A little maintenance and a potential problem

[1999 Fatboy]

Going with a group to New Hampshire next week for a few days and gave my 2018 Viper a once over. I wanted to clean the clutches and with just over 7,000 miles my original belt was performing well and looked good visually, I turned it inside out and it was cracked down in between the cogs all the way around the belt so I replaced it. I also pulled the secondary to check the shaft bearing and discovered it very low on grease, the balls were very visible but not rusty, so I repacked the bearing with moly grease and all is good to go. I know I should have done the same to the jackshaft bearing, but, that's beyond my expertise and I'll leave that for a repair shop some other time.

 

[Bagman]

You might want to regrease the lower bearing on the driveshaft. You can split the brake caliber, remove rotor, pop the bearing seal and add grease. Lots of instruction in other threads.

 

[1999 Fatboy]

Going with a group to New Hampshire next week for a few days and gave my 2018 Viper a once over. I wanted to clean the clutches and with just over 7,000 miles my original belt was performing well and looked good visually, I turned it inside out and it was cracked down in between the cogs all the way around the belt so I replaced it. I also pulled the secondary to check the shaft bearing and discovered it very low on grease, the balls were very visible but not rusty, so I repacked the bearing with moly grease and all is good to go. I know I should have done the same to the jackshaft bearing, but, that's beyond my expertise and I'll leave that for a repair shop some other time.

There seems to be conflicting terms on YouTube and other sites as to what particular bearings are called, some say the bearing behind the secondary belt drive is the Jackshaft bearing and some say the bearing behind the brake rotor is the Jackshaft or the Driveshaft and visa versa, in any event, the one behind the secondary is the easy one to repack and I'll attempt the one behind the brake rotor when I return from the trip.

 

[Yamajon1]

The jackshaft is the upper shaft transferring power from the secondary to the chain case. The driveshaft is the lower shaft that drives the track. Both bearings should be inspected and or serviced annually.

 

[1999 Fatboy]

The jackshaft is the upper shaft transferring power from the secondary to the chain case. The driveshaft is the lower shaft that drives the track. Both bearings should be inspected and or serviced annually.

Thanks, that seems to be the general consensus as to which is which.

 

[Mills]

When you do the drive shaft bearing, don't split the caliper because they are a bitch to bleed when you put things back together. Instead, remove the caliper bolts and leave the caliper on the rotor but remove the brake pads. Take the seat and fuel tank off and then put a ratchet strap around the tunnel and ratchet it down, this will pull the tunnel in enough that you can take the c-clip off that holds the rotor in place on the drive shaft. You can then slide the rotor and caliper off of the end of the drive shaft. Pull the bearing seal, repack it and put seal back in. Re-assemble in reverse order.

 

[1999 Fatboy]

When you do the drive shaft bearing, don't split the caliper because they are a bitch to bleed when you put things back together. Instead, remove the caliper bolts and leave the caliper on the rotor but remove the brake pads. Take the seat and fuel tank off and then put a ratchet strap around the tunnel and ratchet it down, this will pull the tunnel in enough that you can take the c-clip off that holds the rotor in place on the drive shaft. You can then slide the rotor and caliper off of the end of the drive shaft. Pull the bearing seal, repack it and put seal back in. Re-assemble in reverse order.

When you do the drive shaft bearing, don't split the caliper because they are a bitch to bleed when you put things back together. Instead, remove the caliper bolts and leave the caliper on the rotor but remove the brake pads. Take the seat and fuel tank off and then put a ratchet strap around the tunnel and ratchet it down, this will pull the tunnel in enough that you can take the c-clip off that holds the rotor in place on the drive shaft. You can then slide the rotor and caliper off of the end of the drive shaft. Pull the bearing seal, repack it and put seal back in. Re-assemble in reverse order.

A buddy of mine and I pulled the foot well apart and split the caliper, removed the c-clip but couldn't get the rotor off, it's loose, but, apparently the spline get bunged up on the inside of the rotor and we couldn't get it off, we put everything back together and bled the brakes which was quite easy. I'll try again this summer when it's warmer out.

 

[Mills]

that happens to almost everyone. all you have to do is heat the rotor up with a small torch and it will come off.

 

[1999 Fatboy]

that happens to almost everyone. all you have to do is heat the rotor up with a small torch and it will come off.

I'll give that a try, thanks.