Last year I had a cold start issue with my 13 Apex. I believe it was caused by a weak battery that just couldn’t crank fast enough. Put in a higher 310 CCA battery and that seemed to have solved the problem. This year my coldest start was in -10 and fired right up. Rode my sled this past Sunday started up as usual no issue. Sled sat 2 days then went to start, wasn’t very cold around 20 degrees. Went to start and almost fired, mad the fatal mistake and let off the key before the engine was running. Tried to start a few more times and was sputtering and could smell the fuel and knew it wasn’t gonna start. Waited 15 minutes went back out with a jump pack since battery was slightly wearing down with the excessive cracking and it fired up. Rode for the day no and issues and fired right up the next morning.
I have a few questions
1) I know that staying on the key is crucial when starting cold and don’t let up till the engine starts. When it didn’t start I believe I turned the key back to off then the fuel pump cycled again and I tried to start. By recycling the fuel pump again is this just dumping more fuel into the cylinders and creating a worse condition? Instead of turning the key to off and recycling the fuel pump would it be better to just try to crank again from the start position?
2)I have heard some suggest valve clearance adjustment for higher mileage engines. Mine just flipped 16,000 miles. Could this be a possibility why it’s getting a little crankier with cold starts?
This sled has never been a hard starter until last year and I’ve owned it since 2013. I had a really old battery in it so I’m sure that’s what happened last year. Yesterday’s flooding issue had me scratching my head as to what happened since I thought the issue was fixed. Hoping just a minor hiccup and not future cold starting issues. This thing has been solid. I have no interest in buying anything else new or switching brands.
I have a few questions
1) I know that staying on the key is crucial when starting cold and don’t let up till the engine starts. When it didn’t start I believe I turned the key back to off then the fuel pump cycled again and I tried to start. By recycling the fuel pump again is this just dumping more fuel into the cylinders and creating a worse condition? Instead of turning the key to off and recycling the fuel pump would it be better to just try to crank again from the start position?
2)I have heard some suggest valve clearance adjustment for higher mileage engines. Mine just flipped 16,000 miles. Could this be a possibility why it’s getting a little crankier with cold starts?
This sled has never been a hard starter until last year and I’ve owned it since 2013. I had a really old battery in it so I’m sure that’s what happened last year. Yesterday’s flooding issue had me scratching my head as to what happened since I thought the issue was fixed. Hoping just a minor hiccup and not future cold starting issues. This thing has been solid. I have no interest in buying anything else new or switching brands.
DARKMAN
Extreme
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2023
- Messages
- 58
- Age
- 43
- Location
- Harris, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2013 APEX SE
1981 ET340 "Frankenticer"
1982 SS540
1981 ET250 Mod Oval/Lemans Racer
When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs? I would start there, but sounds like a fluke if it was starting well after the new battery.
Replaced plugs with the battery
