5300mi track is toast? now what?

[cmall531]

What track should i install on my apex er a ripsaw again a ice ripper or a predrilled ripsaw. Is this the expectancy for a studded ripsaw or is it just because i studded the outside windows. Another thing should i replace or upgrade front drivers?

 

[Mikecam]

Any pics.

 

[berge75]

I just purchased a new ripsaw last week from Kens powersports for $300 out the door. It is a fully clipped 1 1/4. They have other ones as well,but for all around i felt it was the best option.

 

[cmall531]

no pics one stud and window is missing lots of fibers showing clips missing and two paddles missing and material in between

 

[nate007]

I'd say for the miles you rode, that doesn't seem too bad.
I have heard alot about the Predator tracks, I'd pm machzed for that.
I like my ripsaw, and have 144 doubles and singles up the center. I think I'll add more, but I think the design of the Ripsaw would have to help in marginal conditions more than a flat paddle type track. I ride with a Rev 600, and his track is not very agressive. Even when my sled was unstudded (early this season), I could climb many of the icy timber trails that he couldn't.
I've heard that the Ripsaw is a softer rubber, and may hurt your top end, but IMO, 99% of the riding anybody does is at less than full steam!!!
Nate

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Ripsaws are junk IMO...predator much harder and can take the high power torque longer..

Dan

 

[yamaouch08]

Ripsaws are junk IMO...predator much harder and can take the high power torque longer..

Dan

I agree 100% I will never run a Ripjunk again. I now have a Predator track after my factory Ripjunk started falling apart at 800 miles,I now have a Predator that has over 3,000 miles on it and still looks new.

 

[ReX]

I installed a predator 1" 6-pitch (see sig.) and I do believe it is the best all around track for me when studded with 144 studs - but the cornering traction on looser snow trails is very noticably less than what the ripsaw provides. To my surprise I find it goes well in deep powder though.

If you want the best overall trail traction in all trail conditions get the Ripsaw. If you plan to stud it and want it fully clipped, install the 9968H144 Ripsaw.

If you want the best durability, minimum noise, great traction in 95% of typical trail conditions, and likely a higher top speed, get the Predator 6-pitch and install 144 studs in it. The best option for this IMO is the 9837H144 Predator 1" 6-pitch.

 

[studdog]

Saying the the ripsaw is junk may be going a little far. The ripsaw ia the best selling track ever made with millions of snow miles. Is it dated now? Probably. I've run over 10,000 miles on ripsaws and ice rippers with zero problems. My 08 will wear an ice ripper unless someone can recommend a better overall track for trail riding.

 

[nate007]

I have never seen a Predator, can somebody post a pic? I know the Ripsaw is softer, but I can't help but think that the lug design would be better in low to marginal snow conditions. I don't think I would buy a track just to gain the last few mph on the high end, but I agree with the guys who are looking for that. So would everybidy agree that you should look at your riding style before buying?

 

[Dano]

 

[LazyBastard]

Ripsaw is ALL marketing. The original 03 track, which lots of people complained about, was WAY better. Certainly not in terms of traction in the DEEP, but it was FAR MORE DURABLE. The few complaints about durability against that track (camoplast 9855) were due to SPINNING IT OVER SHARP OBJECTS. Ripjunk on the other hand, has those TINY tabs that fold over a few times, then fall off.

If you're not worries about one to two mph on top, go with camoplast 9833 (predator). 1.25" VERY solid, and EXCELLENT traction in ALL conditions.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Guys....the thread title was about mileage though...

He asked about studs pulling through and durability with studs...

this is why my answer still remains....IMO ripsaw with studs on outer bands being such a soft durometer track,will never last any serious miles....

A predator can be studded with SHORTER studs,and will hold studs better and longer due to harder durometer rubber....lugs wont break off like the ripsaw does....

In the end,predators have been around LONGER then ripsaws and are still the ONLY track camplast engineers recommend for HIGH HP sleds....IMO 150+HP makes our sleds HIGH HP which NEED a harder durometer track.

also,i feel that there is LITTLE sacrafice here overal....possibly abit looser in certain trail conditions tight corners ect....but the hole shot is as good,especially with shorter studs not bending over as much....less studs bent cause shorter studs..less weigh overal and rotating mass.

IMO,its not just a few extra MPH....its an OVERAL much better track...ripsaw IMO was a huge marketing ploy,when everyone THOUGHT they needed a higher lug track...IMO its crap,my predator does everything 99% as good,however its also faster,lighter,lasts longer.....what else could anyone ask for?..

Gees i sound like a predator salesman!..LOL.

do what you want in the end...make yourself happy...I know I did...I didnt ride ONE FOOT with the rip on mine...LOL.

why do you think the highest HP stock sled comes with predator?...MACHS,have always had camo predators from the get-go.....a ripsaw would be tossed apart in 2000 or so miles on a mach...seen it happen to two buds machs,while other mach buds predators ran on for another few thousand miles no issues...

JMO
Dan

 

[cmall531]

alright thanks guys pretty sure im throwing a predator on does anyone sell one full clipped predrilled also what about front drivers i was looking at a set on track usa should i replace them with some anti-racheting ones or leave them alone?

 

[LazyBastard]

9833 is fully clipped 1.25", 9837 is fully clipped 1".