2006 Attak code 12, crank but no start, no action at solenoid

[Subdivisions2112]

I picked up my 2006 Yamaha Attak a few months ago in non-running condition. Everything seemed to work on the sled except it would not start when the key was turned. Naturally, I figured it was the starter solenoid, so I tried starting it by jumping the contacts on top of the solenoid. Sure enough, came to life pretty quickly. Ran great too, took it for a few rides in this condition, just starting it with some pliers across the contacts. After some time, the replacement relay showed up, and I installed it. Still nothing. I lost ground for the fuel pump through one of the ground blocks when riding one day, so I disassembled all of them. Found a burnt wire near the primary clutch ground block. I removed the ground blocks and soldered each wire together, fixing my fuel pump issue. The only ground block that I did not get to was the one under the coolant reservoir. After this, still nothing from the solenoid. Not even a click. Despite this, I was still able to start it and run it just fine using the pliers and had no issues putting 250 miles on it after fixing the ground blocks.

It was around last weekend that I was riding and I was having some fun sliding around on ice at about 5 mph and tipped it over onto the right side, not causing any damage. I shut it off immediately after tipping it over. After tipping it back over, I restarted it after allowing it to sit for a bit and it fired right back up and rode another 10 miles completely fine, after which I parked it in my garage and shut it off. The next day, I went to start it up and go for a ride before we lost what little snow we had, but it only sputtered for a second immediately upon cranking, and a code 12 appeared on the dash. After this, it would crank and crank but would not start. It would occasionally grumble a bit but didn't really sound like it wanted to fire up. I understand that code 12 is for the pickup coil in the stator, but I've heard that issues with the starting circuit/solenoid can cause this issue as well. I presume this could somehow be related to my issue of getting no crank from the key but getting it to crank from the contacts on the solenoid. If anyone has any ideas it would be really helpful as I don't currently have the money for an OEM stator assembly, and I'm not sure how much I trust an aftermarket pickup coil. We have a huge snowstorm coming up and I'd hate to miss it, but I'm okay with (though quite begrudgingly) waiting until summer to fix it so it is ready for next season.

I'm not sure if the issue of the solenoid not clicking when the key is turned is at all related to code 12, but I sure hope it is. I have tested the keyswitch and it is not the keyswitch itself either. At this point, I am pretty much out of ideas. I have not tried firing it up since I took it apart after last weekend's no-start incident, but code 12 is still on the dash. My fuel pump does come on, and my dash does cycle as intended. I have looked at the spark plugs, but they looked clean. Will probably still replace them anyway. Any input is appreciated. Thanks for reading.

 

[74Nitro]

Error 12 are not related to the starter solenoid. You need a pickup coil. If you don't want to spend the money on the whole stator, then just buy a pickup coil for $50 and wire it in. It needs to be a 500ohm spec.

 

[maim]

pick up coils are availible separately from places like rm stator. no idea on how long they last but probably will finish the season with no issue.

as to the no key start, try taking apart the ign switch. i had one break off a peice of plastic internally and it would block the start position.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

pick up coils are availible separately from places like rm stator. no idea on how long they last but probably will finish the season with no issue.

as to the no key start, try taking apart the ign switch. i had one break off a peice of plastic internally and it would block the start position.

I have tested the switch, and the switch itself does work. I have also tested the trigger wires going to the starter solenoid in the 3-wire harness plug, and they read ~2.5v with the key in the crank position. I suspect this is not enough voltage to trigger the relay, but I am unsure whether this is within specs or not, as I have not been able to find much information about it online. Both the old relay and the new relay have been tested outside of the sled with a power supply, and they do work. I know 74Nitro said that this issue has nothing to do with the code 12 issue I am having, but I read on another forum that a guy had an issue with a starter solenoid failing and causing a code 12 no-start condition like mine. I also read that when the key is in the crank position, the ECU expects a signal from the pickup coil as the engine is supposed to be rolling over when the key is turned, but it isn't in my case which supposedly could throw that code. I am mostly confused about why the starter system seems to be getting at least some power to the relay, but not enough to trigger it. I suspect that mice may have gotten to some wires somewhere, but I have been through the harness thoroughly in the common repair areas. The only ground block I have not checked was the one near the coolant bottles, as I have not found a way to get to it. It is entirely possible it is just the pickup coil though as I've got about 18900 miles on this thing, so I wouldn't be surprised if it finally quit. In any case, I'll probably order a Kimpex aftermarket pickup coil, as I can get one for about $35 and it looks to be a better product than the no-name Chinese ones on eBay. I hate electrical problems.

