'19 SRX coolant bubbling after ride

[fourbarrel]

Been reading a lot,and I mean A LOT,on issues that I'd like to be proactive on with my sled before they become a problem.One of them is the water pump,which I'm wondering if it may be the cause of,or contributing to,the constant coolant bubbling every time I shut the engine off after a ride.I have read where this may be an air lock issue and I did bleed the system last spring before putting the sled away for the summer.I actually added about a pop bottle of coolant to the system and I figured the problem was cured,but it returned this past winter so I'm still chasing this issue.One of the things I plan to do is pull the water pump this fall just to check and likely replace it whike it's apart.Can't see me springing for the billet one,as nice as it would be to get away from the failure prone stock one,but I just can't justify the cost right now.I read where a member put an air bleed line on the reservoir to keep trapped air from building up and would like to know if anyone else has done this and how it is working out.
To those that have done the water pump on their sled,what all did you have to get for parts? Besides the impeller itself and the bearing I remember there being gaskets or seals too.Can anyone comment on the needed parts? My bud went through this same repair over the winter on his T Cat and had to wait for parts so I want to make sure I have everything on order well in advance.
On to the next thing.........driveline bearings.As I remember reading a while back the jackshaft bearing has a tapered inner race? Is this correct? I can buy an aftermarket bearing but the ones I have seen are straight cut races so I want to clarify this before buying new axle and jackshaft ones.
I bought the Prevost brass bushing for the upper chaincase gear and it will also be pressed in this fall.

 

[earthling]

If by bubbling you mean the gurgle sound when you shut it off, that is the way it is supposed to work.

 

[Turboflash]

My comments:
1. Water pump - While it's true there have been posts on TY documenting failed water pumps, they are very rare. If/when it happens, you'd know it almost instantly as the coolant temp would skyrocket. Time to shut it off! You have stated your plan would be to use stock Yamaha components to replace your original pump. Given that you say you are not going to use the Dasa billet one, what makes you think that if you buy new OEM parts that they are any better than the pump in your engine now? Your current original impeller might last the life of the engine. IMO, if you're not going to replace current original with billet, save the time and money. So far, the theory about why OEM impellers fail seems to related to air in the cooling system causing cavitation which subjects impeller to shock which breaks it loose from shaft. So, get all air out of cooling system!
2. Gurgling sounds - as Earthling states, the cooling system design includes the small aluminum cooling tank over by the turbo. It's purpose is to provide coolant flow post-shutdown to the turbo to continue to cool it when engine is off. That sound is normal. However, once again, it is critical to make very sure all air is bled from cooling system. If you're not sure, I would recommend purchasing one of those vacuum type purging systems.
General comment - coolant level in the expansion tank (on top of belt guard) should rise when engine is hot and return to previous level when engine is cool. You should not have to add coolant throughout the season. If you do, you have leaks (or you're boiling some out!).
3. Bearings - there are plenty of posts here on TY about all bearings/BOP wedge, etc. IMO, since the right-side jackshaft bearing and the right-side track shaft bearings are continuously oil lubricated (by chain case oil), unless they sustain some other physical damage, they do not need replacing as wear is negligible. Both left-side bearings can be cleaned and re-greased fairly easily (even without removing them). Since you are going to install BOP wedge, you may want to remove the caliper assy to test needed torque. Just clean and re-lube bearing. Make sure you use a good ball bearing grease with temp ratings appropriate for snowmobile use.

 

[InRBigness]

3. Bearings - there are plenty of posts here on TY about all bearings/BOP wedge, etc. IMO, since the right-side jackshaft bearing and the right-side track shaft bearings are continuously oil lubricated (by chain case oil), unless they sustain some other physical damage, they do not need replacing as wear is negligible. Both left-side bearings can be cleaned and re-greased fairly easily (even without removing them). Since you are going to install BOP wedge, you may want to remove the caliper assy to test needed torque. Just clean and re-lube bearing. Make sure you use a good ball bearing grease with temp ratings appropriate for snowmobile use.

