5000 miles recommended maintenance

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'17 Sidewinder LTX-LE
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mstahl88
What do I now need to check or replace on my '06 Rtx at this mileage? I know there are common issues on the Apex and want to prevent breakdown on the trail. Also, a description of how to get to things (bearings, etc.) would be great!
 
At a minimum, I would pull the suspension front and rear to check for wear(front bushings) and any signs of cracking(I believe you have a mono). I would also check the exhaust donuts.

I'm a bit anal and like to tinker, so mine comes almost apart during the summer and I visually inspect everything from the wiring(looking for wear points) to all ancillary attachments(oil tank and radiator attachment point cracks) Also, in no particular order, I check: chain tension, belt deflection, driveline bearings, inspect and clean clutches, inspect track and adjust tension.

There are tons of specific posts for each of these and anytime I've gotten stuck on something a search was all I needed to get back on track.

Good luck ;)!
 
apexg88 said:
RW06GT
your avatar makes me want to cry
been there, done that, this year sucked :die

Yeah - This winter wasn't so good for miles. Unfortunately that pic is from my end of season ride last year, April 12 in the Green Mountains of Vt. I'll be lucky to get even one more mile in after the rain this weekend.

There's always next year. :letsnow:
 
5000 miles? Pretty much everything EXCEPT the motor and plastics! :o|

Just so you know I'm not being an A$$ here's a list of stuff that I've seen break between 5000-10000 miles on various buddy's sleds.

-driveshafts (2)
-speedo bearing (took out speedo sensor)
-W-arm cracks
-Y pipes
-Exhaust donuts
-Rails cracked and broken
-every single suspension wheel has either broke off at one time or seized
-radiator brackets
-chaincase bearings (all of them should be changed)
-coolant tube under tunnel
-bent A-arms (just weak in general)
-A-Arm bushings
-bent spindles (weak)
-blown shocks
-RA cable
-transfer rods
-RIPSAW track (tend to delaminate at this point)
 
wheels & donuts

Got the oil changed and cleaned her up good. Now I've taken the skid out for beef up. Do I need to automatically change donuts? There are no exhaust leaks underneath the tunnel or funny noises. Should all of the wheels be changed? Or just any that are for sure junk?
 
It depends how much time you want to put in.
At 5000 I would pull the skid and go over bearing. Pop seals and greese the ones that are in good shape and toss the rest. every year i change rear axel bearings(i think the middle one you can) and the upper 2 on the cross shaft that mounts the tunnel.Change the other back 2 wheels to ones you can replace the bearings.(that being said i still have 5 original wheels on that you can't change the bearings and have over 14,000 km on them cuz i repack a couple times a year)
Not sure about your machine but my 07 transfer shaft has seals and bearings in both ends where it bolts on. take the bolts out that hold it to the skid and greese these needle bearings. check your rail bumppers at the front of the rail and make sure there snug. Some guys on here have had them come off and ouch catch a clip or a window.
check slids i didn't have to change mine till9500km.
Some say to have you oil changed in your shock every year 5000miles i would get it changed.
Funny you haven't had a problem with yur donuts. 5000mile you should be getting close to having them let go on you if they are gonna.
If you haven't greased your speedo bearing in the last 3000miles i would change it. not worth having that go on you.
Seconday clutch bearing should be checked and maybe repacked with good grease.
Clean your clutch faces and primary innerds (is that a word)
Change your oil and filter if its time.
Litf the front of sled off the ground after you change the oil and filter before you put the air box back on and battery. Remove bolts that hold the a arms on the front suspention and grease the bushings on these arms and do the ones down at the ski spinddles also.If there shot replace.
Give the balljoints down in there some penatrating lube also.
Give all steering points a shot of lube and ball joints. these will dry up on you and make steering tough.
Change chaincase oil if its time.
Main thing at 5000mile would be the donouts and all bearings + pivot points with greese.
Depends how hard you ride it

Cheers
 
shock oil?

This may be a dumb ?, but how do you change shock oil?
 
Last fall I had the oil changed in the skid shock and the front shocks at 6,200 miles. Tech (a very good friend of mine) said the oil was so broke down it looked like water.

Needless to say, the sled rode much better this winter ;)! Probably should have been done at 4,000.
 
where to buy

Where is the best place 2 buy wheels, donuts, & speedo bearings from? Least expensive is preferred.
 
I don't think you can get donuts aftermarket but some one knows where to get them please speak up.
Yamaha has some spoked exsessory wheels for around $30.00 that a pritty nice but Royal Dis. has good inexpensive wheels that mach up almost perfect in color and disgn. You do have to be careful of the inner back to wheels as they have to line up inbetween the track cogs or they will rub and blow appart. Royal has the speedo bearing.
I beleive there is a couple of aftermarket places in the US probably offering the parts u need sorry i can't help you there.

Someone will chime in.
 
Get the donuts from the dealer. Theyre cheap.....change them now or be prepared to by new Y pipes in 1000 miles or less. They go quickly. As for wheels, don't waste your money on Royal stuff. Get the new style wheels from Yamaha...same for the speedo bearing. Stick with OEM or better.
 


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