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Coolant hose protectors

Even the braided line isn't exposed anymore no?

9f4f9bfd-64e6-456a-bd1d-abb2553d0801-jpeg.163206
 

You be the judge. It appears to be a shorter section of hose then the 17 on the right side. The left side has very little exposed hose that's going to be a issue. For someone that wants total piece of mind and does not want to be concerned about cleaning tunnel or at least looking into tunnel and checking things out then get the protectors.. Travis has always been a great supporter of TY and came up with many great mods/piece of mind products.
 
jonlafon1 said:
The left side has very little exposed hose that's going to be a issue.
Click to expand...

Going to try to cover the rest of the hose with same yellow glue they used. Not much left to cover. Or maybe all used a flexible glue I have in case I need to rip it apart.
 
The design flaw is in the way the tunnel connects to the front heat exchanger. The tubes coming forward from the rear exchanger just rivet to the bottom of the tunnel. The hoses connect the two together. When the light flexible tunnel gets pushed up in the middle from snow and ice the tubes from the rear exchanger also get pushed up allowing the hoses to cut from the inside out.
The tunnel needs to be stronger here.
The barn of parts hose protectors should help with this problem.
Also a plate added to the top or bottom of the tunnel will help in this area.
 
1nc 2000 said:
Just posting to help others out from my mistake of not putting the full length tunnel protectors in when studding. Track was run at 1/2" sag when adjusting just like in Precision EFI video.
Click to expand...
Great pics .
What track and which studs ?
That set up looks like what I think I want to put on my 22 SRX , with the 270 SS flash .
 
The STM tunnel protectors and 1.5 track dont leave much room above the 9 tooth drivers. Track is almost touching protectors in this area.
Have to do some modification to tunnel protectors in this area.
Don't know if I am going to shave them down or cut the front of them off above the drivers and put BOP hose savers back in.

I will post up some pictures later.
 
1.50 lug just touching the STM tunnel protectors above the drive axle.
Time to experiment now.
Going to remove tunnel protectors and reinstall
BOP hose protectors and measure and cut the front off of the STM protectors then reinstall.
Won't know how much clearance it will have until rear suspension is installed.

Anyone run into this before?
61138.jpeg
 
1nc 2000 said:
1.50 lug just touching the STM tunnel protectors above the drive axle.
Time to experiment now.
Going to remove tunnel protectors and reinstall
BOP hose protectors and measure and cut the front off of the STM protectors then reinstall.
Won't know how much clearance it will have until rear suspension is installed.

Anyone run into this before?
View attachment 163486
Click to expand...
I have. They don't touch once installed, but they are close. They rob speed as you can't run the track tight enough to keep them from rubbing. I just took them out and sold them. I run 1.86 triggers in the storm track with no protectors (except rear) and have no marks in 2k miles. My dad runs 1.74 mega-bites in the same track and also no marks. If I did it again I'd go with the mega-bites as they hold up great. Triggers are fine if snow is good but bend a lot in early riding season.
 
1nc 2000 said:
1.50 lug just touching the STM tunnel protectors above the drive axle.
Time to experiment now.
Going to remove tunnel protectors and reinstall
BOP hose protectors and measure and cut the front off of the STM protectors then reinstall.
Won't know how much clearance it will have until rear suspension is installed.

Anyone run into this before?
View attachment 163486
Click to expand...
I installed the BOP hose protectors but decided to stud my track now so I ordered the STM protectors like you have and don't really want to take the BOP hose protectors off if I don't have too so is cutting them down an option like you mentioned?
 
FYI - I have a set of new STM protectors if anyone is looking. I sold my used set, but we never even put them on my dads so his set is for sale.

If it were me and I was going to run the STM's I'd remove the BOP protectors and call it a day. The STM's provide quite a bit of protection although not as much/good as BOP setup.
 
snowdust said:
I have. They don't touch once installed, but they are close. They rob speed as you can't run the track tight enough to keep them from rubbing. I just took them out and sold them. I run 1.86 triggers in the storm track with no protectors (except rear) and have no marks in 2k miles. My dad runs 1.74 mega-bites in the same track and also no marks. If I did it again I'd go with the mega-bites as they hold up great. Triggers are fine if snow is good but bend a lot in early riding season.
Click to expand...

I had studs hit the tunnel near where the rear section of tunnel attaches. So I need tunnel protectors and a tighter track.
 
21GT said:
I installed the BOP hose protectors but decided to stud my track now so I ordered the STM protectors like you have and don't really want to take the BOP hose protectors off if I don't have too so is cutting them down an option like you mentioned?
Click to expand...
I'll know more after the rear suspension goes back in the chassis with the shortened protectors. Tomorrow morning project.
 
snowdust said:
I have. They don't touch once installed, but they are close. They rob speed as you can't run the track tight enough to keep them from rubbing. I just took them out and sold them. I run 1.86 triggers in the storm track with no protectors (except rear) and have no marks in 2k miles. My dad runs 1.74 mega-bites in the same track and also no marks. If I did it again I'd go with the mega-bites as they hold up great. Triggers are fine if snow is good but bend a lot in early riding season.
Click to expand...
IMO, if we run track tension like TD suggests (no sag under slide rail - which BTW is faster) studs won't hit anything.
 
snowdust said:
I have. They don't touch once installed, but they are close. They rob speed as you can't run the track tight enough to keep them from rubbing. I just took them out and sold them. I run 1.86 triggers in the storm track with no protectors (except rear) and have no marks in 2k miles. My dad runs 1.74 mega-bites in the same track and also no marks. If I did it again I'd go with the mega-bites as they hold up great. Triggers are fine if snow is good but bend a lot in early riding season.
Click to expand...
I had called STM and asked them about the 1.50 track rubbing and they told me it wouldn't be a problem.
Ya right...
 
Turboflash said:
IMO, if we run track tension like TD suggests (no sag under slide rail - which BTW is faster) studs won't hit anything.
Click to expand...
iv always ran tracks loose, as loose as possible without ratchet, easier on sliders and rolling resistance, i allways was told loose is faster? i also dont stud anything anymore iv wrecked to much stuff with studs over the years lol but imo if u have to banjo a track for clearance thats way to close
 
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