Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The handlebars are Fly Mini bends cut down with 45* hooks. They're slightly wider than the factory bars.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Anything happening here ? riding report ? anything to adjust or fix ? whats next ? 
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Not much to report at this time. I was an absolute idiot last weekend and put a check valve in the oil breather (in an attempt to keep the oil in). Needless to say it only took about 5 minutes for the pressure to build up enough to blow the oil line off the front of the motor. It expanded my oil tank just enough that it cracked my 3 year old epoxy job on the lower bung so I had to find another oil tank. Still can't believe I did that but Im thankful the hose gave before something worse happened.
I wanted to find another broken oil tank so I wouldn't have to buy a new one and Andrew had one that worked perfect. Plated the upper mounting bracket, and then epoxied the bungs and the seam all the way around the tank. My first tank I had epoxied lasted about 3 years/3k miles until last weekend when it expanded. I expect this one to last even longer.
Yesterday and today I worked on an oil catch system I hope will retain most of the oil lost during a rollover. I wanted to keep the reservoir down low but if it doesn't work well then I'll end up moving it underneath the body panel above the electronics. Started out by welding the 1.75"x6.5" oil reservoir. Drilled a 15/16" hole in the top and used a 5/8"x1" grommet for a tight fit.
The I.D. of the small filter is about 5/8" so I drilled through it and took a piece of .035 5/8" aluminum tube and drilled a bunch of 1/4" holes that would be inline with the mesh. It breathes fine blowing through it and I'm hoping there's just enough resistance from the tube & mesh that the majority of oil will flow into the reservoir.
It's held on with velcro and the zip tie. If I need oil in the field I can cut the zip tie and slide the reservoir off the 5/8" tube (that goes into the grommet) and pour it back into the oil tank.
I honestly have no idea how well it is going to work but I'm riding tomorrow after work so I'll find out. I'll intentionally put it on it's side to properly test it and I'll be sure to post my results.
I ordered a couple aluminum weld on filler necks to make a new coolant reservoir with everything built in so I can get rid of the factory t-stat housing and coolant fill housing that I have now. I have to go to Portland, Oregon next weekend to help my sister with a plumbing emergency on her house but as soon as I get back I'll build the new mini coolant ressi and post pics.
I have big plans for this summer if I can find the time to make them happen.
I wanted to find another broken oil tank so I wouldn't have to buy a new one and Andrew had one that worked perfect. Plated the upper mounting bracket, and then epoxied the bungs and the seam all the way around the tank. My first tank I had epoxied lasted about 3 years/3k miles until last weekend when it expanded. I expect this one to last even longer.
Yesterday and today I worked on an oil catch system I hope will retain most of the oil lost during a rollover. I wanted to keep the reservoir down low but if it doesn't work well then I'll end up moving it underneath the body panel above the electronics. Started out by welding the 1.75"x6.5" oil reservoir. Drilled a 15/16" hole in the top and used a 5/8"x1" grommet for a tight fit.
The I.D. of the small filter is about 5/8" so I drilled through it and took a piece of .035 5/8" aluminum tube and drilled a bunch of 1/4" holes that would be inline with the mesh. It breathes fine blowing through it and I'm hoping there's just enough resistance from the tube & mesh that the majority of oil will flow into the reservoir.
It's held on with velcro and the zip tie. If I need oil in the field I can cut the zip tie and slide the reservoir off the 5/8" tube (that goes into the grommet) and pour it back into the oil tank.
I honestly have no idea how well it is going to work but I'm riding tomorrow after work so I'll find out. I'll intentionally put it on it's side to properly test it and I'll be sure to post my results.
I ordered a couple aluminum weld on filler necks to make a new coolant reservoir with everything built in so I can get rid of the factory t-stat housing and coolant fill housing that I have now. I have to go to Portland, Oregon next weekend to help my sister with a plumbing emergency on her house but as soon as I get back I'll build the new mini coolant ressi and post pics.
I have big plans for this summer if I can find the time to make them happen.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Nice !
looking forward to your next mods.
looking forward to your next mods.
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2005
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- 669
- Location
- Lewiston, ID
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 YZ450FX1 Moto-Trax 137 Mountain Kit
Nikoli and/or Woodsrider:
Can you explain why it might be necessary to epoxy the seam and bungs of the oil tank? What does this do for you?
Also, for those of us flatlanders without rollover valves, can you explain how your catch systems work? Thanks in advance for the replies.
Can you explain why it might be necessary to epoxy the seam and bungs of the oil tank? What does this do for you?
Also, for those of us flatlanders without rollover valves, can you explain how your catch systems work? Thanks in advance for the replies.
I know on mine there are small cracks? But nothing leaking out. Or showing a sign of leaking. But hey better safe than sorry
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
It's common for the lower bung (that holds the filter) to crack at the tank. Happened to my first oil tank and also to the one in the pics I got from Drew. I would epoxy any Nytro I had, even new. The rest of the bungs and the seam were done for added security.
Why dont you just make one? U seem to definatly have the talent to make your own.
Gotcha. 
So how does your oil catch work. Looking at the pics of your installation, I can't figure out how oil flows into it in the event of a rollover.
So how does your oil catch work. Looking at the pics of your installation, I can't figure out how oil flows into it in the event of a rollover.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
It was more for when it was on its side. It doesn't work very well. I'll be rerouting it up above the tank.
Any kind of special epoxy? Or will a JB weld kind work well, in your opinion.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
natedawgedog
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Nikolai said:
ive been thinking of options for a passive rov system since my rov was drawing too much power and causing the engine to shutdown while at high rpms, and this is what Im thinking... it would let the oil drain in a normal fashion while rightside up then when upside down the neck in the box would keep the oil from draining out into your engine bay... just an idea Ive come up with over the last couple days, dont have a cad program but I do have paint on my computer so thats what I made my idea on.
Attachments
thephast1
Extreme
Very creative, I'm sure I'm missing something, but how will your design work better than a rollover valve?