Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Lifted up the front of the sled so the head was vertical(prevent shavings from getting in the motor) before tapping it for the oil return.
The factory hole is so close to 7/16 there's no need to drill it larger for the 1/4" NPT tap. Works perfect and is relatively quick.
Oil return done.
When I removed the thermostat a couple years ago I just made a plug for the bottom of the thermostat housing. It was ugly & bulky and had been bugging me since I did it so I finally took care of it today. Cut the bottom outlet off and welded a plate over the hole then ground it all smooth.
Original style.
The petite version.
Size comparison. The housing on the right with the thermostat and my plug is almost 14 ounces. The one on the left is 7 ounces. Less clutter and parts in the sled as well.
I got the turbo all bolted together and in the sled for good, coolant lines hooked up, header installed, and some other misc. items. I'll have the charge tube wrapped up in the morning then the skid and track go in.
The factory hole is so close to 7/16 there's no need to drill it larger for the 1/4" NPT tap. Works perfect and is relatively quick.
Oil return done.
When I removed the thermostat a couple years ago I just made a plug for the bottom of the thermostat housing. It was ugly & bulky and had been bugging me since I did it so I finally took care of it today. Cut the bottom outlet off and welded a plate over the hole then ground it all smooth.
Original style.
The petite version.
Size comparison. The housing on the right with the thermostat and my plug is almost 14 ounces. The one on the left is 7 ounces. Less clutter and parts in the sled as well.
I got the turbo all bolted together and in the sled for good, coolant lines hooked up, header installed, and some other misc. items. I'll have the charge tube wrapped up in the morning then the skid and track go in.
LSXM3
Expert
Looking good man cant wait to see the final product
kennyspec
Expert
Are you running a inline pump for your oil return?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
No, the return oil relies on a vacuum, same as the Push kit. The Push website explains it well.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Finished the charge tube. When we did it the first time it ended up crooked and was also pushing on the exhaust shield(which I didn't want to butcher). This was driving me crazy so I cut off the lower elbow and redid it. It now clears the heat shield just fine and lines up perfectly with the upper charge tube.
First thing I needed to do was cut in my diverter valve adapter. The adapter itself was too short so I had to weld a piece of 1-1/4" tube to it first.
Test fitting the front at the same time.
Adapter welded to the charge tube.
Charge tube with the new elbow welded on.
Nailed the adapter hole.
Synapse diverter valve.
Here's a before pic of the front.
And after. I trimmed the ears of the back of the heat shield since the extra bolts and nutserts aren't needed and I didn't want it overlapping my block off plate.
Everything under the tunnel is done minus the oil supply line. I'm working on getting a track and skid in it now.
First thing I needed to do was cut in my diverter valve adapter. The adapter itself was too short so I had to weld a piece of 1-1/4" tube to it first.
Test fitting the front at the same time.
Adapter welded to the charge tube.
Charge tube with the new elbow welded on.
Nailed the adapter hole.
Synapse diverter valve.
Here's a before pic of the front.
And after. I trimmed the ears of the back of the heat shield since the extra bolts and nutserts aren't needed and I didn't want it overlapping my block off plate.
Everything under the tunnel is done minus the oil supply line. I'm working on getting a track and skid in it now.
Looking good Caleb.
I think you are doing a heck of a job on your sled! I'm a bit concerned you are trying to do everything too good, too tight, and too close of tolerances. I realize you've changed and improved a great many things but most of it is untested. My Vector chassis flexed so much that my engine would make contact with the front of the tunnel and slightly dent it. That was from XC racing and aggressive riding. I know you like to play ride and jump so just keep in mind things are dynamic and like to move around. I'd hate to see an oil line get chaffed, leak and ruin your motor.
My Polaris IQR looks like it was built in someones garage but all the sloppyness and loose tolerances, rough welds and unfinished nature of the sled just work. Kind of like a AK-47 compared to an AR-15. On the range in clean conditions an AR-15 works great. Get it into the sand, mud, dirt, etc; real life conditions, the loose tolerances of the AK-47 work better.
