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2015 viper brakes stuck on, sled on fire

How many miles total on the sled? At what millage did the break issue first appear? Can you smell the belt when you move the sled on and off the trailer? Other than the break issue has there ever been any other issues of any kind with the sled? Did you buy the sled new or used?
 

I changed the primary clutch spring in mine to a soft start spring. Engages at a much lower rpm and smoother starts. Jerky starts with oem spring engages at high rpms. Normal. Search that for more info.
 
How many miles total on the sled? At what millage did the break issue first appear? Can you smell the belt when you move the sled on and off the trailer? Other than the break issue has there ever been any other issues of any kind with the sled? Did you buy the sled new or used?
Bought sled with 700 km on it so basically new.
The issue appeared probably around 1500km but could have been happening the entire time for all I know. Back to my original post the first malfunction was after a trip where we had to fuel up at a gas station in the woods and i had to park my sled on a steep hill while waiting and had to use my brake lock. Shortly after that my friend noticed my brake light was on the entire time i was driving (and yes my brake lock was released).
I have probably 4000km on it now.
The dealer replaced the driveshaft and jackshaft bearings, apparently replaced the brake lines , master cylinder , the caliper, rotor and pads after it caught fire on me while driving.
After these have been replaced the sled still heats the brake up to the point where you cant touch it and there is brake dust everywhere , I rarely use my brake out of fear of it sticking on and catching fire again:).
When I went to move it out of the trailer from storage over the summer she was stuck and I had to rev up alot to get it to budge, pretty sure it smoked the belt a bit but it was only for a second to get it out of the trailer.

I dont think the dealer would have thought of things like spacers or clips missing especially inside the chain case, so those are all great ideas if I knew exactly what things these were I'd take it apart and check it all out.

And as for any other issues with the sled..zero. not had a single issue other than this.
 
When a sled sits for a long time it not on command for the track to stick to the slides and make it hard to move, it may not of been the break sticking. As for the dust this could be belt dust. If the rotor got movement (float ) the break is not stuck.
 
combs your brakes will get very hot that is how they work(friction)I have heard of the brakes hanging up on these sleds but in your case I would bet that it was your parking brake stuck. I think the problem with these brakes is the handle and resivour not so much the caliper it self I'm not a fan of how the parking brake works but I guess it's better than adding a bunch of additional parts like the delta box chassis had.
 
combs i would take a look at a parts diagram like babbitts or what ever that will show you were the clips and washers go inside the chain case its about the best way to find out wear all the parts should be
 
Not using your brake increases the probability it will stick. Fire will be caused by parking brake on and plastic shroud below igniting due to extreme heat.
 
Just an update for anyone that looks atthis thread in the future. I did a lot of maintenance myself this year, including taking the break assembly apart. I took videos of everything before disassembly noting things like clearances, any play and so on. One thing I noticed before taking the break disc assembly off the tunnel, there is a c clip thing that holds the disc rotor on. There was some back and forth play there which didn't seem normal
After reassembling it there was no play. I put about 500 miles on after doing this and the brake doesn't get hot anymore. I dont know what exactly caused it to tighten up when it put it back together, but the clip was much harder to get back in. I suspect this play in the disc was allowing it to rub against pad and heat it up under load.
 
There is a small amount of side to side play in the drive axle . Usually when reinstalling the rotor or drive bearing the shaft gets pushed toward the chain case side so when reinstalling the retaining ring it's normal to have to reach in the tunnel and pull the shaft back toward the brake side so that the groove in the shaft is fully exposed.

I also cut a groove in the ends of the retainer to make it easier to reinstall with a basic pair of snap ring pliers.

viper snap ring.JPG
 
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