Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Vansant is great company but the JMR dimple dies are expensive. I got my set (1/2" through) 2") from here http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=910514
ruffryder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Nikolai said:Vansant is great company but the JMR dimple dies are expensive. I got my set (1/2" through) 2") from here http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=910514
cool, you bought them from that guy on pirate! You mind sharing the costs?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
$340 shipped for the 7-piece dimple die kit with holes(bolt-on kit). If you get the bolt-on kit you can use a greenlee punch to pull them. I bought the 5-piece knockout set at the same time but I don't have the PM with that price.
Also, those Roloc discs are pretty expensive, especially up here in AK. I've been doing some looking around and ebay has great deals on them. Here's a link to some of the coarse ones. http://cgi.ebay.com/50-Coarse-3M-Roloc- ... 164ee#shId
Also, those Roloc discs are pretty expensive, especially up here in AK. I've been doing some looking around and ebay has great deals on them. Here's a link to some of the coarse ones. http://cgi.ebay.com/50-Coarse-3M-Roloc- ... 164ee#shId
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
In an effort to drop a few more pounds I replaced the track clips with lightweight ones and only clipped everyother(all the paddles).
My track originally had 96 clips which consisted of 64 flat clips and 32 guide clips. Total weight 4 lbs 11 oz.
48 lightweight flat clips weigh 1 lb 11 oz.
3 lbs for $60 is some of the cheapest weight loss yet. Time will tell if they hold up but Drew's track has the same configuration of l/w clips and he hasn't had any problems. My only concern would be increased rolling resistance but I'm not sure how much of a difference it would actually make on the hill.
My track originally had 96 clips which consisted of 64 flat clips and 32 guide clips. Total weight 4 lbs 11 oz.
48 lightweight flat clips weigh 1 lb 11 oz.
3 lbs for $60 is some of the cheapest weight loss yet. Time will tell if they hold up but Drew's track has the same configuration of l/w clips and he hasn't had any problems. My only concern would be increased rolling resistance but I'm not sure how much of a difference it would actually make on the hill.
birkebeiner
Lifetime Member
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Would these clips eat up the hyfax any faster due to the holes on the "running" surface..??
Alatalo
TY 4 Stroke Master
I had a "shortie" Back Country with those clips, then a 136" Back Country with standard clips. I can not say that I noticed any difference in slider wear. I would be more concerned about every clipped vs. every second clipped, but both methods are obviously used also on OEM tracks.
looks cool Caleb, I'll probably have to do the same since I tore off about half of mine anyways and you cant even get a 144x2.5 anymore. From what I have herd and it makes sense is that the holes fill up with ice and help with rolling resistance, im not sure about the everyother clip though.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
If it seems to have an affect on track speed I'll fully clip it. I noticed on TracksUSA website you can't buy the 144x2.5. I'm hoping they'll release a single ply 144/146 with the new paddle design. Should be another 3 lbs lighter and more flexible.
Nikolai said:If it seems to have an affect on track speed I'll fully clip it. I noticed on TracksUSA website you can't buy the 144x2.5. I'm hoping they'll release a single ply 144/146 with the new paddle design. Should be another 3 lbs lighter and more flexible.
Yeah they dont offer it at WPS anymore and I called Tracksusa, They dont have them anymore. I was going to order a new one since mine has taken a really bad beating so far this year but I may just give it a really good look over and re clip it. But it does have some damage that makes me want to replace it. hopefully they come out with something new, i guess if I have to switch drivers I would like to go to 2.52 so I can run a 136 in the spring.
Its been a brutal year for me as far as wrecking stuff.
Finally Im going to update with what I have been up to, for those who dont know I have been on a vacation since the middle of last month based out of Calgary but I did a trip down to MN to visit with family and hit some lower 48 riding on the way back. Have had some absolutly amazing riding and since im not working or anything I have had some spare time. Other than fixing broken stuff on my sled bent rails, blown team secondary, broken exhaust hangers. I was given a lathe from my grandpa down in the lower 48 so I have been learning how to use it for the most part.
