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2006 Attak - Will not start - HEEEEEELLLPPPP Please!

Yes this is how you check the spark.i would pull all 4 and lay them over and crank away,looking at them all for a few seconds.a couple other areas to look at are at the connectors at the coils.look closely for any green,clean and add di-electric grease and plug back in.check both connectors at the ECU ,again look closely clean ,di-electric grease plug back in.make sure its the ECU and not the rectifier.also the plug in back of gauge,check clean plug back in.
 

Thanks for all the replies!

I'll check for spark tomorrow. If there is none does that indicate a bad stator?

If there is spark, then is it likely to be some kind of fuel problem?
 
Prolly the crank sensor which is part of the stator harness. Pretty common problem.

Should show a code but we had one that did not. Find a manual and you should be able to check resistance to diagnose it. For access, remove or move the oil tank, then remove the cover on the end of the engine (allen head screws).

We still had spark but it was weak and irregular.
 
Thank you all for the efforts in your replies but I feel I'm lost and out of my league. I can do all kinds of maintenance but problem solving is where I have to draw the line. This sled is going to get dropped off Saturday to someone who works on them for a living. I'll post the results as they come in... Stay tuned for THE REST OF THE STORY...
 
Ok, I am an idiot....

After some research, I figured out where the Fault Codes are shown.

THNKSNOW, when you turn on ignition (not crank over) does the Engine symbol show up on the display and the Yellow Triangle light flash? If so, the display will show a number (Probably a #12 in your case). This is the number it showed me. Crank Position Sensor.
So if you have a mulitmeter, there is a two-wire connector inside the front nose (under hood) that has grey and black wires on sensor side. Disconnect this connection, turn multimeter to Ohms (downward horseshoe symbol) and put test probes on the two connectors. Should read 445 - 545 ohms. If it is a really high number, then the Crank position sensor is shot and you have to buy a new Stator (that has the Crank Position Sensor on it). BAD DESIGN YAMAHA!!!!! $12 part turns into $130+ part.

From your symptoms, this is what it sounds like is the problem. I struggled for hours tearing apart and putting sled back together trying to find problem, just to spend 20 minutes on Google and this site to figure out the fault codes are right on the dash. The Service Manual could have done a better job, or showed an example of where the fault codes will show up.

I have a stator on order from:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-YAMAHA-A ... 06&vxp=mtr

You need to splice in connectors but better than the $290 stock part.

Good luck!!

beer10t
 
beer10t said:
Ok, I am an idiot....

After some research, I figured out where the Fault Codes are shown.

THNKSNOW, when you turn on ignition (not crank over) does the Engine symbol show up on the display and the Yellow Triangle light flash? If so, the display will show a number (Probably a #12 in your case). This is the number it showed me. Crank Position Sensor.
beer10t

I appreciate your thoughts. There was no Engine Symbol, no yellow flashing, and no codes in the display when I turn on the key (without starting). Everything appears normal. It could be too many things and I don't have the knowledge or the patience.
 
Hopefully they get it figured out for you without spending to much $$$. need to spend that $$$$ on riding.yes please let us know.thanks.
 
I had a bad battery this year so I jumped it and it ran then got real rough. I figured the battery. I bought a new OEM one and also because of what I read I also replaced the speedo sensor. When I had them all installed it ran great. May be just a coincident! but it's something to look at. I'm not sure what happens when the speedo fails. I also put in a new crank sensor, but that was before the battery change.

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catal ... ickup-coil

This is the stator sensor I bought. I did have to open the hole to get it closer. I cut the wires from the old one inside the cover then soldered the new ones to the wires that ran to the plug. I then pulled the new wires thru the rubber boot seals. Once I got them thru, I unsoldered, trimmed the access wire and used shrink tubing when I resoldered.
 
beer10t said:
Ok, I am an idiot....

After some research, I figured out where the Fault Codes are shown.

THNKSNOW, when you turn on ignition (not crank over) does the Engine symbol show up on the display and the Yellow Triangle light flash? If so, the display will show a number (Probably a #12 in your case). This is the number it showed me. Crank Position Sensor.
So if you have a mulitmeter, there is a two-wire connector inside the front nose (under hood) that has grey and black wires on sensor side. Disconnect this connection, turn multimeter to Ohms (downward horseshoe symbol) and put test probes on the two connectors. Should read 445 - 545 ohms. If it is a really high number, then the Crank position sensor is shot and you have to buy a new Stator (that has the Crank Position Sensor on it). BAD DESIGN YAMAHA!!!!! $12 part turns into $130+ part.

From your symptoms, this is what it sounds like is the problem. I struggled for hours tearing apart and putting sled back together trying to find problem, just to spend 20 minutes on Google and this site to figure out the fault codes are right on the dash. The Service Manual could have done a better job, or showed an example of where the fault codes will show up.

I have a stator on order from:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-YAMAHA-A ... 06&vxp=mtr

You need to splice in connectors but better than the $290 stock part.

Good luck!!

beer10t

'07 Attak GT - 10K miles. Ditto: Flashing Engine/Warning light with "12" displayed. Thanks for the tip - Stator on its way.
 


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