5 hour hyfax change!!!!!!!

[06attaker]

Went to change my hyfax with 1380 miles on my Attak and couldn't get them off. I ended up cutting one in half and the other was just as bad. I tryed wd40 on them too. All my old polaris's slide right out. This was the worst I've ever had. Once I got them off, I slid the new ones on and at the top they fell off because the curve is so hard. I didn't notice the old ones have a slit in them to make the curve at the top. Unfortunately, I bought aftermarket and they didn't have the cut in them. After five hours I brought them to the dealer and they installed new Yamaha brand with slits with tons of silicon grease for $75. Best money I ever spent.

 

[tryanATTAK]

I had similar troubles doing mine back in November. I could not get them to slide at all and had to end up prying them off using a screw driver all the way as they wouldn't slide at all to get them out the window to do the reverse peel method. Then last week my wife and son took it out into a corn field with not much snow and the right hand side hyfax must have started peeling and it broke the head off the screw that holds it in place. Well I had to pull the entire suspension to get to the screw. I got the suspension out and drilled the screw got out my screw extractor and proceeded to break the extractor off in the screw. So i got a bigger drill and drilled that out and then used a bigger extractor, and guess what it snapped off also. I resorted to driling and tapping a new hole just in front of the exsisting hole. Hope it holds up, but what a pain in the A$$. I have had Ski-doos and polaris in the past and changing hyfax was always a 30 minute affair not with this Yammi though,it sucks. Gene

 

[4Fighter]

Loosen the track about 8 - 10 turns. Pull the screws, and use a punch or ??? to tap the hyfax back to the windows, If you can get them 4- 5" thru, they will usually go the rest of the way using the reverse peel method. If not, wedge a screw driver between the hyfax and rail, then run it in reverse. It will occasionally bend between the rail and track, which isn't all that bad either and you can work with them there. But the general idea is to get enough of the hyfax thru the window.

I've also busted drill bits in those screws, so now I use stainless hex and loc-tite.

 

[SharkAttak]

they can be a pain in the butt, this why i use the old style narrower ones, they go thru the track windows alot easier and there is less drag

 

[bashley]

When I changed the ones on my Attak they were a PITA as well. I cut out a set of windows, shot them with WD-40, then put in a 3" screw (be careful to keep it in the hyfax material). I used a pair of Vise-Grips to grab the screw and pulled. One of them came out fairly easy, the other was a pain, ended up hooking a strap to the Vise-Grips and yanked with one hand while holding/pulling with the other.
Those hyfaxes are no match for a little "Redneck Engineering".

 

[SharkAttak]

slide hammer works well also

 

[berge75]

I don't understand why people think the yamaha slides are any worse than any other brand? I work on all brands and can say they're all a pain!!! Since Camoplas started making tracks with the narrow windows,and with the wider slides you either open a set of windows,or pull the skid. Maybe it's just out of fustration in the fact we have to change them 3 times as often as the other brands.

 

[DoktorC]

Just run them 'til the rail shows through...then they're real easy to take off .

 

[TurboTime]

Went to change my hyfax with 1380 miles on my Attak and couldn't get them off. I ended up cutting one in half and the other was just as bad. I tryed wd40 on them too. All my old polaris's slide right out. This was the worst I've ever had. Once I got them off, I slid the new ones on and at the top they fell off because the curve is so hard. I didn't notice the old ones have a slit in them to make the curve at the top. Unfortunately, I bought aftermarket and they didn't have the cut in them. After five hours I brought them to the dealer and they installed new Yamaha brand with slits with tons of silicon grease for $75. Best money I ever spent.

"06attacker" Want a quick 15 minute process to change your hyfax? Do you have reverse? If so here you go:

1st cut open one pair, side by side between the track clips, square holes about a 2" square will work on each side directly behind the rail.
2nd remove the hyfax screws
3rd Take a large screw driver and pry appart the hyfax from the rail at the back where you cut the holes, Use a mallet, be careful to hit down toward the hyfax and not the rail for obvious reasons.
4th Take the partially pried hyfax and place through the track, where you cut the hole
5th Start the engine, put in reverse, give it a quick spin.
6th do the same for the other side

This will remove your hyfax very quickly with little to no effort.

Good luck.

KI

 

[attaker28]

+1 sharkattak i use the narrower ones also with much success. i just bought another attak and the hyfax was bad and the screws were worn off. i use a fine tooth hack saw blade, and cut a groove into the screws then just use a flat head screw driver. i also made a slide hammer, very quick to change then.

 

[SharkAttak]

+1 sharkattak i use the narrower ones also with much success. i just bought another attak and the hyfax was bad and the screws were worn off. i use a fine tooth hack saw blade, and cut a groove into the screws then just use a flat head screw driver. i also made a slide hammer, very quick to change then.

the narrow ones work great

 

[garserio]

+1 sharkattak i use the narrower ones also with much success. i just bought another attak and the hyfax was bad and the screws were worn off. i use a fine tooth hack saw blade, and cut a groove into the screws then just use a flat head screw driver. i also made a slide hammer, very quick to change then.

the narrow ones work great

Which narrow ones? I assume you are talking about the old proaction slides?

Thanks,
Greg

 

[canadianhunter]

Just changed two sets and found some things that help:
- loosen track
-run a socket 14mm?? or so between track and rear wheel, stop when socket is below axle. This helps line hole up with slide.
1st CHANGE
- spray the rail inside and out with WD-40
- on a ripsaw use the rear hole,the one behind the clip
- oil this hole and the back end of the slide with motor oil
-snap a vise grip on the edge of the slide , but not so you squeeze the rail and tap VG with hammer.
- they came out the hole with one little pry with a screwdriver. Then I drilled and used homemade slide hammer.
2nd CHANGE
-the one set had been changed and I had tapered the rear of the slide on both sides, like the front and drilled a 7/64" hole for a 3" deck scew that works in my homemade slide hammer. Just oil the hole, put in scew and it's apiece of cake. The hardest part was getting this old crippled body up and down.
-to put them on spray alittle WD-40 inside the slide and a bit of motor oil on the outside at the front and push them on with one hand, except for the last couple inches, tap with hammer and punch.
By preparing them I will be able to change them outside if required on a few day ride.

Hope this helps.

 

[number1kyster]

The first change is a bitch. I usually put grease on them and after the first one they are easy.

 

[SharkAttak]

+1 sharkattak i use the narrower ones also with much success. i just bought another attak and the hyfax was bad and the screws were worn off. i use a fine tooth hack saw blade, and cut a groove into the screws then just use a flat head screw driver. i also made a slide hammer, very quick to change then.

the narrow ones work great

Which narrow ones? I assume you are talking about the old proaction slides?

Thanks,
Greg

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