dooboy600
Extreme
My wheels in the center of the rear suspension are ruined, the rubber came off.
How are you guys fixing this problem?
I don't want to put the cheap plastic yamaha ones back on!!
Somebody told me to machine the shaft so I can use a 6205 bearing, do you use a ski-doo wheel?
Please respond!!???/
Also my slides are worn out in 130 miles of very marginal loose snow, it there a cure for the slides heating in marginal loose snow conditions?
How are you guys fixing this problem?
I don't want to put the cheap plastic yamaha ones back on!!
Somebody told me to machine the shaft so I can use a 6205 bearing, do you use a ski-doo wheel?
Please respond!!???/
Also my slides are worn out in 130 miles of very marginal loose snow, it there a cure for the slides heating in marginal loose snow conditions?
Cruizin
Extreme
Check out this thread. I bought a set of the collars and they are top notch and great instructions to install.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=36758
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=36758
LouderIsBetter
Newbie
I 2nd the Older style wheels/bearings. Instead of buying the collars I had my original collars machined. Works great. Around 900 miles without any problems.
LouderIsBetter
Newbie
I 2nd the Older style wheels/bearings. Instead of buying the collars I had my original collars machined. Works great. Around 900 miles without any problems.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
I had answered your slide question in one of your first threads you posted about you new Nytro.
I told you to get yourself 2 wheel kits or it will eat slides like crazy. Was I right or wrong?? Mount one about 6 inches in front of rear axle wheels & the other 2-2 1/4" behind limiter strap bottom shaft. (right where the sliderail bends)
Another thing I did is opened up all the windows in the track. I have put on 500 miles this season so far, along with the 250 from last season & notice no hyfax wear at all.
I told you to get yourself 2 wheel kits or it will eat slides like crazy. Was I right or wrong?? Mount one about 6 inches in front of rear axle wheels & the other 2-2 1/4" behind limiter strap bottom shaft. (right where the sliderail bends)
Another thing I did is opened up all the windows in the track. I have put on 500 miles this season so far, along with the 250 from last season & notice no hyfax wear at all.
NJNYTRO
Expert
Catman- how did you cut them out- drill- razor ? Was it a pain?
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
NJNYTRO, I used a utilty knife(razor) The kind where the blades snap off in little sections. The heavy duty type also.
If you do it with a razor TAKE YOUR TIME!! Use WD-40 or some other thin oil as a lube & score it the 1st time & then go for the cut on the 2nd pass. I read about doing this here on TY. Other guys have used a 1" OR 1-1/8" hole saw on a high speed drill also. I guess if I were to do it over agian I'd go the drill route for speed/time purposes.
Also, I slipped minorly on just one window & slit the track about 1/4". Won't affect the track negatively, but it pissed me off non the less.
If you do it with a razor TAKE YOUR TIME!! Use WD-40 or some other thin oil as a lube & score it the 1st time & then go for the cut on the 2nd pass. I read about doing this here on TY. Other guys have used a 1" OR 1-1/8" hole saw on a high speed drill also. I guess if I were to do it over agian I'd go the drill route for speed/time purposes.
Also, I slipped minorly on just one window & slit the track about 1/4". Won't affect the track negatively, but it pissed me off non the less.
dooboy600
Extreme
thanks for the replies, yes catman you were right about the wheels, I like the motor but have ruined the 2 inside wheels and replaced them and have now ruined them again as well as the slides. nice motor but never had this problem on my ski-doos, just had motor problems on them.
I guess wheels and slides are cheaper to fix than motors.
I am going to get the machining done so I can use the ski-doo wheels and hopefully the little bit bigger wheels will help with the slide wear as well.
Catman.....can you post some pictures showing where you installed the extra wheels????
thanks
I guess wheels and slides are cheaper to fix than motors.
I am going to get the machining done so I can use the ski-doo wheels and hopefully the little bit bigger wheels will help with the slide wear as well.
Catman.....can you post some pictures showing where you installed the extra wheels????
thanks
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
dooboy600
Extreme
Catman.
Thanks for the pictures, Are the holes already in the rails or do you have to drill new ones?
What size wheels are in front?
And rear?
Thanks for the pictures, Are the holes already in the rails or do you have to drill new ones?
What size wheels are in front?
And rear?
ridesrx
Pro
Catman-
I just put a set of small wheels on my Nyto last weekend. My only slide wear is at the back,not at the bend. It looks like I put mine right about where you put yours. The edge of the mounting spacer is 3.5 inches back from the rubber bump stop.Why did you move them from the original holes you have there closer to the rear wheels?
Dooboy600- yes you have to drill the holes.
I just put a set of small wheels on my Nyto last weekend. My only slide wear is at the back,not at the bend. It looks like I put mine right about where you put yours. The edge of the mounting spacer is 3.5 inches back from the rubber bump stop.Why did you move them from the original holes you have there closer to the rear wheels?
Dooboy600- yes you have to drill the holes.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Dooboy, the fronts are the same as the rears. 2 1/2" roughly. ridesrx answered the drilling question.
ridesrx, I did the front ones for piece of mind I guess. The wear on the Nytros & Vectors seems to be isolated to the rear, but I figured the fronts wouldn't hurt either.
WOW, sharp eye there to notice the original hole I drilled. I moved mine closer forward after noticing a SLIGHT wave in the hyfax in front of the wheels. So, I pulled out the torsion springs to colapse the skid & moved the wheels forward to where they just miss (1/4") the top idlers when the suspension is colapsed. Plus now they are centered over where the "wave" was deveolping.
ridesrx, I did the front ones for piece of mind I guess. The wear on the Nytros & Vectors seems to be isolated to the rear, but I figured the fronts wouldn't hurt either.
WOW, sharp eye there to notice the original hole I drilled. I moved mine closer forward after noticing a SLIGHT wave in the hyfax in front of the wheels. So, I pulled out the torsion springs to colapse the skid & moved the wheels forward to where they just miss (1/4") the top idlers when the suspension is colapsed. Plus now they are centered over where the "wave" was deveolping.
I finally lost one of my wheels at 1800 miles a couple of weeks ago. I stopped at a dealership on the trail and they changed it out for me while I grabbed some lunch. I noticed that they used a solid wheel with no rubber aound the perimeter so it obviously can't delaminate again. Has anyone else used these wheels, and if so how did they hold up? I'm a little concerned that with no rubber the wheel may warp if it takes a good shot.
Cruizin
Extreme
coyotekid said:I finally lost one of my wheels at 1800 miles a couple of weeks ago. I stopped at a dealership on the trail and they changed it out for me while I grabbed some lunch. I noticed that they used a solid wheel with no rubber aound the perimeter so it obviously can't delaminate again. Has anyone else used these wheels, and if so how did they hold up? I'm a little concerned that with no rubber the wheel may warp if it takes a good shot.
Which dealer did the swap? Call and ask them what wheels they used. It sounds like the '05 wheel, which was Yammies original fix. If so they will warp. The '07s are no better. You need to machine the collars so you can use the fatter bearing wheels 6205 instead of 6005.
Cruizin said:Which dealer did the swap? Call and ask them what wheels they used. It sounds like the '05 wheel, which was Yammies original fix. If so they will warp. The '07s are no better. You need to machine the collars so you can use the fatter bearing wheels 6205 instead of 6005.
Thanks Cruizin, thats pretty much what I thought. Moosehead Motorsports in Greenville Jct. did the swap. Where abouts are you in Central Maine? I'm in Oakland.
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