'21 SRX new to me - what to expect?

[Mills]

I got a smoking deal on a 2021 SRX with Hauck 240 HP tune and clutch kit. I upgraded it with metal blow off valve and a new Camso Ice Arrowhead 130 track. What pro's and con's should I expect from it? Any specific things to watch for? It has 3,250 miles on it.

 

[Turboflash]

If you haven't already, suggested you read the "Master Sidewinder Issues" near top of the forum. That would give you plenty of info.

 

[Mills]

If you haven't already, suggested you read the "Master Sidewinder Issues" near top of the forum. That would give you plenty of info.

thanks for the info, I will check it out.

 

[RobX-1]

Although I don't own a Yamacat at the moment, I have been staying abreast with them so will use this to see how well I've been listening/reading:
- check/inspect top gear bushing
- address chain case tensioner bolt that can possibly back out
- check/inspect shift fork pads
- check/inspect drive axle bearing as it most likely has spun and worn into shaft and may need address
- check all hose clamps for the turbo to ensure no leaks

 

[100MPH]

If you haven't already, suggested you read the "Master Sidewinder Issues" near top of the forum. That would give you plenty of info.

I bought a 2020 SRX (3,943 mi) this fall, tore into it after researching as stated above. Drive shaft and bearing, drive sprocket, oil tank seal all bad and a BMP trail pipe (no tune), all fixed now with the good data found here. Thanks again.

 

[acpantera]

Corners come up faster than any other sled you've ever riden.

 

[DennyTuna]

Corners come up faster than any other sled you've ever riden.

I will add these sleds require 100% focus 100% of the time when your in the throttle, no daydreaming allowed.

What to expect.......

Take care of the master list then enjoy a very reliable sled.

 

[Turboflash]

Although I don't own a Yamacat at the moment, I have been staying abreast with them so will use this to see how well I've been listening/reading:
- check/inspect top gear bushing
- address chain case tensioner bolt that can possibly back out
- check/inspect shift fork pads
- check/inspect drive axle bearing as it most likely has spun and worn into shaft and may need address
- check all hose clamps for the turbo to ensure no leaks

Good start.
Clutch alignment needs to be checked. Ski alignment. Do a boost leak check. Need to shorten those spacers in the intake spigot. Make sure cooling system is completely free of air.

 

[Mills]

Good start.
Clutch alignment needs to be checked. Ski alignment. Do a boost leak check. Need to shorten those spacers in the intake spigot. Make sure cooling system is completely free of air.

What are the intake spacers? I bought the sled from Hauck Powersports and all the mods the previous owner had done was done by them. Had the DMC gear put in, tensioner bolts welded, track aligned, metal blow off valve installed and they checked the clutch offset.

 

[RobX-1]

What are the intake spacers?

These

Edit: At least, I think that's what they're referring to.

 

[Turboflash]

What are the intake spacers? I bought the sled from Hauck Powersports and all the running the previous owner had done was done by them. Had the DMC gear out in, tensioner bolts welded, track aligned, metal blow off valve installed and they checked the clutch offset

Hopefully Hauck did it.
Do a search on this forum for (intake spacers) and there will be many many posts.
Between the throttle bodies and cylinder head there are 3 rubber spigots that connect the two. Each spigot has 2 clamps, one on each end. Between the ears of the clamp the screw that tightens the clamp has a steel spacer (presumably to prevent over-tightening). But the spacers are too long so as to prevent enough compression of the rubber to seal (sometimes). So there can be boost leaks.
#12 in this drawing. There are 6 total spacers .25" long that should be shortened to like .15". Some go shorter to .125"

 

[Mills]

Hopefully Hauck did it.
Do a search on this forum for (intake spacers) and there will be many many posts.
Between the throttle bodies and cylinder head there are 3 rubber spigots that connect the two. Each spigot has 2 clamps, one on each end. Between the ears of the clamp the screw that tightens the clamp has a steel spacer (presumably to prevent over-tightening). But the spacers are too long so as to prevent enough compression of the rubber to seal (sometimes). So there can be boost leaks.
#12 in this drawing. There are 6 total spacers .25" long that should be shortened to like .15". Some go shorter to .125"
View attachment 177238

I called Hauck and they have done the clutch alignment, ski alignment, track alignment. They also shortened the intake spacers and did all of the general stuff that has been talked about in the what to watch out for on sidewinders section in this forum. Their Tech suggested to let the sled idle for 2-3 minutes before shutting it off to spool the turbo down and to ensure it doesn't build moisture in the oil/air separator. How many of you guys do this?

 

[Turboflash]

I called Hauck and they have done the clutch alignment, ski alignment, track alignment. They also shortened the intake spacers and did all of the general stuff that has been talked about in the what to watch out for on sidewinders section in this forum. Their Tech suggested to let the sled idle for 2-3 minutes before shutting it off to spool the turbo down and to ensure it doesn't build moisture in the oil/air separator. How many of you guys do this?

Yes. Should ALWAYS do this.

 

[KnappAttack]

I called Hauck and they have done the clutch alignment, ski alignment, track alignment. They also shortened the intake spacers and did all of the general stuff that has been talked about in the what to watch out for on sidewinders section in this forum. Their Tech suggested to let the sled idle for 2-3 minutes before shutting it off to spool the turbo down and to ensure it doesn't build moisture in the oil/air separator. How many of you guys do this?

Letting the turbo cool is done to let it cool off, it's to prevent and help with the oil coking in it and to keep the water from boiling as the center section is also cooled with coolant, but mostly from coking the oil and turning it into carbon as the turbo is literally red hot after being run hard. It needs this time to cool before shutting down and not bake the oil in it. It should be done with any turbo vehicle or equipment. I even let non turbo vehicles cool a bit before shutting down to prevent exhaust manifolds to cool. Four-Strokes run very high exhaust temps anyway, even idling.

 

[Simplespeed]

I called Hauck and they have done the clutch alignment, ski alignment, track alignment. They also shortened the intake spacers and did all of the general stuff that has been talked about in the what to watch out for on sidewinders section in this forum. Their Tech suggested to let the sled idle for 2-3 minutes before shutting it off to spool the turbo down and to ensure it doesn't build moisture in the oil/air separator. How many of you guys do this?

What you should see is as you pull over after running awhile and you let your sled idle your temperature on your guage will be around 170 and your motor temperature will climb, when it gets around 212 your sled will shut down automatically, its built into it.. By doing this you have cooled the Turbo and your ECU will take care of overheating Motor issues . Good practice to let motor idle for say a minute or minute in a half.. I don’t normally let sled shut itself down…