998 Winder Weight Reduction

[TugHillWinder]

I enjoyed reading the thread regarding Cat's 858 announcement at this year's Haydays, and I agree with most of the comments. I've owned 59 sleds and I love my 998 Turbo on long trail rides. As folks on this forum know, the power is incredible.
So, after reading the Cat 858 thread, I thought it might be useful to start a thread asking about if and how folks have been able to reduce some weight from the 998 turbo sleds.
I have searched the ol' innerweb and spoken with all of the major speed shops yet have not found anyone offering weight reduction parts for these sleds. The few exceptions include removing the factory cast exhaust manifold and reduced weight hoods and seats and LION batteries.
I am surprised no one is selling reduced weight crank and camshafts, titanium suspension parts or lighter turbo components.
Has anyone had any success in these areas?
IMHO, reducing weight by 30 or more pounds would be noticeable and helpful.
Thanks!

 

[KnappAttack]

Real easy weight loss is a lightweight battery. I run a Shorai lightweight and it saves 11 or 12 lbs as I recall. I don't use it for weight as much as a large cost savings. My last Shorai went into many machines and went 8 years before I killed it with a draw on it. Yuasa batteries dont last me over 4 years if I'm lucky.

I just put a Noco lightweight in my motorcycle, it was cheap at $90 for the 20 version, but one must be careful on the snowmobile in the cold as some lightweight batteries have management systems in them that shut off in the cold or heat. I know there's no way I could run a lightweight Noco battery in a snowmobile. I had a buddy that had his voltage regulator go out with a lightweight battery that the management system built in shut it off in the cold. So you've been warned. Do your research on them before buying a lightweight battery on the BMS built in regarding the cold temp shutoff.

Other than that, you'd have to start carving up and building parts yourself. I don't think there is much out there for lightweight goods, nor is it really needed. The 998 is a trail machine. It's hard to take weight off of them unless you want to go drag racing.

 

[fatchance]

Mikes right, I mean honestly I don't see the demand for the lightweight parts and titanium would be very pricey. Best you can do for the biggest weight savings if you can, ride with a 1/2 tank of gas and keep the tunnel free from ice. That's where allot of weight is stored

 

[earthling]

The best thing you can do is not load it up with a bunch of gear. An unloaded winder is easily manageable. Between power and a predictable front end it just needs to be ridden aggressively and as long as you aren't loading it down with gas, and a bunch of 'stuff' its really not that bad. I carry a belt, minimal tools, and not much more. We have enough 'toolbox guys ' in our group that I don't need to bring much.

I have a buddy that rides a doo expedition thing. In the morning when he isn't looking I put all my extra gear and spares in his sled. Should have seen the look on his face when I asked him to hand me my sandwich and drink.

Battery will help, so will running an aftermarket exhaust, don't run IQS.. or EPS if you want to save weight. But then you still have a pretty big power to weight ratio so why not just throw a tune on it and run it the way it is.

Model	Displacement	Dry Weight	HP	Lbs/HP	HP/Lb
XRS	850​	486​	165​	2.95​	0.34​
Renedade X	600​	470​	125​	3.76​	0.27​
VR-1	650​	476​	135​	3.53​	0.28​
VR-1 Boost	850​	491​	181.50​	2.71​	0.37​
Riot	600​	521​	125​	4.17​	0.24​
Catalyst	600​	500​	132​	3.79​	0.26​
Catalyst 850	858​	515​	175​	2.94​	0.34​
SRX	998​	587​	240​	2.45​	0.41​
SRX	998​	587​	270​	2.17​	0.46​

 

[STAIN]

Having owned both EPS and non-EPS version, I would say the EPS makes the FEEL 50 pounds lighter. The EPS makes the whole sled that much more manageable in my opinion. It is so good even some of the 850 guys I ride with say it steers lighter than their sleds in some of the twisty stuff.
I have not felt the need to shave weight off the sled otherwise, maybe a battery when I need one.

