freelheeler
Pro
03 rx1 with under the tunnel exhaust running at around 6-9000'
at just above idle the sled pops and backfires but at higher rpms it's running great? seemed to come on after adjusting the secondary and gearing down, plus there may have been some bad gas?? i've read alot about folks with this problem but no one seems to write back about what actually worked?? here's what i've tried
disambled TORS
used gas treatment
next steps...
new plugs
new fuel filter
clean the carbs
question...
should try adjusting the main jet i'm at 135 and the sled runs well at high rpms?
adjusting the needle?
spoke to the dealer and he thought maybe valve adjustment?? at 2000 miles???
at just above idle the sled pops and backfires but at higher rpms it's running great? seemed to come on after adjusting the secondary and gearing down, plus there may have been some bad gas?? i've read alot about folks with this problem but no one seems to write back about what actually worked?? here's what i've tried
disambled TORS
used gas treatment
next steps...
new plugs
new fuel filter
clean the carbs
question...
should try adjusting the main jet i'm at 135 and the sled runs well at high rpms?
adjusting the needle?
spoke to the dealer and he thought maybe valve adjustment?? at 2000 miles???
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
It sounds like your coils (spark plug caps) are grounding out to the head to me.
Try running the sled in the dark with the back of the sled raised and run the track at the speeds you are experiencing the problem while watching the spark show dancing around your coils.
The 03 coils were known to have this problem.
Good luck
Frosty
Try running the sled in the dark with the back of the sled raised and run the track at the speeds you are experiencing the problem while watching the spark show dancing around your coils.
The 03 coils were known to have this problem.
Good luck
Frosty
freelheeler
Pro
freelheeler
Pro
tryed checking the coils and didn't see the spark show frosty. I installed the new plugs and nothing i was sort of disappointed, however i was in the garage? how do you tell if the coils have been updated??
so with the coloration of these plugs could it be the sled is running rich?? again this is new being its a 4 stroke.
so with the coloration of these plugs could it be the sled is running rich?? again this is new being its a 4 stroke.
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
Check your pilotjets again - check o-rings (carb caps) - exhaust leaks.
Are your cv-slides moving freely?
Have you tried giving it some choke when it pops/backfiring - does it help or worsen the popping issue? That would help you find out if it's a lean or rich condition.
Are your cv-slides moving freely?
Have you tried giving it some choke when it pops/backfiring - does it help or worsen the popping issue? That would help you find out if it's a lean or rich condition.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Hum............ since this is something that just popped up I doubt it's a setup issue.
Plugs usually help alot on the way to finding a remedy for stuff like this.
Are one of the ball point pens looking springs that hold your needles in place perhaps fallen out of place?
What intake were you using again. I thought you took off the breadbox and put the stock airbox back on?
By the way, my buddy that bought Aaron's sled also took off his breadbox and put some Yamaha GYT blue filters on his sled and he's completley shocked at how much midrange power he has gained.
Ok back to the subject at hand.
Has your throttle cable slipped from its holder near your throttle?
Bad gas sounds like a real possibility.
Good luck buddy
Frosty
Plugs usually help alot on the way to finding a remedy for stuff like this.
Are one of the ball point pens looking springs that hold your needles in place perhaps fallen out of place?
What intake were you using again. I thought you took off the breadbox and put the stock airbox back on?
By the way, my buddy that bought Aaron's sled also took off his breadbox and put some Yamaha GYT blue filters on his sled and he's completley shocked at how much midrange power he has gained.
Ok back to the subject at hand.
Has your throttle cable slipped from its holder near your throttle?
Bad gas sounds like a real possibility.
Good luck buddy
Frosty
freelheeler
Pro
could this have something to do with it??? went thru the carbs last night and while inspecting all the connections i noticed this little issue, looks like a mouse to me! i'd noticed a little crew mark on the gauge pod when i'd purchased the sled, and figured since i'd gone thru most everything else that was the extent of the damage?? i was wrong! both fuel lines from the tank to the pump have rather extensive damage which actually leak and look like he or she was eating a cob of sweat corn. i'm looking for new fuel line today!
so this could cause air in the line correct which could be part of the problem? the other issue i'm having is the o-rings on the main jets are torn up pretty good i reinstalled the pieces and parts and will order new ones today. plus i cleaned all the jets figured it couldn't hurt. the air box is always a pain to seal correctly so it was good to reset it.
When i went to start the sled it wouldn't start?? so i popped the hood again and moved the fuel line around a bit and tryed again and it started right up. seems in certian positions fuel can move thru it??[/img]
so this could cause air in the line correct which could be part of the problem? the other issue i'm having is the o-rings on the main jets are torn up pretty good i reinstalled the pieces and parts and will order new ones today. plus i cleaned all the jets figured it couldn't hurt. the air box is always a pain to seal correctly so it was good to reset it.
When i went to start the sled it wouldn't start?? so i popped the hood again and moved the fuel line around a bit and tryed again and it started right up. seems in certian positions fuel can move thru it??[/img]
Attachments
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
Now you are getting somewhere. Make sure you have cleaned out all parts from the o-rings in your jets (espes. the pilot jets), floatbolws and carbs.
