

[Doug]

The RSI heaters do not contain discrete circuits for high and low output. The system uses a long resistive element on the heater base material. To get the high/low feature there are two taps into this resistive element - one at the end for the low output and one in the middle for the high output. You would only get HIGH and varying degrees of low (or vice versa) from of the arrangement suggested above. The middle values would not be available.

Good try though.

Yea, I was thinking the middle tap could be the ground, then each end would be the positive, fed from two sources. Sounds like it wont work with one end being fed a constant 13V and the other an intermittent 13V?

 

[ruffryder]

Yea, I was thinking the middle tap could be the ground, then each end would be the positive, fed from two sources. Sounds like it wont work with one end being fed a constant 13V and the other an intermittent 13V?

yep, that would work! pretty good idea.. Only issue is that you would be running on high all the time on one circuit. Might be an issue if you run into situations where you need to let it get cooler... I guess you could always switch it!

Another idea is to do like you are saying, but run both circuits (not the high and low, but basically the two highs) together, except have one that is switched. When it is crazy cold out, you could have them both in parallel, but when it isn't that cold out, you could only have one....

Lots of options here to do stuff....

 

[Doug]

Yea, I was thinking the middle tap could be the ground, then each end would be the positive, fed from two sources. Sounds like it wont work with one end being fed a constant 13V and the other an intermittent 13V?

yep, that would work! pretty good idea.. Only issue is that you would be running on high all the time on one circuit. Might be an issue if you run into situations where you need to let it get cooler... I guess you could always switch it!

Another idea is to do like you are saying, but run both circuits (not the high and low, but basically the two highs) together, except have one that is switched. When it is crazy cold out, you could have them both in parallel, but when it isn't that cold out, you could only have one....

Lots of options here to do stuff....

No issues with any "backfeeding" of the battey-supplied juice through the element fed by the ECM when the PWM is "off"?

What I'm thinking is you could leave the switched, battery supplied element "off" and use the ECM controlled element through it's full range of output. Seems that would closely mimick the factory heat output? If more heat is needed, the switch could be turned "on", then the factory rocker switch adjusted up or down. Seems like that would offer a pretty good range of output?

I'm only a Plastics Engineer, not an EE, so I probly only know enough to be dangerous here, lol.

 

[ruffryder]

You would operate each element individually, as there are basically two high elements for the rsi heaters. Putting the two in series, gives you the low... Normally only one is used as a high... but you could have the battery connected to the other one. There are two discrete high elements... there is not a discrete high and a discrete low...

Just remember that the ground for each element needs to be common...meaning the white wire... otherwise you will see the magic smoke! That or you will see what a Nytro looks like when it turns into a toaster... lol

 

[ruffryder]

So I found out why my nytro handwarmers suck so much..... I wore out the warmer element and it would no longer be an closed circuit and operate...

I am curious how long it has been like this.... Check out the pics. Both sides had the same issues too... Might be something to consider if you are having problems... Unfortunately you can only check by trashing your grips.. I just cut mine off with a knife

broken circuit 1...

broken circuit 2

burn/melt spot on grips..

second pic..

 

[LJ 452]

To check the element, just use an multi meter and measure the resistance. Should be between, 6.1 and 7.5 ohms.

 

[BLUEBALLER]

That's what I think will happen to the RSI's over time as well. Those flimsy thin element style are just that - flimsy.

HOTGRIPS my man!!

 

[Crewchief47]

I deleted some posts that were not about fixing the problem. This is fix it thread, not a bitch about thread. I assume everyone having problems has contacted their dealer and cutomer service over any problems they've had.