The chaincase bearings, although continually lubed, should still be replaced every couple of years. I replaced upper gear in my viper and felt the bearings and they both felt great. 2000K later the upper one grenaded and took out both sides of the chain case. I took apart my sons whos was serviced at the same time. It was also on the way out. I now replace all four bearings every few years to be safe. Not going through that head ache again.

 

[Hammer Down]

Been reading a lot,and I mean A LOT,on issues that I'd like to be proactive on with my sled before they become a problem.One of them is the water pump,which I'm wondering if it may be the cause of,or contributing to,the constant coolant bubbling every time I shut the engine off after a ride.I have read where this may be an air lock issue and I did bleed the system last spring before putting the sled away for the summer.I actually added about a pop bottle of coolant to the system and I figured the problem was cured,but it returned this past winter so I'm still chasing this issue.One of the things I plan to do is pull the water pump this fall just to check and likely replace it whike it's apart.Can't see me springing for the billet one,as nice as it would be to get away from the failure prone stock one,but I just can't justify the cost right now.I read where a member put an air bleed line on the reservoir to keep trapped air from building up and would like to know if anyone else has done this and how it is working out.
To those that have done the water pump on their sled,what all did you have to get for parts? Besides the impeller itself and the bearing I remember there being gaskets or seals too.Can anyone comment on the needed parts? My bud went through this same repair over the winter on his T Cat and had to wait for parts so I want to make sure I have everything on order well in advance.
On to the next thing.........driveline bearings.As I remember reading a while back the jackshaft bearing has a tapered inner race? Is this correct? I can buy an aftermarket bearing but the ones I have seen are straight cut races so I want to clarify this before buying new axle and jackshaft ones.
I bought the Prevost brass bushing for the upper chaincase gear and it will also be pressed in this fall.

I have a 17 and ride with two others Winders. I was experiencing a lot of gurgling after shutdown while the other in My group had little no gurgling. the fix was to add more coolant. I had to pull the panels and add it direct to the engine fill not the reservoir. Problem fixed. My Winder has 14K plus miles on it I think coolant may boil off over time because we have been meticulous looking for leaks before most rides. I hope this helps.

 

[NYTurbo]

I have a 17 and ride with two others Winders. I was experiencing a lot of gurgling after shutdown while the other in My group had little no gurgling. the fix was to add more coolant. I had to pull the panels and add it direct to the engine fill not the reservoir. Problem fixed. My Winder has 14K plus miles on it I think coolant may boil off over time because we have been meticulous looking for leaks before most rides. I hope this helps.

You need to bleed your system. Run it up to temperature and bleed the tank that feeds the turbo .

 

[Turboflash]

Agree. My experience is once these systems are properly bled with all air out of system, they are very stable meaning the coolant level in the expansion tank never changes (always same when cold) and you never have to add coolant (I suppose there is a tiny bit of evaporation out the vent hose). Also, from riding with a group that has 3 other 998s (total of approx. 18,000 miles), we rarely if ever hear the gurgling sound fourbarrel describes. IMO, I would suspect air in the system if that is common with his sled.
As NYTurbo states, run sled to full operating temp, loosen the bleed screw on the turbo tank. When cold, the coolant level in that tank should be up to the bottom of the threads in the bleed screw hole.

 

[earthling]

When you guys are filling the tank, are you also checking the coolant mixture? From the factory mine is full of 100% coolant, on the plus side its protected to -63, on the negative side it gets hot fast as coolant is not as good at heat transfer as water.

 

[Yamarus]

After you have passed, do you need to let the engine run to cool the turbine? Or can I turn off the engine right away?

 

[WinderFab]

After you have passed, do you need to let the engine run to cool the turbine? Or can I turn off the engine right away?

No need to let the engine run to cool down the turbo

 

[74Nitro]

The chaincase bearings, although continually lubed, should still be replaced every couple of years. I replaced upper gear in my viper and felt the bearings and they both felt great. 2000K later the upper one grenaded and took out both sides of the chain case. I took apart my sons whos was serviced at the same time. It was also on the way out. I now replace all four bearings every few years to be safe. Not going through that head ache again.

The Vipers have that double row top bearing in the chaincase that is much more prone to failure than the winder top bearing, which is a heavy duty single row.