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got 19000 mi on my 11 and no fuel issues yet.Did the Apex/Vectors have any secondary fuel filters? These machines are racking some very high mileage and I never heard of a fuel injector being blocked or a fuel filter needing to be changed.
stgdz
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So i'm in the process of doing this and my return line on the fuel pump.
A couple of questions with this plastic line
-The fitting is proprietary on the fuel rail and the fuel pump, correct?
-How do you remove the plastic line from the pump side and the injector side without destroying the fitting? There is two little blue inserts at the fuel rail when I slide the orange clip down. Do I push one from the bottom and one from the top?
A couple of questions with this plastic line
-The fitting is proprietary on the fuel rail and the fuel pump, correct?
-How do you remove the plastic line from the pump side and the injector side without destroying the fitting? There is two little blue inserts at the fuel rail when I slide the orange clip down. Do I push one from the bottom and one from the top?
Last edited:
Turboflash
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- '17 ZR9000 Ltd. 137 - PEFI Stage 4
I think there are variations from '17 when these 998s were born to the latest revisions on the fuel lines. The hard plastic lines can be removed with heat from a heat gun.
stgdz
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Ok, how do I remove the line from the rail and the pump? I've learned over time not to force stuff and it seems like there is a trick here that I'm not noticing.
I took a flat head and tried to push the inserts down towards the motor. I figure one goes up and one goes down.
I took a flat head and tried to push the inserts down towards the motor. I figure one goes up and one goes down.
Turboflash
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- '17 ZR9000 Ltd. 137 - PEFI Stage 4
On my '17 the main fuel line was attached to pump via an oetker clamp. Line is attached to fuel rail with a push-lock type 90 deg fitting. To detach it, I slide the locking mechanism back and depress both tabs while pushing in (like I'm trying to push it on the rail). It takes some force inward to get fitting to release.
On later sleds, I know there were changes such as that hard plastic line that was pressed onto fittings, etc.
On later sleds, I know there were changes such as that hard plastic line that was pressed onto fittings, etc.
stgdz
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So I attached a bunch of pics showing the open and closed spot at the fuel rail. The blue inserts are different than the one at the pump.
I also have a few pics showing where I may mount the fuel filter but it's hitting one of the supports and I feel like it will rub through.
edit-is this a style of clipthat is smaller at the center than the edges?
I also have a few pics showing where I may mount the fuel filter but it's hitting one of the supports and I feel like it will rub through.
edit-is this a style of clipthat is smaller at the center than the edges?
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Last edited:
REDLINE 1
Expert
So I attached a bunch of pics showing the open and closed spot at the fuel rail. The blue inserts are different than the one at the pump.
I also have a few pics showing where I may mount the fuel filter but it's hitting one of the supports and I feel like it will rub through.
edit-is this a style of clipthat is smaller at the center than the edges?
Mounted mine here with a small pc of aluminum angle
Attachments
Last edited:
Fords4life
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Remove the orange or red safety outer clip, just pops off, then i push the fuel line inwards as i'm pushing down or in on your blue retaining button.Ok, how do I remove the line from the rail and the pump? I've learned over time not to force stuff and it seems like there is a trick here that I'm not noticing.
I took a flat head and tried to push the inserts down towards the motor. I figure one goes up and one goes down.
stgdz
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Got it off, I've wrecked to many plastic parts over the years.
Turboflash
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Jonlafon installed his inline filter right where you propose. He purchased a larger rubber insulated clamp that fits the filter and holds it so it doesn't rub on that support. If you search his post you'll see some pics he posted.So I attached a bunch of pics showing the open and closed spot at the fuel rail. The blue inserts are different than the one at the pump.
I also have a few pics showing where I may mount the fuel filter but it's hitting one of the supports and I feel like it will rub through.
edit-is this a style of clipthat is smaller at the center than the edges?
stgdz
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Yeah I saw that after the fact, he has some z-bracker that he made. I've got my ss orlekin clamps inbound today. How much force do I apply when clamping on the plastic? This is my first rodeo with these clamps.
This is the tool I got
This is the tool I got
Lisle 30800 Lisle CV Boot Clamp Pliers | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Lisle CV Boot Clamp Pliers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop CV Boot Tools at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com
Turboflash
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- '17 ZR9000 Ltd. 137 - PEFI Stage 4
Yeah I saw that after the fact, he has some z-bracker that he made. I've got my ss orlekin clamps inbound today. How much force do I apply when clamping on the plastic? This is my first rodeo with these clamps.
This is the tool I got
Lisle 30800 Lisle CV Boot Clamp Pliers | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Lisle CV Boot Clamp Pliers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop CV Boot Tools at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
Adding inline fuel filter
For those who read my "998 rebuild" thread, you may recall part of my diagnosis and rebuild was to have my 3 fuel injectors cleaned and flowed to ensure they are at 100%. As it turned out, when I did that, 2 of 3 were 3.5% down compared to the other. While 3.5% may not seem like allot, if...
ty4stroke.com
Turboflash
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Hope you bought the "full circle" style oetiker clamps. (https://www.mcmaster.com/52545K937). This one might be right size but it is the full circle style clamp that clamps all the way around. I would use something like Gates Barricade fuel injection hose (225 psi working pressure) instead of the stock hard plastic line. I think reinforced rubber fuel injection hose like this is way easier to work with and more flexible than the stock hard plastic line. I also think it works better with the barbed fittings and oetiker clamps. The stock hard lines are meant to be heated and pressed on. I don't know how well they would re-seal after being removed.Yeah I saw that after the fact, he has some z-bracker that he made. I've got my ss orlekin clamps inbound today. How much force do I apply when clamping on the plastic? This is my first rodeo with these clamps.
This is the tool I got
Lisle 30800 Lisle CV Boot Clamp Pliers | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Lisle CV Boot Clamp Pliers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop CV Boot Tools at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
max rolph
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My factory line blew off with fuel pressure upped to 47psi once heat got to it from the turbo.... absolutely stupid design... shrink wrapped vinyl fuel line 4" from a massive heat source!!! use the really good high pressure fuel line and dual clamp it., my fuel filter i posted with AN fittings fit under seat right at the brasses that hold tank on. i also covered fuel line in engine compartment with the high temp chromed wire loom covering. Just FYI i tested the vinyl fuel line in my vise with a heat gun... held heat gun aprox !ft away from line an pulled on line just to see hom much heat it took before the line pulled right off.... it was @ 30 sec and line pu led off quick connect with about 10lbs of force!! Change line before you go up in flames.
jonlafon1
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This . X2. The heat factor mentioned also!. I would use something like Gates Barricade fuel injection hose (225 psi working pressure) instead of the stock hard plastic line. I think reinforced rubber fuel injection hose like this is way easier to work with and more flexible than the stock hard plastic line.
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