Jack_Shaft
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I am looking around to see what you guys are running in primary clutch set-ups compared to the stock 71.9g (per arm) set up in my Warrior.
At 7.5psi of boost, the stock set-up actually wasn't that bad, but it was clear that the primary needed to engage a little higher to get under boost before leaving the line.
I am now modifying my engine to accept approx. 15-17psi of boost from my front mount turbo and I need to be able to clutch it to accept this much power. It seems that most of you have added weight so that you're in the 68-70g weight range, with some bigger power guys up in the range of 80-85g's per arm. I am wondering what I will need to get to these higher weight..? Heavy hitters? Heel clickers? Dalton, machined weights?
As for primary spring, what stiffer spring are you guys running? The stock is a YL-SLV-YL, I have a BLU-WHT-BLU here now, but I think I should probably go stiffer again. For those fo you running higher boost levels, I would appreciate a little bit of coaching as to what you're running, primary-wise.
-JS
At 7.5psi of boost, the stock set-up actually wasn't that bad, but it was clear that the primary needed to engage a little higher to get under boost before leaving the line.
I am now modifying my engine to accept approx. 15-17psi of boost from my front mount turbo and I need to be able to clutch it to accept this much power. It seems that most of you have added weight so that you're in the 68-70g weight range, with some bigger power guys up in the range of 80-85g's per arm. I am wondering what I will need to get to these higher weight..? Heavy hitters? Heel clickers? Dalton, machined weights?
As for primary spring, what stiffer spring are you guys running? The stock is a YL-SLV-YL, I have a BLU-WHT-BLU here now, but I think I should probably go stiffer again. For those fo you running higher boost levels, I would appreciate a little bit of coaching as to what you're running, primary-wise.
-JS
Buckeye
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I wouldn't raise your engagement, unless you are heavily studded and have the right suspension. I suggest a 2 stage boost controller, come out at low boos and flip the switch to high boost after hookup. For 17 #'s try HH's with about 240 grams total. I like the pink-pink-pink spring because of the low engagement. I use a Dalton 58-44 helix because of the faster upshift. You could use the green or silver sec spring as they will upshift quicker than the pink or white. This should put you somewhere around 10,200 rpms.
Turk
Tech Advisor
at 10 pounds boost I am running stock primary spring, HH,s with a 3/4" allen in heel, large bolt with 1 gram washer in 1st hole, medium bolt only in tip., 50/44 advant-edge helix with silver spring at 100 twist. Rpm,s are right at 10k...perfect for racing!!!!
Jack_Shaft
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
FYI I'm at sea level, great advice so far.
I will only be able to run one type of manual boost controller, so I'm going to have to try to keep my engagement somewhat high. I just ordered a load of springs though, so that should help me out considerably.
Keep the advice coming, I will no doubt have to invest in some heavier weights, whether it is HH's or HC's.
-JS
I will only be able to run one type of manual boost controller, so I'm going to have to try to keep my engagement somewhat high. I just ordered a load of springs though, so that should help me out considerably.
Keep the advice coming, I will no doubt have to invest in some heavier weights, whether it is HH's or HC's.
-JS
hooper
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HH clutchkit from Matt.Unknown helix and sec.spring.
82,9 gram weights and I put the grey spring from a HC kit in primary.
Eng.speed at 4500rpm,shift speed 10300.
Works great at low boost but at #18 it wants to flip over.
Buckeyes 2stage controler sounds like a good idea...doing wheelies is fun but not on a dragstrip.
82,9 gram weights and I put the grey spring from a HC kit in primary.
Eng.speed at 4500rpm,shift speed 10300.
Works great at low boost but at #18 it wants to flip over.
Buckeyes 2stage controler sounds like a good idea...doing wheelies is fun but not on a dragstrip.
Jack_Shaft
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
hooper said:
Good info here. If I can get to an engagement of approx. 4500 RPM and a safe shift RPM of 10300 RPM I'd be very happy. I'm pretty sure I can work with my set-up to keep the nose down on the racing surface I run, so I'm going to try to avoid the two-stage boost controller if I can due to cost.
Thanks for the input.
-JS
Jack_Shaft
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Buckeye said:
I just ordered some HH's with some additional tungsten washers to ensure that I can get to the 75-85g weight range, so that should help. The 58-44 Dalton helix sounds like a nice idea, I have one of their 51's as well as the stock 51-43, a 47 and a 43 Yamaha helix. I'm hoping that between those components, I should be able to get a solid 660' run.
-JS
Turk
Tech Advisor
I am running 62 grams in my hh,s with an advant-edge 50/44 helix & only hitting 10k rpm at 10 pounds boost. At 8 pounds I am pulling 96-9700 rpm.
Jack_Shaft
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Turk said:
Wow, that's low, RPM-wise. I expect to pull 10250 or 10500 with my set-up.
-JS
Jack_Shaft
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I'm hoping to run the straight 51 degree helix in order to get my TRX-1 to shift out quickly. I figure that with that much HP, I should be able get in to the higher "gears" fairly earlier and not bog too bad. I need to be shifted out by 300' or so if I want to get a good speed run, i just hope I have enough power to overcome that initial bog.
-JS
-JS
