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Adjusting parking brake?

ZR800EFI

Expert
Joined
Mar 6, 2006
Messages
352
Location
Morewood, Ontario
Hey, I can't find a thread on adjusting the parking brake. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong. I loosened the locking nut, and it doesn't matter which way I turn, when the brake is engaged, I can still spin the clutch fairly easily, almost like the brake isn't doing anything at all.

Should I be measuring the 43.5-46.5mm with the brake engaged???

I just wanted to tighten it a bit cause a couple times when loading on the trailer, it didn't hold very well cause the trailer was tilted.

Thanks!
 

ReX

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Mar 7, 2004
Messages
1,987
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Its likely that the parking brake pads have worn down somewhat. You can try shortening the gap beyond spec, but in my experience this doesn't work very well.

On one of my sleds the chaincase cover wasn't quite machined right and the parking brake couldn't float properly. This lead to a rapidly worn out parking brake. I've also seen worn parking brake pads on a few other of these sleds - even without the chaincase cover issue. I believe these wear when the brake rotor becomes too loose, causing it to rattle against the parking brake pads at speed. To tighten up the brake rotor shims can be installed under the circlip.

If the pads have worn down you unfortunately can't simply buy new pads since they aren't available. The entire parking brake assembly sells for something like $200.

What you can do is pop the pads out (once the brake assembly is removed) and move the least worn pad to the stationary side of the parking brake (towards center of the sled).

After this, you can unscrew the parking brake "piston" and re-install it one tooth advanced. This moves it in a fair bit and lets you use a worn pad on the side that moves ("piston side"). Its hard to explain, but the "piston" operates on a mult-lead screw. Once you unscrew it you can see the way the thread has multiple start threads. You can also unbolt the lever arm and select a different position for it. Between the arm itself and the multi-lead thread you should be able to find a position that works with the worn out pads (as long as there is some material left).

After that, fine tune the parking brake cable to get the right amount of brake clamping.

Make sure that the brake assembly can float freely on the shafts after you have reinstalled it. If not, you might need to "flatten" the mounting area that the bushings push up against on the chaincase. I was able to do this with a flat file, carefully making the chaincase surface flat (it wasn't machined properly from factory). After this, the parking brake floated freely and was able to work again without rapid wear.

Hopefully you can get it working (and you can figure out what I was trying to say...). Good luck.
 


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