• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

2012 AK sled build

Finally placed my order for aluminum fasteners. Went through OPP Racing since they have the largest variety of sizes and LighTech bolts have a good reputation. I only stuck with the M8 and a larger due to cost vs. weight savings except for a couple M6's for the oil tank. Here's a copy of what I ordered and for where.

Qty.
2 - 52716 LighTech Hex Flange Head Anodized Aluminum Screw - M6x10 (1.0) [Indigo] oil tank
4 - 52806 LighTech Hex Flange Head Anodized Aluminum Screw - M8x15 (1.25) [Indigo] clutch side driveshaft bearing plate
2 - 52812 LighTech Hex Flange Head Anodized Aluminum Screw - M8x20 (1.25) [Indigo] clutch side driveshaft bearing plate that also holds the speedo sensor
2 - 52818 LighTech Hex Flange Head Anodized Aluminum Screw - M8x25 (1.25) [Indigo] jackshaft bearing plate
5 - 52842 LighTech Hex Flange Head Anodized Aluminum Screw - M8x45 (1.25) [Indigo] chaincase cover
2 - 52848 LighTech Hex Flange Head Anodized Aluminum Screw - M8x50 (1.25) [Indigo] steering post block
1 - 52878 LighTech Hex Flange Head Anodized Aluminum Screw - M10x25 (1.25) [Indigo] speedo gear
2 - 53893 LighTech Aluminum Anodized Flange Nuts - M8 [Indigo] steering post block
 

Are those alubolts even near to steel when it comes on strenght? I heard that these need to be tightend with care and right moment. Even so, I thought that I may use some alubolts too, but only secondary parts that are not going to make any catastrophys if they broke.
 
Jakelfin said:
Are those alubolts even near to steel when it comes on strenght? I heard that these need to be tightend with care and right moment. Even so, I thought that I may use some alubolts too, but only secondary parts that are not going to make any catastrophys if they broke.
Click to expand...

They do have their own torque specs and tightening technique which is discussed on LighTech's website. I'm not too worried about them breaking, they aren't replacing any bolts that are subject to a high load. 7075 is pretty strong stuff.

Been slacking on the body work but I spent 3 hours tonight with another roll of duct tape and multiple pieces of cardboard. I ran out of tape, but the oil tank side is about done. I put a layer of cardboard over the oil tank and brake rotor/caliper so everything has some breathing room. I'll finish taping tomorrow but I think with the shape of the cardboard now it's going to look pretty good. I got rid of the recesses and tried to shape it to reduce drag in the snow.






The old bodywork went behind all the tubes, the new body work will wrap over the front of them. I'll get a much tighter fit and won't have to silicone any gaps like before.


I'm going to try and get the clutch side done tomorrow.
 
So the duct taping/cardboard work is about 95% done I think.

I wrapped the clutches with four layers of cardboard, should end up with at least an inch of clearance with the finished panels.


Adding the outer piece


Added a little filler to get rid of the sharp inside corner.


Clutch side pretty much done.



Just clears the speedo gear.


Did a little more work to the other side.





And a front shot.


I know it's picture heavy, but I wanted to get opinions on how it looks before I wrap it in fiberglass. I picked up another 16 sq. ft. of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin today. I'll finish the rest of the prep work Friday night and then Saturday I'm hoping to glass it.
 
I like where you are going with this, should be quite light, but who about having the top of the clutch side angle up to match the brake side more? Would give you room for a spare belt there and shouldn't affect the weight/snow drag much at all. Just my opinion of course, I can't wait to see this finished and the final weight!
 
I would make it symmetrical and kind of "aerodynamical", like mesh hoods. I think it would be even lighter if you make it without all bends and corners, also snow wouldnt build up so easily everywhere and that is all away from driving weight. Maybe try it? Just bend blanket or something over the front end and tighten it. If you want it to stay in shape, just wet it with resin and let it dry. You can laminate over that when it is hardened or just put some urethane there where you want to shape it more. Then just put tape over urethane and you can laminate over that. I can see that your sled could get just two piece hood or three with two small underside panels and one big overhood. When you make it from carbon, I think it should be around 4-5lbs, maybe even lighter. Srx kevlar hood weighted around 6lbs, so it would be much lighter from carbon.
 
Well, I decided to keep it as pictured and glassed over it Saturday. Did two layers of cloth and three in a few places. I'm going to start shaping with the Bondo today. I'm having some computer problems so I won't be able to post pics until Monday after work. It looks good glassed though.
 
Looks smooth! What do you think that will weight? How many sections are you thinking to get it on and off?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top