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yamaha hyfax problem

Yamadogger,

I do recall the posts about the missing track clips but I thought that the problem was only on the 136" and longer tracks.

Is anybody having this problem on the 121" tracks?
 

Blue Dave said:
I just talked to the service manager at my local dealer where I dropped off my rear suspension on Saturday. He said that the loose rail end caps are normal and nothing to worry about.

Yamaha is covering the bad grease zerk welds and the delaminated wheel. Looks like I will have my rear suspension back by the end of the week.

Now if it would just start snowing!!!!!

Blue Dave, I have a question for you...noticed you said that you're having Yamaha weld your "bad" grease zerks. Well, how did you know the zerks were bad? I'm wondering if mine are bad now...I have an 08 Vector LTX GT. Think I should bring it to a dealer to have the zerks welded?
 
My grease zerks were not welded completely all of the way around the seam where they are inserted into the tubular frame. This caused the grease to squirt out of the seam instead of getting into the skid frame tube/shaft.

From what I have heard this was a common problem on at least the '07 Apex. My dealer has already repaired many of these under warranty.
 
Hmm, interesting...I think I may need to bring my Vector into the dealer anway because today I changed my chaincase oil and then noticed my coolant reservoir was empty...So, I grabbed some anti-freeze and poured some in, only to see it pour all over the floor of my trailer. I'll have to see where the heck the leak is. Hopefully it will just be a hose than came loose or something simple. Not too happy about it though. While it's there, I'll have them inspect the zerks.
 
it was on the 06's as well. my friend who works for yamaha (dealer) said it was a screw up on the welding when they did the zerks but fixed them on the neweer ones i beleave.
 
BlueDave - The problem definitely exists on 121" tracks. My 2006 GT has no clips left on one side and half of them missing from the other due to a bad decision on my part. I noticed the loose caps and decided to re-rivet the caps rather than bolt them, not knowing the importance at the time. I drilled out the steel rivets and replaced with some aluminum ones I had in the garage. Initially they were tight but after a day of riding I got home only to notice they were looser than before and most of my clips were gone. After finding this out I drilled an extra hole and installed bolts rather than rivets (2 bolts in each cap) in my wife's sled and used some old caps from my Viper on mine. For some reason the Viper caps fit tighter??? Others have gooped some silicone instde the cap and just bolted with one bolt through the rivet hole with good results. Any way you decide to tighten them up, you definitely need to fix it.

I know this is departing from the initial post question but the grease zerk issue seems to be common as well. Both of our 2006 Apexes have at least one that's not welded all the way around thus leaking grease out when you hit it with the grease gun. I just welded them myself but if the dealer will do it then that's even better.
 
Thanks Yamadogger. I will install some hardened bolts with nylock nuts on the end caps before I reinstall my rear skid.
 
Blue Dave said:
I have yet to try the reverse gear removal procedure but I can visualize how it should work real slick. I am not so sure however about doing it from the front in forward gear since you do not have anything to stop the hyfax from sliding (rather than "peeling") like you do with the rail caps when you start "peeling" off from the rear in reverse gear.

Doing it in forward still peels it off the rail and out through the track window. you cannot put a sled in gear and rotate the track and get the hi-fax to push out the back because the hi-fax curls around the suspension inside the track and becomes a real mess to cut out.
 
hyfax

More tips

Before bolting end caps on with stainless bolts, washers, and nylock nuts, squirt Goop into them. Rock solid.

Cut a couple extra slits in the front of hyfax. It will bend easier.

Buy one of those $30 chain falls, to lift the back, so you don't get a hernia turning your heavy pig on it's side.

Get the hyfax started out the window by hand, and get the screw driver out of the picture.

You can also use a large screw driver as a pry bar through the windows, and against the front drive axle to turn the track without starting the machine. I saw a Canadian dealer do that 12 years ago.
 
Re: hyfax

apex yooper said:
More tips

Before bolting end caps on with stainless bolts, washers, and nylock nuts, squirt Goop into them. Rock solid.

Cut a couple extra slits in the front of hyfax. It will bend easier.

Buy one of those $30 chain falls, to lift the back, so you don't get a hernia turning your heavy pig on it's side.

Get the hyfax started out the window by hand, and get the screw driver out of the picture.

You can also use a large screw driver as a pry bar through the windows, and against the front drive axle to turn the track without starting the machine. I saw a Canadian dealer do that 12 years ago.

what do tou mean by goop? silicone?
 
Yes, there is a product called Goop, it's basically a silicone sealant and adhesive. Hardware stores, Depot and others should have it.
 
goop

Everyone should have a tube of goop. It is the toughest non hardening glue I have ever used. It works great on a rip in a rubber boot.
 
what are the dimensions of the nuts,bolts,and washers that i need to tighten up the front guides on the rails? and which is the best way to attatch them...one or two bolts per side
 
You can also use plain old SILICONE works just fine to secure rail caps w/10-24 stainless machine bolts and nylon lock nut 1 per side...for the leaking ZERKS it only on '06 & '07 '08 got updated welded all aronnd no more leaking!
 


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