I needed a anti stab kit and I broke 2 last year so I wanted one that was stupid tough. This is what I came up with. I started with some 1 3/16" 6061, turned it down to 25mm on the ends for the bearings and added grooves for c clips to hold them in place. I should have done press fit but you live and learn. Then on the very last 1/8" of the bars its turned down to 5/8" to go inside of the stock arctic cat rail caps with the bolt holes drilled out to 5/8". On the outside are just stubs that are turned down to 25mm with a c clip and a 3/8" hole for the bolt that is threaded into the inner piece. Once again I should have done a shoulder instead of a c clip on those but im new at this stuff. Then I used 6305 bearings as my anti stab wheels since they are about 2 1/2" od they were big enough that I didnt need any sort of wheel over them. Im sure I will make another one a little lighter and probably machine some wheels but this was my first real project on the lathe so im learning and I was in a hurry to get it done. But im sure it will be really stout as well since I do hit alot of stuff.
I needed a anti stab kit and I broke 2 last year so I wanted one that was stupid tough. This is what I came up with. I started with some 1 3/16" 6061, turned it down to 25mm on the ends for the bearings and added grooves for c clips to hold them in place. I should have done press fit but you live and learn. Then on the very last 1/8" of the bars its turned down to 5/8" to go inside of the stock arctic cat rail caps with the bolt holes drilled out to 5/8". On the outside are just stubs that are turned down to 25mm with a c clip and a 3/8" hole for the bolt that is threaded into the inner piece. Once again I should have done a shoulder instead of a c clip on those but im new at this stuff. Then I used 6305 bearings as my anti stab wheels since they are about 2 1/2" od they were big enough that I didnt need any sort of wheel over them. Im sure I will make another one a little lighter and probably machine some wheels but this was my first real project on the lathe so im learning and I was in a hurry to get it done. But im sure it will be really stout as well since I do hit alot of stuff.
Now that im back up in Calgary I decided I needed to add a little OFT to my Girlfriends rev so I decided to make her a 2 wheel kit and fit it with some OFT 7" wheels. Now since im on the road working my way back to AK I was working with the lathe on the floor in the back of a cube van but oh well its all in good fun.
Here I started with 1 1/8" 6061 then I turned down the ends to 25mm (the older rev's are stock with a 25mm axle not a 20mm like most sleds) I left the middle 1 1/8" similar to the design of the OFT big nuts axle as where most 2 wheel kits have just a sleeve to space the wheels apart but offering little strength.
Then I drilled and tapped the ends
Now the axle is ready for install
I used all OEM spacers for the install so that it was very simple and if new stuff was ever needed it is as easy as ordering new ski doo parts.
Installed!
I decided to cap it off with some slightly modified OFT big nutz even though it does not offer the added strength like in there kit it just plain looks cool even though they are only acting as washers.
Here I started with 1 1/8" 6061 then I turned down the ends to 25mm (the older rev's are stock with a 25mm axle not a 20mm like most sleds) I left the middle 1 1/8" similar to the design of the OFT big nuts axle as where most 2 wheel kits have just a sleeve to space the wheels apart but offering little strength.
Then I drilled and tapped the ends
Now the axle is ready for install
I used all OEM spacers for the install so that it was very simple and if new stuff was ever needed it is as easy as ordering new ski doo parts.
Installed!
I decided to cap it off with some slightly modified OFT big nutz even though it does not offer the added strength like in there kit it just plain looks cool even though they are only acting as washers.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Jealous of lathe
swelly
Lifetime Member
Nikolai said:Jealous of lathe
No kiddin, lathe and a vertical mill, that is all I want for now.........................
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
Nikolai said:In an effort to drop a few more pounds I replaced the track clips with lightweight ones and only clipped everyother(all the paddles).
My track originally had 96 clips which consisted of 64 flat clips and 32 guide clips. Total weight 4 lbs 11 oz.
48 lightweight flat clips weigh 1 lb 11 oz.
3 lbs for $60 is some of the cheapest weight loss yet. Time will tell if they hold up but Drew's track has the same configuration of l/w clips and he hasn't had any problems. My only concern would be increased rolling resistance but I'm not sure how much of a difference it would actually make on the hill.
I forget which track I was running that had clips with the holes in them like these. I think, if anything, they help with hyfax life. The holes seem to fill with snow and pack to ice. The few times I've actually stopped to check them out, the ice will be built up higher than the metal. I like them.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I ended up bringing the wires down through a new hole in the console, it was too tight of a bend to bring them through the factory opening. The hole isn't round because it has to fit the plug through it. Cut off the factory gauge pod and replaced with screen until the mesh hood is done.
Started on the mesh hood. This is going to suck, the Nytro has to many odd curves, lol.
Started on the mesh hood. This is going to suck, the Nytro has to many odd curves, lol.
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