 

[74Nitro]

The reason you don't see aftermarket companies offering much in the way of light weight components for the Winder is because there are very few places to shave weight on these machines.
The reason you saw aftermarket companies offering lots of parts for former all-Japan Yamaha sleds was because there were many places to shave weight on those sleds.
Battery is the easiest weight savings as others have stated, and I run a lithium in mine also.

 

[Stubbs]

Kinger shaved A TON of weight off of his DBII chassis turbo project sleds. I agree it’s a tall order to do the same on a Procross without compromising too much in the strength department.

 

[Turboflash]

Battery - approx 9+ lbs
After- market muffler - approx 9-10 lbs
CAI? - you can then remove air ducting on underside of hood saving maybe 2-3 lbs.
If you're gonna race, only have 2-3 gals of gas in it.
Remove ice from tunnel and skid. I've seen this be as much as 30+ lbs!!
Get a tune and you're lbs/HP goes down.

 

[Mtnviper]

Real easy weight loss is a lightweight battery. I run a Shorai lightweight and it saves 11 or 12 lbs as I recall. I don't use it for weight as much as a large cost savings. My last Shorai went into many machines and went 8 years before I killed it with a draw on it. Yuasa batteries dont last me over 4 years if I'm lucky.

I just put a Noco lightweight in my motorcycle, it was cheap at $90 for the 20 version, but one must be careful on the snowmobile in the cold as some lightweight batteries have management systems in them that shut off in the cold or heat. I know there's no way I could run a lightweight Noco battery in a snowmobile. I had a buddy that had his voltage regulator go out with a lightweight battery that the management system built in shut it off in the cold. So you've been warned. Do your research on them before buying a lightweight battery on the BMS built in regarding the cold temp shutoff.

Other than that, you'd have to start carving up and building parts yourself. I don't think there is much out there for lightweight goods, nor is it really needed. The 998 is a trail machine. It's hard to take weight off of them unless you want to go drag racing.

I got 10 years out of my Shorai battery and used it in 3 different sleds;-) With that kind of service I would definitely buy another one.

I agree it's fairly difficult and expensive to pull much weight out of a sled. Use to be that you could swap a skid out and save 25-35 pounds, but when Yamaha went with the Cat chassis they already have a Cat suspension which is fairly light.

 

[Upstater57]

I took 25 lbs off of my frame and look to lighten another 25 by winter.

 

[earthling]

your frame, as in the rider?

 

[Upstater57]

your frame, as in the rider?

Yes, as in being the rider.

It's easier to take weight off of me than the sled. LOL

 

[earthling]

Yes, as in being the rider.

It's easier to take weight off of me than the sled. LOL

Good for you! And yes, way cheaper to take it off the frame than to take it off the chassis.

 

[kinger]

If you were serious there are ways to cut some lbs:
Lightweight hood and no headlight ~15lbs
Go all fox float shocks ~6lbs
Bare minimum seat ~2lbs
Carbon rear tunnel ~3lbs Plus no ice
New turbo with SS housing and header ~4lbs
Reverse delete ~2lbs
MTX/BTX bone spindle ~1.5lbs

That's 33lbs plus the usual battery/exhaust stuff

Also like @Upstater57 eat one less day per week from now until the snow flies and you can match the above chassis reduction

 

[DMCTurbo]

Reverse delete maintaining the stock jackshaft is 4.22 lbs, eliminating the actuator motor is another 2.38lbs.
BDX lightweight driveshaft 1lb.
BDX lightweight rotor 1lb over snopro vented rotor, 2.5 lbs over solid rotor.

I've eliminated 7.5 lbs of rotating weight so far.
24 lbs of static weight not counting my side exit exhaust. Expecting to lose another 25 lbs going to a 141 skid. My 137 skid weights 67 lbs. I'll know more in a couple weeks when I pick up my 141 skid.