Check your fuelpump for water and culprit/hoseparts.
Check your filters in the pickup line inside the gastank.
Maybe it's my english skills, but you said you had to move the fuel around. Did you be any chance have to remove the gas cap when doing this? I was thinking of vacum in the gastank due to kinked venthose.
I would completly clean the carbs - slides and check the o-rings under the carb caps while your at it.
Good luck - hope you get her running smoothly!
Check your fuelpump for water and culprit/hoseparts.
Check your filters in the pickup line inside the gastank.
Maybe it's my english skills, but you said you had to move the fuel around. Did you be any chance have to remove the gas cap when doing this? I was thinking of vacum in the gastank due to kinked venthose.
I would completly clean the carbs - slides and check the o-rings under the carb caps while your at it.
Good luck - hope you get her running smoothly!
culvert
Expert
any luck on getting rid of the backfireing?
I'm having the same problem this year. everything is cleaned and cleaned again. bottom end gurgles and you can smell the fuel, top end plugs are nice and tan.
I'm running ECP with under tunnel exhaust and went from 162.5MJ which were black and looked like a x-mas tree when I pulled them. Now at 155MJ. Nice tan plugs but idle and bottom rich??
Also turned fuel screw 1 3/4 out. Was at 2 turns.
Guess next is needles settings.
I'm having the same problem this year. everything is cleaned and cleaned again. bottom end gurgles and you can smell the fuel, top end plugs are nice and tan.
I'm running ECP with under tunnel exhaust and went from 162.5MJ which were black and looked like a x-mas tree when I pulled them. Now at 155MJ. Nice tan plugs but idle and bottom rich??
Also turned fuel screw 1 3/4 out. Was at 2 turns.
Guess next is needles settings.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Weird, I have the same setup with ECP filters and an under tunnel exhaust with 160 mains and my fuel screws are two turns out. Luckily, I haven't had any issues just yet but I do have a Holtzman ATACC on my sled that may be helping me out?
I do have the low end "burble" when I let off at low speeds but I have gotten used to it. I think my needles are in the stock positon again after raising them for a while. If I remember right when I raised my needles the burble got better, now I have to wonder why I dropped them back to the #3 positon?
Maybe the guts of your pipe has blown out and the back pressure is all wrong?
Frosty
I do have the low end "burble" when I let off at low speeds but I have gotten used to it. I think my needles are in the stock positon again after raising them for a while. If I remember right when I raised my needles the burble got better, now I have to wonder why I dropped them back to the #3 positon?
Maybe the guts of your pipe has blown out and the back pressure is all wrong?
Frosty
freelheeler
Pro
update-
new plugs
cleaned coils
new gas lines
new o-rings on the main
cleaned carbs
reset airbox
backfiring has gone away, however i still have a bit of the burbles at low rpms but nothing like before.
sled is running really well, thanks
new plugs
cleaned coils
new gas lines
new o-rings on the main
cleaned carbs
reset airbox
backfiring has gone away, however i still have a bit of the burbles at low rpms but nothing like before.
sled is running really well, thanks
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
After all that work have you synched your carbs?
It smooths out the idle incredibly.
Frosty
It smooths out the idle incredibly.
Frosty
freelheeler
Pro
NO! that sounds like more work...
well i had them synched at the beginning of the season by the local dealer, a few hundred bucks later and not much to show for it! i'm still bitter!
i've never synched carbs, so i must ask what's the best way? the burble is light and if this helps tune it out that'd be great! i'll take a look at the manual this evening as well.
thanks
well i had them synched at the beginning of the season by the local dealer, a few hundred bucks later and not much to show for it! i'm still bitter!
i've never synched carbs, so i must ask what's the best way? the burble is light and if this helps tune it out that'd be great! i'll take a look at the manual this evening as well.
thanks
freelheeler
Pro
okay i'll synch the carbs
i've had the sled out a few times since my last post and it's running real strong the burbles are still around sometimes but not real noticeable.
i'd purchased a set of 'sliders' ice scratchers has anyone been using them? in about 200 miles i've lost one and they replaced it. the next ride the tip pulled off the cable? i'm still forming my opinion.
i've had the sled out a few times since my last post and it's running real strong the burbles are still around sometimes but not real noticeable.
i'd purchased a set of 'sliders' ice scratchers has anyone been using them? in about 200 miles i've lost one and they replaced it. the next ride the tip pulled off the cable? i'm still forming my opinion.
BlgsRX-1mtn
TY 4 Stroke God
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- '03 RX-1 Mountain LE
freelheeler said:
I use holz racing sctatchers just for the main trail ride to/from the parking lot and from town to the side trails. Once on the side trails (daisy/lulu; they allways go up). I have ran three seasons now on that set of hyfax (standard cheap $15.00 each ones) and still have life left in them.
As for the carb synch; if brnadon synched tham; you should be good unless you used a screw driver to turn the linkage when re-installing the throttle cable. I did that once when I jetted for the SC and it knocked tham out of sync.
Jim
