22 LTX rear skid adjustments

[LoyalBlue4]

How much do you weigh with you and all gear including everything your going to strap on the back…

Thank you for the info. I weigh 210 without gear. No gas tanks or heavy items in my storage bag. I will try the firmer (3) setting but I can’t imagine it makes a ton of difference. Just surprised how easily you can compress up and down with one hand compared to the Viper on same setting. I’ll be interested to read what other people are experiencing and how they remedy. I have not studded (yet) since I’ve never used them. I know it’s strongly recommended with the SW. thanks

 

[Simplespeed]

Your perfect suspension is in there, you just got go find it, its that simple which is really far from simple cause it takes time , patience, and some work … This slide action suspension is a very good design and trust me Iam not a cat guy… But in this case I to give them credit …. We (Yamaha ) had nothing that was better or they would not have partner up right ????

 

[Simplespeed]

The really great thing about adjustments is you try it and if you don’t like it, no harm, no foul, no wasted anything but your knowledge you gain and time spent to improve …

 

[WinderFab]

Thank you for the info. I weigh 210 without gear. No gas tanks or heavy items in my storage bag. I will try the firmer (3) setting but I can’t imagine it makes a ton of difference. Just surprised how easily you can compress up and down with one hand compared to the Viper on same setting. I’ll be interested to read what other people are experiencing and how they remedy. I have not studded (yet) since I’ve never used them. I know it’s strongly recommended with the SW. thanks

I’m roughly the same weight as you, if you are going to set the rear spring cam on 3 “hardest” and the clicker on 3 it’s gonna be way to stiff on the bumps. Adjusting the suspension to the stiffest settings won’t help the sagging issue.

 

[Simplespeed]

Rear springs holds up the back when stiff right? Rear shock on three slows compression and is very easy to turn to # 2 if too slow or stiff…

 

[Simplespeed]

Just so you know the way the stock shocks are valued is as follows # 1 setting 20% #2 setting 40% and #3 setting 80%

 

[Simplespeed]

The three adjustments that take a little work to complete is the springs and them measurements are important…. Turning the knobs on the shocks takes seconds and no work at all….If your riding flat trails then go softer with shocks, if your riding medium to small bump trails try on stiffer side… If your on big bumps slow down and save your equipment and your tail bones …. Lol….

 

[Simplespeed]

Oh and on the bottom of front shocks set the rebound at 8 clicks from 0 or in the center, there are like 15 clicks…. Then when you get time fine tune this rebound…. I like 8 in the middle….

 

[hellflyer]

I’m roughly the same weight as you, if you are going to set the rear spring cam on 3 “hardest” and the clicker on 3 it’s gonna be way to stiff on the bumps. Adjusting the suspension to the stiffest settings won’t help the sagging issue.

I'm with fab! Sag is strictly spring issue.that thing should topped out with out any one on it or close to it! Qs3 on #1 has a low speed orifice,#2 a smaller one and #3 is closed and running strictly off valve stack. I've had a few apart

 

[LoyalBlue4]

I’m roughly the same weight as you, if you are going to set the rear spring cam on 3 “hardest” and the clicker on 3 it’s gonna be way to stiff on the bumps. Adjusting the suspension to the stiffest settings won’t help the sagging issue.

Thank you (thank you simplespeed too). I have front shocks set at medium. 10 clicks backed out from the 20. Center spring with the 1 1/2” or so exposed threads on bottom (dealer said that’s medium), and rear set on 2…might go to firm 3. That’s all I can adjust I think right for an LTX SE. I’m not inclined enough to adjust that center shock threading for now. Just trying to get rid of the sag so you don’t feel like you’re riding uphill. It’s sounding like this sag might be here to stay. Thanks again

 

[WinderFab]

Rear springs holds up the back when stiff right? Rear shock on three slows compression and is very easy to turn to # 2 if too slow or stiff…

Im not doubting what you are saying, the issue guys are having isn’t caused by them not having the rear spring set to the stiffest setting. Loyalblue4 said his flap was dragging the floor, I weigh the same and even on setting one my flap doesn’t come close to dragging. This isn’t something new there has been issues before with weak springs, do a search on here and you will see that when dealer replaced the spring the sled didn’t sag again.. If it were me I would be calling or bringing it back to dealer.

 

[Simplespeed]

You are right, guys that are having the snow flap dragging is a problem and it would appear that the two rear springs are weak and defective and that is a reasonable conclusion you are right….New springs correct it you are also right and I agree…. But check this … New springs will appear to have less sag cause they are new and have not taken a set yet … Now ride the sled with same set up and a couple weeks later after they take a set the same dragging mud flap is back … why is this ???? Its the same spring, made the same way, same size, same wire, same coils, same problem….cause its new it will be stiffer at first… Now try this on a LTX LE take block of wood say 1 1/2” thick and place it under front part of your track and watch what happens to your sag…. You would think the rear spring is weak by looking at it …. When they tighten that front spring too much it effects the rear springs and they appear weak… It also is only using about 1” of its travel and that makes for a poor ride… when you stiffen the rear springs you raise the rear and you improve your Sag and more importantly improve your ride… The shock is what slows to bounce both ways compression and rebound right ???? By using full transfer and the blocks at a minimum you get your rear sissor to move the track backwards while your weight is transfered to the front of the track which in turn moves your point of transfer forward which keep the skis planted and your track digging hard.. Hence Slide Action ….How do I know this ??? I thought the rear springs were bad on mine until I studied it and realized how and why it works …. All I know is them engineers that developed this suspension know there stuff period …. This thing will rail … Its in there boys ……

 

[Simplespeed]

When you hang 25 pounds on the rear behind you, weigh in at 255 I found the #2 setting to be a touch soft so I went #3 and yes its a bit stiff but the more I ride it the better it getting.. sled only has 450 miles on it….

 

[LoyalBlue4]

Yeah, the flap definitely isn’t hitting the floor but goes lower than I’d expect is correct. Especially since I can sit on the Viper right next to it it’s totally different. On the first day of riding it I let my buddy drive and I followed him and it just looked like the flap was a bit close to the snow but not touching. I wouldn’t say that it’s defective but who knows. Maybe there is a learning curve here and some trial by error is needed but the day I bought the Viper he said it’s all set on Medium, you’re good to go…and I was. Never messed with it. Told the same thing with SW and it’s just different and it doesn’t seem like going to 3 on rear will get me there. 5 days of riding in few days so we’ll see but it would be nice to have it correct from mile 1. Appreciate all the input.

 

[Simplespeed]

I respect everyones opinion and learn as I go and do not want anyone to take offense to what Iam sharing and knowledge I have… I truly think if I can help anyone improve what they have and enjoy this winter sport as I have for so many years then that what makes this site special and thats what makes our sleds better…. There is nothing better than to get on your snowmobile and have it perfect in Speed, Handling, comfort, easy of operation, light steering, performance, proper maintenance, and longevity….. We all want that and can help each other I believe…