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998 engine rebuild


Yeah can’t wait to clutch that 17 tune and see what the difference is between the two tunes. 15 ponies should let me feel a bit of difference. Just uncanny how mild my 16 tune was until you wanted it not to be!

My new exhaust sounds almost exact to my Smm that I had, and it will look the same once I finish it this fall!
I ran it with pefi trail muffler and I noticed the spool up was quicker down low vs ms16. It acts the the same way though.......very docile until you provoke it. The pefi muffler dont flow that well though and only got a small ride in crap conditions with td sq muffler but instantly noticed faster spool and more peak boost........really woke it up, would of needed more weight but wife will be running it next year so leaving pefi muffler on with powertrail. Sq will go on my new one
 
OUCH!!! That hurt!!!
Actually I like trying to wring every last ounce of performance out my sled.
The reality is becoming as I do get OLDER, I want to ride as much as I can. As much as I like tuning and testing, I want to ride, log miles and have fun doing it.
Time is becoming the most valuable thing I have.
I have discovered as much fun 300 hp is, and it is a BLAST!!, the responsibility in running that tune became tiresome. Always staring at the tach, looking for a knock light, worrying about fuel quality, carrying octane, --- became tiresome.
If I was retired or had winters off my opinion might change but for now I believe the 240 tune is the closest to "set it and forget it" we have out there.
For now I think 240 will have to do for me and I will concentrate on tuning the clutches to their maximum potential.
Maybe half way through the year I will find 240 doesn't cut it and return to the higher tunes, we will see....
Maybe I just need to retire and ride full time!!

Its funny that not very often I run up the top end trail riding, but I do love the corner to corner of the super spool 300 header tune.
The older I get my eye sight doesn't react the same when going 125mph on the trail so I don't run it up too much any more.
 
ok after 3.5 months my total rebuild and stage 6 is done! thank you Mike,Mike and Ben at Turbo dynamics. Complete new engine build with best of parts for stage 6. cant wait to tester out. might get a chance to pull Ben away from his busy wrk schedule and designing new toys for turbo sled and meet him dwn at Dyno tech to do a few pulls.
 
ok after 3.5 months my total rebuild and stage 6 is done! thank you Mike,Mike and Ben at Turbo dynamics. Complete new engine build with best of parts for stage 6. cant wait to tester out. might get a chance to pull Ben away from his busy wrk schedule and designing new toys for turbo sled and meet him dwn at Dyno tech to do a few pulls.
I'd really like to see what the stage 6 pulls on the dyno.
 
the cams sound a little diff at idle and the throttle response ... as much as i can tell just from moving it around is really snappy.
 
Just an FYI - I'm waiting for the engine and head to come back from Millenium for the 2nd sled I'm rebuilding in my shop. This engine sustained enough deto damage that both the head and top of the block needed repair. The damage was 98% on intake side. Deto did not damage actual cylinder plating (Nicasil) but rather etched aluminum behind that thin coating. The deto removed material from intake side of head all the way to the head gasket sealing ring. This sled was "using" some coolant now I know why. The head gasket and head and top of cylinder were all damaged.
Millenium Technologies does a great job of repairing. They can fix almost anything as long as it's in one piece. They currently have about 20 998 engines in que for repair all due to deto. Also, the repair process yields a total head thickness of within .001-.002" of what head was new. And, they are able to hold cylinder deck height within that range as well. So, there isn't a problem with changing the centerlines of the cams.
Again FYI - if anyone has to send their block in for repair, keep in mind ALL steel has to be removed from block. One of the first steps to repairing the block is to electro-chemically remove the nicasil plating in the bore. That process will destroy ANY ferrous (steel) metal in the block such as bearing races, dowel pins, oil galley plugs, etc. Even the two motor mounts must be removed. In short, the block has to bare aluminum. Only nicasil bore plating can remain.
Turnaround at Millenium has been about 5 weeks (for both block and head). Head only is about 3 weeks.
 
Just an FYI - I'm waiting for the engine and head to come back from Millenium for the 2nd sled I'm rebuilding in my shop. This engine sustained enough deto damage that both the head and top of the block needed repair. The damage was 98% on intake side. Deto did not damage actual cylinder plating (Nicasil) but rather etched aluminum behind that thin coating. The deto removed material from intake side of head all the way to the head gasket sealing ring. This sled was "using" some coolant now I know why. The head gasket and head and top of cylinder were all damaged.
Millenium Technologies does a great job of repairing. They can fix almost anything as long as it's in one piece. They currently have about 20 998 engines in que for repair all due to deto. Also, the repair process yields a total head thickness of within .001-.002" of what head was new. And, they are able to hold cylinder deck height within that range as well. So, there isn't a problem with changing the centerlines of the cams.
Again FYI - if anyone has to send their block in for repair, keep in mind ALL steel has to be removed from block. One of the first steps to repairing the block is to electro-chemically remove the nicasil plating in the bore. That process will destroy ANY ferrous (steel) metal in the block such as bearing races, dowel pins, oil galley plugs, etc. Even the two motor mounts must be removed. In short, the block has to bare aluminum. Only nicasil bore plating can remain.
Turnaround at Millenium has been about 5 weeks (for both block and head). Head only is about 3 weeks.
Great info that I hope is never needed on mine! Your whole post is so informative, right from page one and on, but also serves to remind all about what can happen with some mods!! $$$ and lots of down time..

Your mechanical abilities show both patience and expertise! Wow.
 
Another thread with too much information for %99 of us..datalogging is for serious racing people..nobody needs to worry about the tunes under 280..Posts like these just gets everyone second guessing when there's no need for us %99er's
 
Great info in this post and It may stop one 99% er from buying a Precision tune and thinking they can just gas and go to the handlebar.

Got to respectfully disagree with you rtx on this.
 
Another thread with too much information for %99 of us..datalogging is for serious racing people..nobody needs to worry about the tunes under 280..Posts like these just gets everyone second guessing when there's no need for us %99er's
I disagree. I think that the knock sensor does not work properly with some tunes and if you are even a bit low on your octane, you will experience mild deto that over time will rear its head. I would like to see a 10,000 mile 270 tune head pulled and inspected. I bet there will be a slight trace
 
Great info in this post and It may stop one 99% er from buying a Precision tune and thinking they can just gas and go to the handlebar.

Got to respectfully disagree with you rtx on this.
I agree with what you said!!I am not going to bring out names of shops that do flashes or I will get eaten alive on here!!!
 
We have now seen the long history of hundreds of Hurricane tunes from 240hp to 300hp to know that zero detonation occurred with the Hurricane knock detection system. Many have been driven for high mileage
I have yours freshly installed after my rebuild. I am excited to run it! Will be adding boostane all the time for peace of mind
 


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