 

[74Nitro]

Not sure what you mean by 'trigger' wires going to the starter solenoid.
Unplug your keyswitch from the main harness and inspect it closely. They were not sealed plugs and do give trouble. You should have battery voltage going to your keyswitch with the red wire. When you turn the key to the crank position it closes the circuit to ground via the blue/white wire. The red/white wire at the solenoid is your 12 volt power. The red/green is what sends power to the fuel pump. That fuse there is for the fuel pump.
The female plugs inside that connector block often give trouble in that they don't grip the male spade anymore.
The kimpex coil may be the same as the rmstator, but go for it. Be sure to wire it in carefully with heat shrink and soder the wires.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

Not sure what you mean by 'trigger' wires going to the starter solenoid.
Unplug your keyswitch from the main harness and inspect it closely. They were not sealed plugs and do give trouble. You should have battery voltage going to your keyswitch with the red wire. When you turn the key to the crank position it closes the circuit to ground via the blue/white wire. The red/white wire at the solenoid is your 12 volt power. The red/green is what sends power to the fuel pump. That fuse there is for the fuel pump.
The female plugs inside that connector block often give trouble in that they don't grip the male spade anymore.
The kimpex coil may be the same as the rmstator, but go for it. Be sure to wire it in carefully with heat shrink and soder the wires.

This is all correct. The trigger wires are the two wires in the 3-wire harness going to the solenoid that activates the solenoid when the key is turned. I believe it is the blue/white wire you mentioned. I just had a huge development with the sled just now. I just tried putting the battery on a charger and turned the key about 25-30 times and all of a sudden it started cranking with the key and the 12 code briefly went away. Still wouldn't start, and the code would intermittently come back when cranking. I am going to try some other things and triple-check the wiring for the coil, as well as the resistance values, and make sure that it is in fact bad before spending money on it. Thanks for the help, and I will continue to post updates as I figure things out.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

This is all correct. The trigger wires are the two wires in the 3-wire harness going to the solenoid that activates the solenoid when the key is turned. I believe it is the blue/white wire you mentioned. I just had a huge development with the sled just now. I just tried putting the battery on a charger and turned the key about 25-30 times and all of a sudden it started cranking with the key and the 12 code briefly went away. Still wouldn't start, and the code would intermittently come back when cranking. I am going to try some other things and triple-check the wiring for the coil, as well as the resistance values, and make sure that it is in fact bad before spending money on it. Thanks for the help, and I will continue to post updates as I figure things out.

Another update - Went out to try it some more, code 12 disappeared and then it fired some without starting up. Seems like it doesn't want to start with the airbox off, so I will have to put all of the wiring and stuff back in its place and get the air box on to see if it will start and run. Doesn't seem to me that there is any reason that it shouldn't at this point though.

 

[74Nitro]

Have you done the ohms test for the pickup coil.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

Have you done the ohms test for the pickup coil.

I have not. I will probably do it tomorrow if it still doesn’t want to start after putting it back together. I will also check the battery, and replace it if needed, as it seems to me that it could be contributing to these issues.

 

[74Nitro]

OK, with the code 12, checking the pickup coil resistance should be #1 job.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

OK, with the code 12, checking the pickup coil resistance should be #1 job.

Yeah, I agree. I just figured that with the code now gone and the check engine light off, it is worth trying to get it to start. Especially considering it showed some signs of life, meaning that it is getting spark and the injectors are doing their thing. If I find the coil to be bad, I will probably visit a snowmobile graveyard and attempt to find a used OEM Yamaha coil that tests well. If not, I'll order the RMstator or Kimpex branded one.

 

[Subdivisions2112]

Yeah, I agree. I just figured that with the code now gone and the check engine light off, it is worth trying to get it to start. Especially considering it showed some signs of life, meaning that it is getting spark and the injectors are doing their thing. If I find the coil to be bad, I will probably visit a snowmobile graveyard and attempt to find a used OEM Yamaha coil that tests well. If not, I'll order the RMstator or Kimpex branded one.

Read the coil resistance today. It was 24k ohms, so I will be replacing it with an RMstator coil as I can get one at my door in 2 days with their free 2-day shipping. Any suggestions/advice on doing the job? I know you have to drain the oil tank and remove it to access the stator cover, but beyond that, I don't know much about the process. Anything helps. Thanks guys.

 

[RobX-1]

Your call to use RMstator vs OEM but will need the gasket for the crank case cover and watch your fingers when removing and putting on the cover due to the strong magnetism. Not sure what's all invovled with wiring in the RMstator coil and/or crank position sensor as I opted for OEM when I had to replace the one on my 08 Apex. If replacing sensor with RMstator sensor, have read that wires sometimes have to be swapped due to reverse polarity and/or the holes securing the sensor may have to be slightly egged out to get sensor into proper position but I suspect as with anything else, results will vary and some will have had success with them; just not sure how long they last though.

 

[74Nitro]

Read the coil resistance today. It was 24k ohms, so I will be replacing it with an RMstator coil as I can get one at my door in 2 days with their free 2-day shipping. Any suggestions/advice on doing the job? I know you have to drain the oil tank and remove it to access the stator cover, but beyond that, I don't know much about the process. Anything helps. Thanks guys.

Not too hard, cleaning up the gasket takes a bit of time. Make sure the surfaces are clean. You can either cut the wires in an appropriate spot inside the engine, or feed them through the grommets and do it outside the engine. You need a bit of heat shrink.
If you decide to do the connections external, soder the new wires to the old wires without heat shrink to pull them through the grommets.
Use loctite on the bolts for the coil.