2003 RX 1 Chaincase Bearings. Help Please!!!!!

[bgallant_7@hotmail.com]

Hopefully, the bearing is definitely snugger on the shaft just inside of where it is seated now. I had 3 - 4 threads visible and now the nut is flush with the threads on the top gear. Each thread is 1 mm approx. Thats what I' am thinking that the bearing was not seated right and being side loaded. Mystery for sure but hopefully I' am trouble free from here on out. Never had much trouble besides this and when I did it was simple troubles nothing a few hours and a few cold ones could not fix. This was tricky though, and still not sure if the excess shaft was the problem. The cover used to require a few light taps with the rubber mallet and now once you have the reverse forks in place you can push it on with your finger easily. Strange but I was for another ride and bearing is still good. Drained the chain case oil and no dirt this time so I used new again just to be sure of contaminates. How about the little knock I' am getting when engaging from reverse to forward, Could this be fixed by the adjustment arms on the reverse levers, it don't state in the manual and I don't want to shag with it not knowing.

 

[Len Todd]

With the shaft mis-positioned by the PTO side bearing, the inside C-clip on the chain-case side could have moved the chain-case "stack of parts" such that there was side pressure on the chain-case side bearings.

The horizontal reverse linkage rod needs to be exactly 1.06" locknut to locknut.

The vertical reverse linkage rod then needs to be adjusted in the direction to shorten the rod until resistance is felt. Then back the adjusting rod off 1/4 turn and set the locknuts.

Now that you have ridden it a bit, you may want to consider re-checking the chain tension and keeping a close eye on the oil level, for a while. You may want to make sure you back the chain adjustment screw off 1/4 to 1/2 turns from finger tight. The reverse works better with some play in the chain.

Congratulations! Now go ride it. You earned it!

 

[bgallant_7@hotmail.com]

I discovered something new that I' am thinking now could have been my trouble all along and the reason for too much shaft on the case side. I went for another ride yesterday evening with the guys and was overjoyed that I finally have my sled back on the snow where it belongs. Then I heard a strange noise. I retreated from the ride and returned home. As soon as I put the sled back in the shed I automatically checked the case side, all looked fine, seal was still in and track was easy to turn by hand. I then looked on the secondary side and seen right away that the lock nut which was 100% tight was backed off. Then as I went to get the home made wrench I made to fit the nut I also noticed a circlip just inside the nut on the shaft. I removed the secondary and then attacked the case once again. Totally dismantled everything once again and soon found that the circlip was indeed the one you mentioned in you last reply. It was totally out of the slot, not damaged or so I thought by looking at it. I removed the shaft completely and inspected the slot where the clip inserts and seemed fine but scratched it out to be sure with a scratch all. I then got a little curious so I took all the parts that are on the shaft at the top of the case. I inserted the clip then the collar, the bearing, the collar behind the gear and the gear and tightened it up. I pinched the shaft in my vise so I could torque it up. It torqued fine but seconds after it was torqued I heard a snap. Looked and the clip had jumped out of it's slot, First thing I said was why. I then concentrated on the clip and noticed after eyeballing the clip that it was tapered all around it's inside edge, the edge that locks into the slot. Swapped out old with new and tried the same in the vise. Torqued it and left it. It stayed there. I reassembled everything once again and tried the sled again. I swear I can dismantle and reassemble now blind folded. The bearing was still fine but I bought two just in case the other day so I used the other new one, to be sure. Now by this time I was pushing midnight so I waited till this morning to ride it and all went fine. Checked the nut behind secondary and the case and all is good. Now to answer yours I tightened the chain finger tight but since reading your earlier reply I have backed it off 1/4 turn. Since discovering the little knock when engaging from reverse to forward I tightened the chain finger tight again thinking that may be the problem but it still knocks so I backed it off 1/4 turn again. Once engaged it is fine, only when the gears first engage from reverse to forward. Another site that I have been using said that when they shift from reverse to forward on their rx1 they can hear the gear disengaging and forward gear engaging. Is this the way it should sound? I never took notice to this before it was just a turn the key, check the fluids sled. Going to try the sled again shortly but will be checking the site after. Hopefully my ride being spoiled last evening was for a good reason. I will try to upload a pic of the clip. Have you ever seen a clip do that? And I guess the lock nut would back off obviously with the shaft wanting to slide would it? All in all no serious damage and only a ride lost. So I now have it pin pointed to the clip jumping out of it's slot and giving play on the case side, would you agree with that? Hopefully now I will be able to ride it, and if you are ever in Corner Brook Newfoundland come take it for a ride you deserve it as well for all your help. I know I have said it a thousand times all ready but again thanks for everything Len Todd and as well others, glad people like you are out there.

 

[bgallant_7@hotmail.com]

Forgot to mention, that is the same clip that was on the original shaft as well. Problem started with that shaft and was carried over to this one by that little clip. So I hope!!! Later.

 

[bgallant_7@hotmail.com]

Big ride today and trouble free. Cruising trails, racing other sleds, and hill climbing. All seems to be fine. No noises. I set the reverse linkages as well Len and the knock I was getting is gone. Sounds good enough to close the deal, I feel much more confident now that the circlip was my problem the whole time. I just tried to upload a pictire of it for you but my firewall would not allow the pic to upload. Thanks again and if I ever run into trouble again I will be asking for some more advise. Take care.

 

[Len Todd]

Sometimes a C-Clip is tapered on one side. If you have one of these, the non-tapered (sharp) side goes toward the PTO Side.

Yamaha does say to replace C-clips every time you remove one. I typically don't. But, given the consequences of the failure in this case, I am thinking, this is a good one to replace, if it is ever removed. (I just replaced the one on my Brake Rotor. )

Glad the shifting clunk is gone. Like I said: If you get those linkages adjusted right on the button, it will shift very nicely.

The Bearing on the PTO side of the jack-shaft will typically restrain the jack-shaft from migrating to far into the chain case. But, there may have been enough migration to cause premature bearing failure.

Have fun. It sounds like you have this one licked. If I ever get up there winter or summer, I'll look you up. The same invitation goes out to you. I would like to meet a man with as much patience as you have shown, without any negativity creeping in. It was a pleasure helping you.

 

[bgallant_7@hotmail.com]

Thank you again and take care. If you ever do travel here be sure to look us up, always welcome in Newfoundland. Later.