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Gypsy, have you looked at VP Racing Fuels website? They have an awful lot of fuel solutions and maybe you could get it shipped close enough so that you or a buddy could fly it in to your pad.
 
Gypsy, I know all these guys mean well, but here it is:

Just put in the pump gas you get and be done with it. I have the same dilema as you, and its been like this all my riding days (30 years here in Nome).

Figure all the high perf two strokes running around these parts, and yours, all using the pump gas we both get. Few problems.

Now figure the much more tolerant 4 strokes, outboards, atvs, now snowmobiles.

We are not reinventing the wheel here.

Buy gas at whatever local pump, and ride that Yamaha like you would any other sled. Trust me, the frame/suspension or everything else will be wore out while the engine still purrs.

Gas it, ride it, forget it. Simple as that.
 
GypsyRoots (and other who don't know me). I work for ConocoPhillips blending fuels is my specialty. First off the Octane rating on 100LL is different than pump gasoline. The Motor Octane rating aka MON is determined on a knock engine that duplicates a engine under severe loads where you'll most likely see detonation. The MON on 100LL is ~120. To protect your engine a 25/75 mix of 100ll to 83 should be enough to protect from engine knock.

For cold starting (somebody metion RVP or Reid Vapor Pressure) refineries add more NC4 (Normal Butane) to a fuel blend.This is what causes the visible vapors when you open a gas can. NC4 also has a MON rating of 92. If your fuel farm has gas more than 2 weeks old; most of the butane has evaporated out (~60-70% depending on temps) not to mention the loss of octane.

I too have problems with cols starts on my SCRX-1mtn. With the super charger running 10 PSI of boost; I run 50/50 VP-110 leaded race fuel and 91 prem. I usually ride @ 7600' and up. When the temps hit about -25 F; my sled refuses to ignite.

What I do to get it started is; start with room temperature water in a gallon picture and pour it over the engine and oil tank, I gradually work up to full hot (about 6 trips) to not stress the metal from rapid temp changes. Then I fire it and let it run for about 20 minutes to make sure the ice has melted off everything under the hood. This also alows heat from the engine to radiate back to the fuel tank and warm it up. This has worked great for me with no issues and saves wear and tear on the engine. I also run Castrol Syntec 5-30 due to the extra heat from the engine making 200HP at 8000' elevations.

Jim
 
BlgsRX-1mtn said:
What I do to get it started is; start with room temperature water in a gallon picture and pour it over the engine and oil tank, I gradually work up to full hot (about 6 trips) to not stress the metal from rapid temp changes. Then I fire it and let it run for about 20 minutes to make sure the ice has melted off everything under the hood. This also alows heat from the engine to radiate back to the fuel tank and warm it up. This has worked great for me with no issues and saves wear and tear on the engine. I also run Castrol Syntec 5-30 due to the extra heat from the engine making 200HP at 8000' elevations.

Jim

Do you ever have any problems with ice build up in the belly pan? My sled hold water there regardless of how hot the engine gets.
 
Gypsyroots,
AS an avid plot (which I can do alot more than ride my sled!) I can assure you that the 100ll is not a good idea to run in your sled. I made this discovery after trying to run avgas in everything I had beceuse I thought it was cool to have even my Cub Cadet smell like my Piper Cherokee! Teh problem is that avgas is designed to run in a different type of engine that runs in diferent environments. For instanse, when I put it in my riding lawnmower, it ran good (smelled great!) but then started to die because it was making it run too hot. Talking to my A&P (aircraft machanic) he also said something about the composition of the fuel requires jetting that is different, much like running pure methanol. If the molecules in the fuel are larger, it requires larger jets to maintain the proper A/F ratio. This is why many engines run too lean when experimenting with aviation or racing fuel, and don't run properly. It may not cause any damage, but it will be a real pain to operate.
I'm not a fuel engineer like one of the other guys who posted here, but I have played with this for years, and have learned the hard way from time to time!!!
The lower the octane of the fuel, the faster it burns. If your fuel is 83? octane, having a faster burn in your type of climate range may not be that bad. Try just running it the way you buy it, it should perform just fine. With the EFI on the sled, you may be able to tune for differnt fuels, but until you do that, I wouldn't change from pump gas. At least just run a small ammount of a readilly availably octane boost designed for your car or truck.
 
wryan_garner4 said:
BlgsRX-1mtn said:
What I do to get it started is; start with room temperature water in a gallon picture and pour it over the engine and oil tank, I gradually work up to full hot (about 6 trips) to not stress the metal from rapid temp changes. Then I fire it and let it run for about 20 minutes to make sure the ice has melted off everything under the hood. This also alows heat from the engine to radiate back to the fuel tank and warm it up. This has worked great for me with no issues and saves wear and tear on the engine. I also run Castrol Syntec 5-30 due to the extra heat from the engine making 200HP at 8000' elevations.