My Polaris IQR looks like it was built in someones garage but all the sloppyness and loose tolerances, rough welds and unfinished nature of the sled just work. Kind of like a AK-47 compared to an AR-15. On the range in clean conditions an AR-15 works great. Get it into the sand, mud, dirt, etc; real life conditions, the loose tolerances of the AK-47 work better.
hugger70mtnmax
Expert
I don't see there being much chance for too much flex in this chassis the way it is built.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Even without the skid bolted in it's extremely hard for me to get the tunnel/bulkhead to flex at all if I try and twist it from the rear bumper. Flex will be minimal. Both oil lines will get rubber grommets around them. Everything is mounted with Adel clamps to prevent stress at any weld joints or AN fittings. The turbo & header are mounted rigid but the flex joints allow movement for the motor.
The only thing that concerns me the slightest bit are the coolant lines since I used .035 but I'll keep an eye on them. I didn't want to make the holes in the front plate any larger than neccessary to retain as much strength in the corner bends as possible.
The only thing that concerns me the slightest bit are the coolant lines since I used .035 but I'll keep an eye on them. I didn't want to make the holes in the front plate any larger than neccessary to retain as much strength in the corner bends as possible.
Its really hard to say. I'm not in any way suggesting there are problems, just look at Ski-doo with the XP. That sled was race tested, designed on CAD software, and they used finite element analysis to find the weak parts before the 1st prototype was ever built and it still had issues when it first came out.
Just saying that good enough could save some time and frustration. No sense in trying to make something perfect if on the first or second ride things don't work out as planned or ice forms in some area, expands and pushes something into a delicate part.
Caleb's got some great ideas on this sled. I'm looking forward to reading the first ride report!
Just saying that good enough could save some time and frustration. No sense in trying to make something perfect if on the first or second ride things don't work out as planned or ice forms in some area, expands and pushes something into a delicate part.
Caleb's got some great ideas on this sled. I'm looking forward to reading the first ride report!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Trust me, I'll be keeping a VERY close eye on everything the first couple rides. Good enough would save me a lot of time & frustration but I can't get my self to settle for good enough haha.
I'm just trying to pass along what I learned the hard way in building my house. We didn't have a professional set of drawings and I'd get obsessed with this or that trying to make it as perfect as I could. Then a couple steps later I'd find out I made it too tight of a fit and the damn door wouldn't fit into the opening because it was ever so slightly too tight or the hole I cut in the T&G wouldn't fit over the electrical box because it was just a hair too tight. It drove me crazy and I'd get so pissed and frustrated to have start over.
As you are progressing along there are going to be lots of things like body panels, wiring looms, etc that probably aren't going to fit exactly how you had in mind. In the meantime the season is ticking away and you'll want to be out riding and the project that started off as fun becomes a burden. Just like my house still doesn't have all the trim installed, you don't want to be sweating the small stuff in the beginning and then just have to slap the body panels on at the end so you can enjoy our epic spring riding and then fight snow getting on your belt or into your intake.
It's just funny how as time passes by, the little things a guy obsessed about in the beginning don't seem to have been as important as he first thought.
As you are progressing along there are going to be lots of things like body panels, wiring looms, etc that probably aren't going to fit exactly how you had in mind. In the meantime the season is ticking away and you'll want to be out riding and the project that started off as fun becomes a burden. Just like my house still doesn't have all the trim installed, you don't want to be sweating the small stuff in the beginning and then just have to slap the body panels on at the end so you can enjoy our epic spring riding and then fight snow getting on your belt or into your intake.
It's just funny how as time passes by, the little things a guy obsessed about in the beginning don't seem to have been as important as he first thought.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I feel ya. I've been remodeling my house for a little over 2 years. Sheetrock was the absolute worst until you learn that mud and tape can hide just about anything. I paid to have quite a few things done I knew would drive me crazy like all the tile work in my bathrooms.
There may be quite a few things on the sled that don't work out and I'm not expecting a trouble free sled. I didn't powdercoat the subframe so I can easily add engine mount reinforcements if I need them or extra tabs for the body work, ect.
I'll never be able to get myself to lower my build quality to an IQR level though.
There may be quite a few things on the sled that don't work out and I'm not expecting a trouble free sled. I didn't powdercoat the subframe so I can easily add engine mount reinforcements if I need them or extra tabs for the body work, ect.
I'll never be able to get myself to lower my build quality to an IQR level though.
Nikolai said:
Lol, that IQR I had was horrible. Try jigging one once
I know, I couldn't believe how rough mine was for a brand new sled. I think they used a wood rasp to shape some of the body work. But, at the end of the day the sled works really, really well.
Your Nytro is looking to have some amazing potential!
Your Nytro is looking to have some amazing potential!