• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Jack Shaft and Drive Shaft Bearing

HydrogenCyanide

Extreme
Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
52
Age
43
Location
Fort Erie
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2006 Yamaha RS Nytro
2006 Yamaha Apex
I have new to me 2016, ZR7000 with about 5000km on it. Planning on a few long trips this year so I was going to follow the procedures in the FAQ to re-grease the bearings in the jack shaft and main shaft where the brake is. A few of my buddies said you should never attempt to re-grease a sealed bearing as it never seals properly again and you will end up stuck on the side of the trail as you'll end up with grease leaking out. They said to always just replace them

Replacing them appears to be significantly more involved. Are they just thinking old school? Should I just repack and if they are in good shape move on? Looking for some opinions on this. Is it really that much better to just replace?

Thanks
 

I have repacked many sealed bearings over the years and all of the ones on my current 2016 Viper. Not a problem if you know what your doing but if you’ve never done it you might want to practice. Can be tricky getting the seals in and out with out damage. I have made up a few pick tools so as not to tear the seals. I have not had any leak as long as you don’t damage the seals.
 
We pop the seals and re-grease every season. Have not had any in season bearing failures. We have replaced to a better bearing on the drive shaft and jack shaft but not because of failure because of mileage (over 10,000 miles). Make sure to do all your bogey wheels too. This is no small example, this comes from 7 procross chassis (14-18 MY) and over 50,000 miles accumulated.
 
I have new to me 2016, ZR7000 with about 5000km on it. Planning on a few long trips this year so I was going to follow the procedures in the FAQ to re-grease the bearings in the jack shaft and main shaft where the brake is. A few of my buddies said you should never attempt to re-grease a sealed bearing as it never seals properly again and you will end up stuck on the side of the trail as you'll end up with grease leaking out. They said to always just replace them

Replacing them appears to be significantly more involved. Are they just thinking old school? Should I just repack and if they are in good shape move on? Looking for some opinions on this. Is it really that much better to just replace?

Thanks


glad your buddies are well off as i cannot afford to do that. on the typical sleds i do all the wheels and the jack shaft and drive axle bearings and can usually be done in 4-5 hours with no interuptions and i pull the bearings out on each wheel when i clean and pack them. usually do the jack shaft and drive axle in place as they can be a bitch to pull.
 
Here is what I use, it works great and I have never had any problem with the seals coming out or leaking. Just make sure to run your finger or a rag around the seal a few times. You can tell when its back in their properly.

 
When cleaning for repacking with grease I like to spray with brake cleaner and allow to dry.. Then get a pin greaser and use a good grease and DONT put to much grease in.. Most make the mistake of over greasing and putting seal on and then the grease comes out seal as it was over filled.






  • Used in a variety of applications with operating temps from -100°F to 500°F

61KDWNNWcdL._AC_SL1143_.jpg
 
Why don't they just put bearings in that have means of pumping grease in them. Makes no sense other than a dealer service department money grab for us that are not mechanical enough to do it ourselves
 
If you repack the clutch side bearings they can last an easy 15,000 km.
brake clean to flush them out
i find a small slotted screwdriver Works good to pull the seal - try different tools as per the comments and use what works for you.
when you replace bearings, before you toss them in the garbage, pull the seals and keep them - so if you ever damage a seal when servicing you can swop it out.
I find a lot of factory bearings come with very little grease and they dry out quickly . Repacking ensures they are well greased and go othe distance,

ms
 
Thanks for the tips everyone. Going to pull the cover and repack. Seems like the more logical route.
 
The one good thing cat did was use a decent size diameter bearing. If you keep it greased they can last quite awhile.

MS
 
We pop the seals and re-grease every season. Have not had any in season bearing failures. We have replaced to a better bearing on the drive shaft and jack shaft but not because of failure because of mileage (over 10,000 miles). Make sure to do all your bogey wheels too. This is no small example, this comes from 7 procross chassis (14-18 MY) and over 50,000 miles accumulated.
I am in the market to replace mine as I am hitting 10k miles….

What are the better bearing you are referring too ?
part no# qty# of ea needed and where can we get them?
 
I am in the market to replace mine as I am hitting 10k miles….

What are the better bearing you are referring too ?
part no# qty# of ea needed and where can we get them?
Anything not made in china. There are lots of good bearings out there, I just stick with USA made bearings. Any bearing can be sourced from E bay that's where I go. There are also bearing distributors that can help out a ton with different manufacturers and pricing. Each bearing your going to replace has a standard bearing # on the seal, that's all you need.
 
Does it matter if you repack with high or low temp grease?Just did mine with high temp wheel bearing grease.
 
You'll be alright, most would prefer a low temp grease though. Look at it like this, it's better than doing nothing at all.
 


Back
Top