couch
Expert
Yam should have hired you and shot the R&D team that decided to go with Cat! A boosted triple four stroke under 475 ... only 50 lbs heavier than 800 ProRMK but more power and stronger! WOW!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
A 2014 155 Pro is listed at 417 lbs, so they have 32 lbs on me, 15 of which is the turbo.
hugger70mtnmax
Expert
It would be interesting to see what your weight distribution is like. It seems like you have lost most of your weight off of the front end where it really needs to come from.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Are you going to chase any more weight on this sled or are you saving it for the next one ?
If you are, what places are you looking at ?
If you are, what places are you looking at ?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
There are a few things left I want to do.
- aluminum bolts
- move the brake caliper to the other side of the mounting ears, slide the rotor over and shorten the jack shaft. Both for rotating mass and to slim down the side for tighter body panels.
- Titanium drilled brake rotor to experiment with.
- one piece body shroud to incorporate the hood and side panels. This could potentially drop around 3 lbs. and I want tight fitting plastics to make it appear "thinner"
- the newest Ice Age 2-wheel rear axle which is incredibly light
- lightweight ski bushings with a short bolt in each end instead of the big through bolt (if possible)
- get rid of my modified t-stat housing and make a cleaner one from scratch with the fill cap incorporated.
I'm sure I'll think of more. By now it should be pretty clear that all the small things really do add up in the end, even It seems a little borderline crazy. I'd like to get this one around 435 lbs dry and and use it as an R&D sled for lightweight cat skid parts, a-arm designs, Ti brake rotor ect.
- aluminum bolts
- move the brake caliper to the other side of the mounting ears, slide the rotor over and shorten the jack shaft. Both for rotating mass and to slim down the side for tighter body panels.
- Titanium drilled brake rotor to experiment with.
- one piece body shroud to incorporate the hood and side panels. This could potentially drop around 3 lbs. and I want tight fitting plastics to make it appear "thinner"
- the newest Ice Age 2-wheel rear axle which is incredibly light
- lightweight ski bushings with a short bolt in each end instead of the big through bolt (if possible)
- get rid of my modified t-stat housing and make a cleaner one from scratch with the fill cap incorporated.
I'm sure I'll think of more. By now it should be pretty clear that all the small things really do add up in the end, even It seems a little borderline crazy. I'd like to get this one around 435 lbs dry and and use it as an R&D sled for lightweight cat skid parts, a-arm designs, Ti brake rotor ect.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
how about the beltdrive thats being developed ?
lightweight driveshafts in titanium ? Ti bolts,
The arctic trihub rear wheels must be lighter than billet ones ?
Are you going to weight it full of fuel ?
I must thank you for the well documented build that ive really have enjoyed reading !
Now drive and enjoy it and give us ridning reports with lots of pics and videos !
lightweight driveshafts in titanium ? Ti bolts,
The arctic trihub rear wheels must be lighter than billet ones ?
Are you going to weight it full of fuel ?
I must thank you for the well documented build that ive really have enjoyed reading !
Now drive and enjoy it and give us ridning reports with lots of pics and videos !
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Probably wont do too much Ti stuff on this sled. I need to focus on my retirement account for awhile.
ruffryder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Nikolai said:
You say that like you can control it... lol
Anyways, couldn't ti go into your "precious metals" part of your retirement planning? ha ha ha
Alatalo
TY 4 Stroke Master
I might have to dig deep in some boxes in my garage to help you shave couple of more grams from those front shocks. I am dead sure I have lighter springs than that and also some other exotic parts...
Alatalo said:
Doubt it ... The springs are Ti
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I think hes talking about Ti springs with less coils. The HCR springs are almost 2" longer than they need to be. I like where his head is at.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
After mentioning I had a 449 lb Nytro that needed to get below 440 lbs, Brock @ Ice Age was kind enough to ship me one of their newest axles. Should have it early next week. He weighed it for me and I think I recall him telling .65 lbs. I also ordered the newest cat rear wheels that bolt together. Should take the skid to 39 lbs and the sled to 447. Only seven more pounds to go.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Nice one Ice age !