Jim

Do you ever have any problems with ice build up in the belly pan? My sled hold water there regardless of how hot the engine gets.

It does hold some water. However it's not enough to cause any problems since the majority rins out through the seams between the side pannels and bulkhead. I found this out last season by all the oil spots I left all over the snow.This was due to the crank case gasket on the mag side tearing when I did the super charger install. It reminded me of a '70s era Harley Davidson.

Jim
 
1 bucket of hot water across carbs / intake and it will fire right now !
In northern Quebec at -30f we have had to do that on various sleds to start .
They will crank ok but not fire , our new fuels will not vapourize at those temps !
 
wryan_garner4 said:
have you tried a turbo'd RX-1mtn versus your supercharged? what is the difference and which would you suggest?

I sent you a PM about this rather than hijacking Gypsy's thread.

gsxr said:
1 bucket of hot water across carbs / intake and it will fire right now !
In northern Quebec at -30f we have had to do that on various sleds to start .
They will crank ok but not fire , our new fuels will not vapourize at those temps !

Another guy who uses the hot water trick. I like the way you think ;)! .

Jim
 
Hey BlgsRX-1mtn: Would like to get your opinion on octane boosters. If a person can only get 87 octane gas would octane boosters help. I picked up some toluene based octane booster the other day and the dealer who sold it to me bragged it up pretty good. I figured he knew about as much about it as I did so figured I'd ask somebody who knows. Topper
 
Topper said:
Hey BlgsRX-1mtn: Would like to get your opinion on octane boosters. If a person can only get 87 octane gas would octane boosters help. I picked up some toluene based octane booster the other day and the dealer who sold it to me bragged it up pretty good. I figured he knew about as much about it as I did so figured I'd ask somebody who knows. Topper

Octane boosters are junk for the most part. They trick you with the advertised increase. When a bottle says "Increases Octane by 10 points" it means just that. The things is a "point" is 1/10 of a full octane increase.

Pure Toluene however is a great octane booster if you don't mind more difficult starting and less throttle response. Toluene has a slow burn rate which is perfect for motors that see alot of heavy engine loads but no quick throttle changes. This is why it is one of the main ingredients in 100LL Av-Gas (meets demands of Airplane engines). It is also one of the main reasons Av-Gas has hard starting properties.

Edit; here's a product I have seen on the market that some two stroke race guys say works(unleaded fuel accelerator). It's a concentrated blend of high octanel fuel obtained by refining the componants for near perfect purity. http://www.torco.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=2

I however have never tried it because the Yamaha dealer in the area I ride has a bulk drum of race fuel; so it's less hassle for me to buy from him rather than haul enough to blend up 100 octane race fuel for my week long trips to the mountains.

Jim
 
BlgsRX-1mtn said:
Topper said:
Hey BlgsRX-1mtn: Would like to get your opinion on octane boosters. If a person can only get 87 octane gas would octane boosters help. I picked up some toluene based octane booster the other day and the dealer who sold it to me bragged it up pretty good. I figured he knew about as much about it as I did so figured I'd ask somebody who knows. Topper

Octane boosters are junk for the most part. They trick you with the advertised increase. When a bottle says "Increases Octane by 10 points" it means just that. The things is a "point" is 1/10 of a full octane increase.

Pure Toluene however is a great octane booster if you don't mind more difficult starting and less throttle response. Toluene has a slow burn rate which is perfect for motors that see alot of heavy engine loads but no quick throttle changes. This is why it is one of the main ingredients in 100LL Av-Gas (meets demands of Airplane engines). It is also one of the main reasons Av-Gas has hard starting properties.

Jim
Thanks for the info BlgsRX-1mtn. I kind of suspected as much. Great to have someone who knows their chemistry on this site. Thanx. Topper
 


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