2007 Phazer Fuel Pump Won't Prime + Code 81 Grip Heaters

[74Nitro]

Oh gotcha. So unplugged causes the code, then plugged in with some other problem in the circuit or warmer also causes a code?
Is there any chance that whatever is causing this code 81 to flash is also preventing the fuel pump from operating? My fuel pump is fine, but it won't pump when key is turned.

Yes to the first sentence.
If they shared the same ground it is possible, but not for sure.
There are no other codes displayed?
You have two of these machines?

 

[74Nitro]

The fuse at the starter solenoid is for the fuel pump. The Red/Green wire should have 12 volts. You can back probe it to check. Do the volt test while you have the system calling for power.

 

[Mooseman]

Decided to jump power directly to the fuel pump from the battery, and started the machine and let it run for 5 minutes or so. Soon as I pulled the jumper, she died again since something is not allowing the fuel pump to run.

Did you do this by backprobing into the fuel pump connector or disconnected it and ran it separately? I'm thinking that you were backfeeding power or ground into the circuit that also feeds the injectors and ECU.

The gauge pod staying on after shutdown is very weird. Have you tried the kill switch to turn it off? If it does, I would suspect the ignition switch. Maybe it's the root of all the issues. Maybe try swapping it with the good one.

 

[ZekeRydes]

Did you do this by backprobing into the fuel pump connector or disconnected it and ran it separately? I'm thinking that you were backfeeding power or ground into the circuit that also feeds the injectors and ECU.

The gauge pod staying on after shutdown is very weird. Have you tried the kill switch to turn it off? If it does, I would suspect the ignition switch. Maybe it's the root of all the issues. Maybe try swapping it with the good one.

When I jumped the fuel pump, I disconnected the plug at the fuel pump, and jumped directly from the battery to the pos/neg prongs at the top of fuel pump at the mounting point in the tank.

Yeah the gauge pod thing was strange. Kill switch would not shut it off either. Pulled the key and still powered. I had to disconnect power at the battery to shut it off the first time. The second time when I was trying to troubleshoot that, I was finally able to shut it off by really "snapping" the key off, sort of pressing hard to the shut off key position, so maybe there's a short right at the main switch?

 

[ZekeRydes]

The fuse at the starter solenoid is for the fuel pump. The Red/Green wire should have 12 volts. You can back probe it to check. Do the volt test while you have the system calling for power.

I'll need to try and find the starter solenoid to explore this. Unfortunately need to go work on a weather station today and will have to do that with a single sled! Better one than none!

 

[74Nitro]

I'll need to try and find the starter solenoid to explore this. Unfortunately need to go work on a weather station today and will have to do that with a single sled! Better one than none!

Near the battery.

 

[Mooseman]

Most intriguing. Checking the schematics, power flows from the ignition fuse to the ignition switch and then splits off to the load control relay and to the gauge pod then to the kill switch. You could have the ignition switch on and the kill switch off and power could still flow to the gauge pod if the ECU is still being powered and sending a signal to the pod to stay on via the L/Y wire. The ch wire on the pod and ECU is basically the main ground wire.

I think you should untape the whole wiring loom starting at the ECU and relays checking for any chaffing or mouse chewing through. The fact that it can run but randomly dies could be indicative of this. Something is missing somewhere.

 

[Mooseman]

Or the ignition switch. When the gauge stays on, try unplugging the switch.

 

[ZekeRydes]

Well just an update, it has been a week where I haven't been able to work on chasing my fuel pump wiring gremlin, but I will say that after jumping the fuel pump manually and running the sled for a few minutes until it dropped back to low idle, my code 81 is gone. Now I only have a red temp indicator flashing when I turn the key on...but still no solution on the fuel pump.

I did find corrosion on BOTH sleds at the 4-wire plug connecting the ignition switch. I cut that plug out and hard-wired the wires on both machines, since I didn't have time to order a new ignition switch/keys yet.

Sort of a side question (I'll post as a new thread too), but do you have a good site where you shop for the unique wiring plugs you find in a Phazer? I don't have a Yamaha dealer in town anymore, that I'm aware of. I also need to replace a couple handlebar/wind guards, I have 2 broken ones. Most importantly, I'm going to replace the tracks and suspension (maybe just rear shock for now) on both my sleds. The suspension is too soft (a second rider will compress the shock all the way), and my tracks are original and are long past due for replacement. For the tracks I'm looked and found some from Camso or Composite, but would really like to know if you have a preference on ordering new tracks? Preferred vendor/manufacturer? I've noticed that almost all tracks are 15" wide, and I've read that folks have ripped 1/2" off each side with a table saw as a solution. I'm looking for the tallest lugs I can get, found some that are 144 x 15 x 1.77. Any advice on tracks (or finding other replacement parts) is much appreciated!

 

[Mooseman]

I answered in your other thread on parts.

As far as the suspension being too soft, it is a single rider sled. There may be stiffer spring options available. Maybe torsion springs from a Venture Lite might work. It's a heavier 2up sled.

 

[ZekeRydes]

I answered in your other thread on parts.

As far as the suspension being too soft, it is a single rider sled. There may be stiffer spring options available. Maybe torsion springs from a Venture Lite might work. It's a heavier 2up sled.

Appreciate it.
I should have given a better explanation--I don't ride with 2, unless I'm just carrying someone here to there for some short reason. But the suspension can be compressed by hand easily on the trailer. It doesn't rebound on its own all the way. You feel it bottoming out on bumpy trails at low speed. I suspect the shocks are 17 years old/original, and think that'll help if I replace them. I'll look into Venture Lite, but mainly just thinking I'll start by replacing the rear shock absorber.

 

[Mooseman]

Definitely the shocks can make a difference. I had mine on my RS GT rebuilt and the bottoming stopped. My sons each had a Phazer and had the same problem. Theirs would drag the flap on the ground it rode so low. We did use at the time aftermarket torsion spring adjusters that had even higher settings than the stock ones. It helped a little.

Check to see if your shocks are rebuildable before replacing them.