Do anyone know if there is a lighter turbo Nytro out there ?
I think you have a good shot at asking around for some sponsors, you have a excellent build thread that gives exposure to the products.
Psychosled : we want to se your beltdrive system on this sled.
Is there any other products out there that would shed some weight ?
Do anyone know if there is a lighter turbo Nytro out there ?
I think you have a good shot at asking around for some sponsors, you have a excellent build thread that gives exposure to the products.
Psychosled : we want to se your beltdrive system on this sled.
Is there any other products out there that would shed some weight ?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
My first real ride was Saturday and the sled absolutely rips. I did have a couple issues though. The first one was that I lost the right upper idler wheel twice (snap ring popped out and the idler rolled outside the track). After fixing it twice in the field I called it quits and headed home. This is not something I wanted to deal with again so Friday night I made a couple spacers that fit tight against the snap ring. The spacers are 1-1/8" 4130 with .063 plate fused on the top.
Since I had lost the idler wheels a couple times I wanted to pull the skid for inspection. I found the BDX rear swing arm to be bent back at the shock mount(between the reinforcements). I'm not sure if it's from the idler wheel sliding outside the track a few times, or the fact that they're made in China with most likely poor quality 4130. The tube is .058 and I have an extremely hard time believing 1-1/4" .058 aircraft grade 4130 would bend like that. Either way it needed to get fixed. I had some extra 1-1/8" .049 on hand so I cut a sleeve, greased it up, and pressed it in the tube. It went in surprisingly easy (also why I doubt the quality of the chromoly they use). Regardless, it won't bend again.
Now doubting the quality and strength of the BDX parts, I figured adding an extra cross shaft wouldn't hurt.
The other issue I had was difficult steering. I like the simplicity of direct steering, but I think not having any linkages or some kind of a steering rack makes steering more difficult. I swapped my 4" riser for a 5" and tightened up the front track shock spring quite a bit and that helped a lot. It also could be that I haven't ridden all year and my sledding strength is non existent.
I rode again Today and didn't have any problems. Despite the slightly awkward steering the sled absolutely rips. I do have to run the track tight or it starts coming off the drivers enough to rub the front cooler. Looking forward to next weekend
Since I had lost the idler wheels a couple times I wanted to pull the skid for inspection. I found the BDX rear swing arm to be bent back at the shock mount(between the reinforcements). I'm not sure if it's from the idler wheel sliding outside the track a few times, or the fact that they're made in China with most likely poor quality 4130. The tube is .058 and I have an extremely hard time believing 1-1/4" .058 aircraft grade 4130 would bend like that. Either way it needed to get fixed. I had some extra 1-1/8" .049 on hand so I cut a sleeve, greased it up, and pressed it in the tube. It went in surprisingly easy (also why I doubt the quality of the chromoly they use). Regardless, it won't bend again.
Now doubting the quality and strength of the BDX parts, I figured adding an extra cross shaft wouldn't hurt.
The other issue I had was difficult steering. I like the simplicity of direct steering, but I think not having any linkages or some kind of a steering rack makes steering more difficult. I swapped my 4" riser for a 5" and tightened up the front track shock spring quite a bit and that helped a lot. It also could be that I haven't ridden all year and my sledding strength is non existent.
I rode again Today and didn't have any problems. Despite the slightly awkward steering the sled absolutely rips. I do have to run the track tight or it starts coming off the drivers enough to rub the front cooler. Looking forward to next weekend
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Nikolai:
Did you install those wavy washers behind the upper idlers? Initially I didn't install them, and there was enough side to side movement to pop the snap ring out of place. I installed one wavy washer (cause I couldn't fit 2), and problem solved.
Mind you, your solution should work too!
BDX eh? What a surprise!
Great to see you ripping on that beast....
OTM
Did you install those wavy washers behind the upper idlers? Initially I didn't install them, and there was enough side to side movement to pop the snap ring out of place. I installed one wavy washer (cause I couldn't fit 2), and problem solved.
Mind you, your solution should work too!
BDX eh? What a surprise!
Great to see you ripping on that beast....
OTM