SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
LB...very good advice. Thanks for sharing. I currently have mine set-up with
FRA - Med
Main Shock - #5 (1 being Sofest and 7 being Stiffest)
Front Center Shock - Stock Setting
Limiters - Set to stock setting
I have the 2.3 SR front shocks set the same as you but I have the 12mm with longer links. I am definately going to try your settings out.
A few questions....
How much do you weigh?
What does loosening off the front center shock effectively do?
How many threads from stock did you loosen the front center shock?
What number are you set to for the rear main?
FRA - Med
Main Shock - #5 (1 being Sofest and 7 being Stiffest)
Front Center Shock - Stock Setting
Limiters - Set to stock setting
I have the 2.3 SR front shocks set the same as you but I have the 12mm with longer links. I am definately going to try your settings out.
A few questions....
How much do you weigh?
What does loosening off the front center shock effectively do?
How many threads from stock did you loosen the front center shock?
What number are you set to for the rear main?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I weigh ~180 with gear. The front shock handles the initial hit, and by tightening the front straps, it takes increased hit to begin motion. Also, with looser main spring, it may cause more of the sled's weight to be supported by the front. I'm not really sure how many threads I loosened it off, just made sure to set it so the spring wasn't so frikkin tight! Side benefit to looser front is that the ski pressure is less sensitive to throttle position.
Main spring preload set at absolute minimum (1). The reduced preload allows it to compress easily for the first bit (to take care of the small/stutter bumps), while the high FRA makes sure that with an attempt to stroke the suspension deeply, that it will push back nice and hard.
Main spring preload set at absolute minimum (1). The reduced preload allows it to compress easily for the first bit (to take care of the small/stutter bumps), while the high FRA makes sure that with an attempt to stroke the suspension deeply, that it will push back nice and hard.
rick72796srx
Newbie
am i reading this correct no pressure on front springs i thought more pressure would help with ski lift
Confused Warrior
Newbie
Thanks LB for the information have 04 warrior that I've set-up like you said going to give it a try this week-end. w/o changing ski's hope it works. Don't like the way it handled set-up from the factory. Had V-max 4 with m-10 before and it was more predictable than this Warrior. Thanks again we'll let you know.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
rick72796srx said:
There is still just as much down pressure on the skis, reducing the spring preload just acts to lower the front of the sled closer to the snow (lower COG).
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Confused Warrior said:
I couldn't say at all if my suggestions would be good for a warrior. The main shock is completely different from a 121. You may do good to set the FRA lighter and use the clicker to control bottoming.
RX-1snow
Extreme
I just changed my suspension set up. I have 03 RX-1 with 1.25 lug and I weigh 190 lbs. Heres what I did...
~ FRA to max
~ main rear spring on minimum
~ front rear spring at stock
~ limiters with ~ 1 inch thread showing on top
~ control rod nuts moved up 1 line for more traction
~ ski springs slightly loosened
~ 6 inch woodys dooleys
~ 5 mm spacer on control rods
The only changes I made tonight was the FRA and the rear spring pressure to minimum.
I will ride on Sat. and post how I feel about this set up from stock.
~ FRA to max
~ main rear spring on minimum
~ front rear spring at stock
~ limiters with ~ 1 inch thread showing on top
~ control rod nuts moved up 1 line for more traction
~ ski springs slightly loosened
~ 6 inch woodys dooleys
~ 5 mm spacer on control rods
The only changes I made tonight was the FRA and the rear spring pressure to minimum.
I will ride on Sat. and post how I feel about this set up from stock.
nhrxrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Try it with the new settings, but if you don't like it, don't go back to the old settings yet. I had to reallyu play around with everything after I changed my FRA to max and spring to minimum. I had the best compramise with the FRA in the middle, and the spring a little over half way to firmest, then after changing the FRA like you did, I took a short ride and had to start over on all the rest of the settings. I had to loosen the limiter straps and bring the control rod nuts up some. Now the ride is far better than before, but I will make a few more fine adjustments to see if I can get it even better. I doubt it, its THAT good...but I'll try anyway.
