How does your track look as far as center with tunnel? Was one pad wore more than other? Thinking if one of the clips came off driveshaft it could move over and pad would be rubbing all the time.
Phazer2Viper
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I realize this is old but I was wondering if you had an update. I think I have the same . I just got a 15 ltx dx. my light was on today when i started it even tho i wasnt using the brakes. i was able to push the lever back and the light went back to the running light. It seemed to ride ok. I did 4o miles with out a problem. My question is Are my brakes seized up or is the light just not coming on when i release the lever?
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combz
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so sled season just started up again..i took my sled into the dealer for them to replace the master cylinder which they did, and bled the brakes and said i should be good to go. I took it for a drive and within the first 5km i noticed the brakes were still extremely hot without even touching the brake lever. I have no idea how hot it's supposed to get normally, but this still doesn't seem normal especially for not even using the brake once during the tests. It was so hot i couldn't even touch it. The only thing which may throw off troubleshooting or help..was i moved the brake reservoire to a more level position on my handle bars on the trails..drove it again with no brake use and then check the rotor..it was cold to the touch..which to me seems normal. I thought this may have fied it but next km or two tested again, and it was hot hot hot again. I took it back to th e dealer and told them it's still doing it. They said they replaced eveyrthing they could on the brake system and have no idea how to fix it. They took it for a week and called me back and said to pick it up because they have no idea what to do and it doesn't appear to be occurring on the chair hoist testing.
I literally have no idea what to do now...it won't be long before it cooks a bearing or catches fire again at the heat it's putting off. I assume they put the correct fluid in so i doubt that is the issue. Can anyone do a test for me with a temper lazer gun to check normal temp of the rotor when not using the break? I'm going to do the same thing and obtain the temp of my rotor and get go pro footage so they can see i'm not lying.
I'm extremely frustrated and now my sled is off warranty and the problem is still persisting and yamaha is saying there is nothing they can do because the dealer didn't enter it as a claim. So basically i'm hoping ty4s can help me solve this.
Brake pads are brand new so i don't see wearing on one side more the the other. They said they checked for warped shatfs and everything seemed fine.
What else can i do??
I literally have no idea what to do now...it won't be long before it cooks a bearing or catches fire again at the heat it's putting off. I assume they put the correct fluid in so i doubt that is the issue. Can anyone do a test for me with a temper lazer gun to check normal temp of the rotor when not using the break? I'm going to do the same thing and obtain the temp of my rotor and get go pro footage so they can see i'm not lying.
I'm extremely frustrated and now my sled is off warranty and the problem is still persisting and yamaha is saying there is nothing they can do because the dealer didn't enter it as a claim. So basically i'm hoping ty4s can help me solve this.
Brake pads are brand new so i don't see wearing on one side more the the other. They said they checked for warped shatfs and everything seemed fine.
What else can i do??
grizztracks
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check the brake line routing to make sure it's not restricted or being pinched off.
Have you had the chaincase apart? Shot in dark here but if clip was off bottom gear whole shaft could slide over on brake side. Also I would want to check the driveshaft itself on brake side. The bearing can spin on shaft and severely wear it out. This could also affect disc alignment to caliper causing heat.
Yogi_12
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This is a shot in the dark....guess.
I had a Honda Accord once....calliper used to stick....put new one one......no difference......turned out the flex hose was collapsed inside. So using the brake caused enough pressure to push piston out......but the fluid wouldn't return to let the piston go back. The flex hose looked good.
I'm thinking something is out of line...causing it to jam and not return or the brake line itself won't let fluid return.
I had a Honda Accord once....calliper used to stick....put new one one......no difference......turned out the flex hose was collapsed inside. So using the brake caused enough pressure to push piston out......but the fluid wouldn't return to let the piston go back. The flex hose looked good.
I'm thinking something is out of line...causing it to jam and not return or the brake line itself won't let fluid return.
combz
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i will have a closer look today
No i haven't had it apart. I have never been inside it or any other one before so don't exactly know what you mean or what it is supposed to look like. As far as your driveshaft bearing comment is there any way i can visibly check that?
thank you for all suggestions thus far
I would think you could feel it driving..no?
Have to remove caliper and brake disc to inspect driveshaft and bearing.
combz
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is this known as the "jackshaft bearing"? It was replaced when it was brought in originally after the first incident. Or is it something different?
Allan
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no drive shaft bearing .
On the Viper spring sled master cylinder update do you know what year it was for ? have a 2016 Ltx le which is a 2015 1/2 build having some master cylinder problems and dealer couldn’t find service bulletin.
I believe it was the Orange and Blue ones. 2015 model?
combz
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Just an update, I still have the issue to this day and it hasn't been resolved.
The lines have all been replaced so I doubt it's that.
I will disassemble the chain case in a week or two to have a look , but I honestly am not familiar with them enough to know what I'm looking for that could affect this.
Same with a previous comment about some other bear and a clip. Pictures would really help me out.
I have one question as I've never driven any other viper but do you have to rev them relatively high to get them to even move at all? Often my friends who have driven it complain that they expected it to move when they used the throttle but had to rev it more than they would expect to get it to move.
This could be the break issue causing that or maybe it's just normal x I'd like to know though.
It's annoying this is the inky issue I have with the sled. I know something is messed up.
Anyone that can help with specific instructions on how to check these bearing and clips that have been mentioned I would greatly appreciate it . I am capable of doing the work just need a bit of guidance
Thanks !
The lines have all been replaced so I doubt it's that.
I will disassemble the chain case in a week or two to have a look , but I honestly am not familiar with them enough to know what I'm looking for that could affect this.
Same with a previous comment about some other bear and a clip. Pictures would really help me out.
I have one question as I've never driven any other viper but do you have to rev them relatively high to get them to even move at all? Often my friends who have driven it complain that they expected it to move when they used the throttle but had to rev it more than they would expect to get it to move.
This could be the break issue causing that or maybe it's just normal x I'd like to know though.
It's annoying this is the inky issue I have with the sled. I know something is messed up.
Anyone that can help with specific instructions on how to check these bearing and clips that have been mentioned I would greatly appreciate it . I am capable of doing the work just need a bit of guidance
Thanks !
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