2006 attack won't start!

[steveg_nh]

That wouldn't prevent it from properly starting or dying at a certain RPM, at least I don't think. It would just prevent it from properly spinning up...At least that's how it worked on my old Viper (2 stroke). Does TORS kill the sled completely on a 4 stroke?

 

[Kens914]

No Tors code it cleared when i spun new speed sensor. Got 55 psi at fuel pump. Whats next. There are no codes being displayed.

 

[mbarryracing]

Will it stay running if you open the throttle a bit right to raise the RPM when it starts? I have seen the Idle Air circuit valve on top of the throttle bodies malfunction and cause a no idle or stalling, could be closing off the idle air.

 

[gouldsjett1]

55 psi fuel pressure at idle is high, should be 43-43. Maybe your fuel regulator isn't working correctly and your drowning the engine.

 

[earthling]

Fuel, Spark, timing. I would think that the fuel was okay given the sleds ability to achieve ignition and start to warm up. The fuel delivery is more of a mapping thing, the injectors regulate delivery(?) so I would probably put that last on the list, it still feels like ignition and/or handoff to warm up state which is controlled by either throttle position or some magic sensor somewhere but either way, if you don't have good spark and a clean hand off, you are going to stall. If the sled will start again right away its probably not fuel as you would think that enough fuel to flood/kill the engine would be enough fuel to stop it from a fast-restart. If it can repeatedly start but not warm up I would still look at ignition, starting with ignition relay and looking for issues with spark, cables, etc.. It takes a lot more spark to run an engine than it does to start it but I would speculate that if it were a single wire problem you would have a rough running engine not a complete stall. That leaves you with ignition, and the core elements that affect all cylinders equally...

 

[Kens914]

sounds like the ignition switch could be burnt out in the run position. seen it happen a few times on trucks and cars.

easy yest would be to disconnect the wire from the ignition on the solenoid, hold the key in the start postion and jump the solenoid to start it. if it keeps running while in the crank/start position, odds are that is the problem.

 

[Kens914]

Ok so if it will run and idle perfect if u hold the in crank position with starter disconnected. As soon as u put key to run u lose power to fuel pump.. hot wired fuel pump and it stays running but also blows 10 amp fuse at starter solenoid. There is a new starter solenoid and fuse in it. I had just ordered it. Had a code 11 but got 4.9 volts at sensor while running so thats good cleared code disconnected battery. Grounded ecu and started it up. Same thing . Needs to be in crank position to stay running. No codes now. And we took the key switch apart. Which i would not recommend doing. Super clean in side. Baffled!!! Wiring grd blocks are clean and even tried grounding directly to battery. No change.
Ideas anyone. Besides parting it out. Lol

 

[earthling]

Can you give it throttle in that position?

 

[Kens914]

Yes enough that the clutch engages. I need to look at all the power and grounding blocks. Need some help knowing where they all are.