Jim
Jim
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
I know I said it was a good suspension but...I swapped sleds with my friend who has a '00 ZR 600 and, well it's like riding on the couch I'm sitting on now :shock: No wonder lakercr put one in. If I can pull it off for cheap, I'll do it too :wink: But in the mean time, here is my setup (230# w/gear - aggressive):
front preload = stock
wear bars = 4" Roetins
straps let out to 1" of thread on top
center shock = 1/2" thread on top (can only tighten from here at this point :evil:
rear shock preload = #2 ramp
FRA = medium
rods = 1 notch from paint
absolutely floats over the studders (much improvement in these types of trails over FRA firm/pre-load min. setting) but bottoms more than I'd like it to on the rough stuff :evil: My back still hurts from Monday's ride :cry: . Trails in Kinross, MI were crap :evil: !
In a drag, Ultimatewarrior takes me by a sled & 1/2 - I have yet to race my buddy's Viper again, I think he's in for it, we'll see this weekend. I'm going to take the rear pre-load up a notch and add thinner spacers to the control rods.
Handling is very good with this setup.
front preload = stock
wear bars = 4" Roetins
straps let out to 1" of thread on top
center shock = 1/2" thread on top (can only tighten from here at this point :evil:
rear shock preload = #2 ramp
FRA = medium
rods = 1 notch from paint
absolutely floats over the studders (much improvement in these types of trails over FRA firm/pre-load min. setting) but bottoms more than I'd like it to on the rough stuff :evil: My back still hurts from Monday's ride :cry: . Trails in Kinross, MI were crap :evil: !
In a drag, Ultimatewarrior takes me by a sled & 1/2 - I have yet to race my buddy's Viper again, I think he's in for it, we'll see this weekend. I'm going to take the rear pre-load up a notch and add thinner spacers to the control rods.
Handling is very good with this setup.
nhrxrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have a skid frame from a '99 ZR700 which I bought off ebay. I got it for only a little over $200, and its complete and seems to be in very good condition. I put it in my ZRT800 for now, but I've been toying with the idea of putting it in the RX. Is it really that good of a suspension? Does anyone have any templates, measurements, or info about the alignment? It was hard enough to get it aligned properly in the ZRT tunnel, never mind a Yamaha!
Jim
Jim
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Talk to lakercr, laker was going to fax me one.
muskrat
Pro
Thanks Lazy. How much thread do you have showing on the limiter strap? I think I have to much. No wonder i felt ever stutter I hit last weekend in dah U P, and I thought it was my new 2.3 springs. Dah. Thanks for the great post, I've learned a lot this past year.
Muskrat
Muskrat
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I've got about 1.25" threads showing above the nut. Make sure to loosen off the center spring preload a whole bunch.
SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
OK...I weigh 210 without gear and tried these settings...as laid out.
I agree that the FRA to stiff and Pre-Load to soft works very well. Thank You for that tip.
The center shock and limiter thing however gave me a real tippy feeling again. Much more than stock settings...I will go back to 1" of thread showing on top for the limiters and tighten the shock back to stock to see how that works.
I will admit that the pre-load on #2 was too soft for me as I was bottoming out and I was not at the reccomended 50/50 setting on the transfer rods. I will experiement more but the ride is definately softening up a bit. I think we are on our way here.
I agree that the FRA to stiff and Pre-Load to soft works very well. Thank You for that tip.
The center shock and limiter thing however gave me a real tippy feeling again. Much more than stock settings...I will go back to 1" of thread showing on top for the limiters and tighten the shock back to stock to see how that works.
I will admit that the pre-load on #2 was too soft for me as I was bottoming out and I was not at the reccomended 50/50 setting on the transfer rods. I will experiement more but the ride is definately softening up a bit. I think we are on our way here.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
The center shock and straps work in conjunction with the front springs/preload. If you're not putting the front preload down low, don't mess with the center.
With the front springs preload set to zero, there isn't as much pressure down on the skis as it needs. To get the ski pressure where it should be, the straps need to be pulled down. When the straps are pulled down, the preload on the center spring increases to the point where it will cause a harsh ride. Decreasing the preload on the center spring allows the limiters to be sucked down without making the ride harsh. Getting the front end lower to the ground reduces the COG, which makes it possible to whip the corners harder.
With the front springs preload set to zero, there isn't as much pressure down on the skis as it needs. To get the ski pressure where it should be, the straps need to be pulled down. When the straps are pulled down, the preload on the center spring increases to the point where it will cause a harsh ride. Decreasing the preload on the center spring allows the limiters to be sucked down without making the ride harsh. Getting the front end lower to the ground reduces the COG, which makes it possible to whip the corners harder.
