22 LTX rear skid adjustments

[acpantera]

EZ to check shock charge, dealer should have a gauge. I bought one off Amazon, wasn't very expensive. I know specs are different from shock to shock, but confident it's 300psi or more.....I've seen plenty of defective new parts, I figure a charge could be screwed up, missed or blead off during manufacturing.

 

[Mototown]

Rebuild your rear shock 90 % of the rear sag problems will go away and it will ride better

 

[super1c]

It sure could be, that was my first thought, is super soft or bad shocks. The sled is still brand new with not even 1 mile on it. I planned on riding Saturday but can't make it to the dealer until Friday afternoon, so I sure hope they can figure it out asap

Let me know what your dealer says!

 

[WinderFab]

I'm in the same boat, just picked up the exact same sled and the rear end is insanely soft. When lifting up on the rear bumper to fully extend the rear skid, it will drop 3+" on its own when relaxed, and will drag the snowflap when riding it. Shocks and spring blocks are both set on "medium". I called Hauck and they said the crank up the front shock spring in the skid.

You shouldn’t have to crank up the centre shock, I only have about 2 turns of preload on mine and sled sits fine.

 

[super1c]

I’m guessing most of the issue is in front ski shock preload. Mine is stiff and sits high! My buddy calls it a bull dog, tall and big up front and short and small in back. I’m going to start with taking all the front ski shock preload out and go from there. If front gets heavy I’ll mess with center shock but I’m guessing it won’t. Not really sure why they thought they had to mess with front geometry with these sleds. My viper was the best handling sled out there.

 

[WinderFab]

I’m guessing most of the issue is in front ski shock preload. Mine is stiff and sits high! My buddy calls it a bull dog, tall and big up front and short and small in back. I’m going to start with taking all the front ski shock preload out and go from there. If front gets heavy I’ll mess with center shock but I’m guessing it won’t. Not really sure why they thought they had to mess with front geometry with these sleds. My viper was the best handling sled out there.

I don’t have the LE shocks and mine was and still is a bit on the stiff side, I had to adjust my front springs to 0 preload to get the a arms as level as possible.. I agree with you, doesn’t make sense raising the front up.. Let us know how you make out.

 

[hellflyer]

Rear shock has 200psi in it and it won't make that much difference in the sag. I'm pretty sure it's a weak spring issue!

 

[Simplespeed]

Measure from the point where plastic meets running board down to ground and you should be around 9” and from corner of rear bumper straight down to ground 24 1/2” …. If your measurements are near these your shocks are good and your ready to start from there… If your measurements are way off then take to dealer cause you got problems…. If you and your gear is more than 250 pounds set your very rear springs on firmest setting, your block for most transfer and your rear shock on three or stiffest setting… Now move to center shock and set that on two or middle setting and adjust spring till you have like 14 threads showing or approx 7/8” from top of shock to top of washer on the spring…. This adjustment is critical for center of transfer and should be fine tuned for your weight and your riding conditions, style and performance intended… Now front springs have 3 3/8” from top of shock to top of spring retainer and something 44 threads showing and the setting is # One the softest which will get you both skis turning together and no inside ski lift…And this is using the Stock Tuner skis and the orginal four inch carbide… Now if your lighter than that then adjust the firm settings a little softer … Your goal is to make the chassis rail around the corner and still be able to handle some bumps…. This is by no means a set up to mash mogels or go race snoX …..But when you need to turn, then you need it to turn ….

 

[Simplespeed]

Oh let me add that prior post set up is for or used on a 2017 LtX LE 137 stocker h and In my opinion this slide action rear along with the shock package is very, very good… Now only if a few things elsewhere were engineered alittle better ….

 

[LoyalBlue4]

Very interested in this topic. I have a 22 ltxse and on first ride it seemed very saggy in rear. Snow flap nearly dragging. Come to find out the rear spring setting was on the softest (1). Moved it to 2 in my trailer and I don’t notice any difference. You can still compress the rear end up and down with one hand. Very different than my Viper I rode forever which is also set on (2) medium. I would say there’s 1 1/2” of thread on the center skid shock below the black adjusting nut. Leaving on trip and won’t be able to get to dealer until after for the 1st oil change. Any ideas? Yes, my first post, but I’ve sure learned a lot over the years. Thanks in advance

 

[Simplespeed]

How much do you weigh with you and all gear including everything your going to strap on the back…

 

[Simplespeed]

I carry 2 1/2 gallons tank, extra belt, small tool kit and my weight is 255 with gear plus all that… So thats why my settings are where I adjusted too…

 

[Simplespeed]

Rear springs need to be set to firmest in your case….

 

[Simplespeed]

Adjust your sled to my reply post and you will enjoy your trip if your weight is around mine as I have outlined.. only other thing you may want to do is run sharp carbide if trails are all ice or your running on ice … My sled is studded so that also something we do around here ….two studs per band down the middle….

 

[WinderFab]

I agree with Andy.. There’s been issues with weak springs in the past.