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Mine won't start either, what is the deal!

I just purchased a Venture Lite. It is really cold here in Northern Minnesota, -20F to -30F, and now it won't start. Read what you guys
have posted, I have a full tank of 91 Octane, not sure what else to do.
Started fine at 10F. It is now -20 outside, it cranks, but won't start. I am worried about burning up the starter. Ideas? Thanks in advance.
 

Re: Mine won't start either, what is the deal!

Poplarguy said:
I just purchased a Venture Lite. It is really cold here in Northern Minnesota, -20F to -30F, and now it won't start. Read what you guys
have posted, I have a full tank of 91 Octane, not sure what else to do.
Started fine at 10F. It is now -20 outside, it cranks, but won't start. I am worried about burning up the starter. Ideas? Thanks in advance.
I have started my venture mp at -30F using 87octane fuel but I sure wouldn't recommend doing it. The starter took one heck of a beating. I have a circ heater for it and will be putting it on next time I get it into a warm shop. Yellowknife seems to be having good luck starting his in the cold temps so I think this is the way to go. Topper
 
Gyps - i got some more pics for you of the coolant heater...this is definitely it...same as posted before...


Larger view, see it on the left/bottom...


The wires go between the oil tank and the fan, through the bulkhead...


This is a shot between the oil tank and the fan, see the black plug way back there in the middle? That's attached to the back of the coolant heater in the first couple pics...again, the heater is installed between where the coolant goes into the motor on the front of the motor and the bulkhead, it is not installed in the area containing the fan/oil tank/battery.


Another shot of it, bottom left...click any of the pics to enlarge...
 
phazerfly said:
Ya, it's a green and white wire down on the oil tank side. Its a lone wire and not in a harness, and has no male mate to plug into it. That wire need to be grounded to put the computer into diagnostics mode. Also by adjusting the CO you are increasing the fuel basically to the idle circuit from what I'm told. It would be like changing pilot jets on the old 2 smoke carbs. Don't quote me on that though.

Never saw that wire. Has anyone found it? Gypsy- it seems the diagnostic mode you enter without grounding a wire is just for checking codes and sensors- no CO adjustment.
 
Just just want to tell you that the sled that I earlier told about and who had cold starting problems now is starting without problems. Our dealer adjusted the CO up to 15" and today in -35'C/-31'F it fired right up. So the adjustment/mod must have worked.
 
I'm not sure what you mean about real info. Do you mean the procedure how to do the adjustment? The adjustment have nothing to do with a CO sencor on the sled. You measure the level of CO out of the exhaust. Higher CO=richer. Sorry if I explain it difficult but my technical english is not the best. I could have given you the name on my dealer and the guy who did it but that wouldnt have helped you much.. Dont speak english at all...

I shall phone this guy right now and ask him how to do. Hopfully I'm able to translate it and post it here.
 
Have talked to him and instruction are exactly as phazerfly wrote. You will find the green wire with some white inside the fattest part of the "main cable" on right side (below the main electric unit). Its "taped" inside the "main cable" so you will not se it by looking, you must cut it open. To reach this wire you must take of the right side cover and also the bottom part right cover. Hope you understand what I mean.. He also said that this wasnt anything to mess around with unless you know what you are doing. You are able to both richen and lean engine out. Last thing was something thats used to be done in summertime under grass drag.

He also said that: YOU WOULD RUIN YOUR WARRANTY IF SOMETHING HAPPENS WITH ENGINE AND YAMAHA FINDS OUT THAT YOU HAVE PLAYED WITH THIS ADJUSTMENT!!!

On the sled I'm refering to he had set the CO value to 15"




phazerfly said:
These are the instructions on how to play with your EFI settings. Instructions are for doing an apex, but same steps apply for the Phazer.
1) Install a wire or paperclip in the pale green wire in the connector on the right side. Its a male connector only with no mate usually behind the battery, or oil tank. Wire only needs to be grounded.

2)Enter Diagnostic mode:
-Key and kill sw off, press and hold both "select and reset" and then power up the gauge (key and kill on)
*I leave key on and just use the kill switch.
-Wait 8 seconds and the guage will go blank except for "DI" in the display
-Press select to toggle between "DI" and "CO", select "CO"
*if there is no selection recheck your ground
-press and hold both "select and reset" 3 seconds
-gauge will display "C:01" this is were you select which cylinder you want to adjust
-press and hold "select and reset" 3 seconds and a number will appear in the odometer section,(will be 0)
-press select to increase the number (richer), "reset" to decrease the number (leaner)
*adjust it to read 10 for richer, -10 will be leaner
-Press both select and reset and chose C:02 and adjust the same as above, you must do this for each cylinder. The engine will run normally in CO mode so you can change settings with the engine running or on the trail. To reset simply turn off key or kill switch and the guage will return to normal.
 
You could not only adjust idle mixture.. This adjustment would effect through the whole "powerband"...
 
GypsyRoots said:
Thank you!
I will do some more investigating with Yamaha...
Be sure you don't fry your sleds please!!!!

No problem ;)! Hope it cleared out all the speculations about this issue.

Keep in mind that our sled here in scandinavia may have other specs than your but I doubt it is the case on this issue.
 
Gypsy, I have read this whole thread and I cant imagine that you have offended anyone!! Better to play safe than doing somethin based on bullshit! Anyway the number one mechanic working at my dealers store is a good friend of me so if there is any issues that yamaha wont speak about or havent "heard" about I always can ask him for advice.
 
GypsyRoots said:
>>>>> I STAND CORRECTED <<<<<

I spoke to Yamaha this afternoon, and after much blah blah blah, they confirmed that there is a wire to be grounded to get in to the adjustments.
They do not want individuals getting in there because one can easily mess up everything, toasting the engine and or brain box.
They do not recommend ANYONE messing with this, and will NOT HONOR warranty issues if adjustments were made.
Even dealers are not supposed to play with this UNLESS DIRECTED BY YAMAHA!!!

So I was wrong, there is a wire, and it does play a part...
I am sorry I was so skeptical, but you must understand I cannot just accept every bit of info here as true, unless back-up by fact. Everyone said "I think" and on my book "I think" is not enough for me to go on. Specially on a multi thousand dollar investment.

To all I may have offended: I AM SORRY!!!
To all others: DON"T FRY YOUR SLED!!!!

Thanks again!!! :rocks: ;)!

Hey, its all in the name of pertinent information! Everyone benefits here by reading these threads. If it were not for folks like you, Yellowknife, and others, we all would be just mushrooms..
As I thought, Yamaha is richening up the entire fuel map. No doubt your cold starting will improve, but I for one would not want to give up the extra mpg on the top end. So, i would run it as is until the warranty expired, then I would be putting in a call to Prologic and getting me one of their control boxes. THEN, I could tailor the engines fuel requirements to help out the cold start issue.

At home in minus temps, I definitely would be plugging it in. When its time to go camping somewhere without electricity, start pushing buttons on Prologic controller. Best of both!
 
Also, Gypsy, there is no oxygen sensor on the Phazer. "Adjusting CO" is just a nickname. Nobody is even measuring CO with an exhaust sniffer, just changing computer values in a trial and error sort of way.
 


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